56220TBWW General Electric Washer - Instructions

Open back cover and found that drain pump had a bad seal. Took it apart and bought new seal some what same size. Put everything togather and start washing clothers and wife complained that it became wost the before. When on line and found pump and price was just right to take a risk. Ordered on sunday and got ups tuesday.
Replaced pump on Sunday and leak was gone and wife was happy.

------Got chicken and beer that Sunday--------------

First I pulled off the front panel using a flat blade screwdriver to get it started. Then I could watch what happening as I tried starting the washer. When I put the dial to the Rinse Cycle and pulled the dial to start the washer, it would start to run for about 5 seconds and then stop. I tried this several times and the same thing happened. I noticed the water pump located in the front lower right hand corner was not running. It would only hum. I drained the tub by holding the wash machine drain hose into a bucket. If I held the hose down toward the floor, the water would flow freely out of the hose and into my bucket. As the bucket filled up I just raised the hose, emptied the bucket and repeated the process until the tub was empty. Sure saved time over trying to empty the tub by bailing the water out with a can. After the tub was drained I removed the two hoses from the pump and then the two mounting bolts and the pump was out. I bench checked the pump with an electric cord and it stilled just hummed. I knew for sure then the pump was bad.

I then ordered a new pump from PartsSelect.com. I entered my wash machine model number and PartsSelect gave me a picture of the replacement pump. I was a little worried that it did not look the same as my old pump but I ordered it any how. The night I got the pump I installed it in about 30 minutes. No problems, it just worked like a charm. Thank you PartsSelect.com I will definitely use you for all my appliance repairs in the future. I know there will be more.

1) Unplug empty washing machine
2) Remove switch panel with star screw driver
3) Gently remove ground, two prong connector, and the water tubing from the water level pressure switch
4) From the front of the washing machine switch panel, pull water level switch knob straight off
5) Apply pressure to tin metal middle that holds the pressue switch in place so that the pressure switch can be rotated out of switch panel
6) Twist pressure switch off of the switch panel clockwise (from the front of the washing machine)
7) Set old pressure switch to the side
8) Place new pressure switch in tin groves and snap into place (the middle tap that you applied pressure to lock the pressure switch back into place)
9) Connect ground, two prong connector, and the water tubing to the pressure switch
10) Close washing machine panel and screw in all of the star screws
11) Push pressure switch knob back onto the pressure switch after aligning the hole to the rod

removed washer front panel, top panel to access the water fill spout and hose. Disconnected and replaced.
personnel at part select were very knowledgable about detailed part and the overnight service was right on time.
I would recommend part select for your next appliance parts needs.

turned off the water and removed the hoses. Then removed the screws that held the back plate (that contains the knobs). removed the two screws holding the water valves and the hose to the washer. replaced the valve and then reassembled the rest.

The hose has a tapered end that fits in a tapered hole in the back of the washing machine.When insalled the first time,the joint leaked badly.My solution was to coat the hose end and the interior of the hole in the back of the washing machine with silicon sealant;let it set up for a few minutes and install the new hose.This solved the leak and the hose seems to be working fine now.

Took front of washer off,found that all of the straps were broke ,removed two small bolts from each strap pulled plastic support from from broken strap and put it in new strap,put plastic supported end of strap in first put bolt in and mounted other end to drum,easy job just about any one with common since could do it.Got to go laundry to wash :-)

After reading all the repair info and reviewing the diagram for my wash machine on this website I was ready to tear into my washer. I removed the front panel and lid to access the tub, pulled out the plastic agitator and revealed the broken inner base hub. The base hub was cracked half way around causing the inner tub to drop down and drag on the outer tub, making the washer sound like it was coming through the wall on a spin cycle. I then unbolted the plastic cap and removed it revealing the hub nut. The most valuable piece of advice in the repair info was abouthe hub nut being a laft hand thread (clockwise to loosen)and that it was on really tight and hard to remove. I put a short 8" pipe wrench on it, because of the lack of clearance in the tub, and hit it with the handle of a all steel hammer to break it loose. Unbolted the balancing straps (4) on the plastic top rim cap that holds the tub in place, unsnapped and removed it, then carefully pulled out the tub. I also had to unscrew the the control panel to reveal and remove the 4 screws holding the fill tube brace so I could push it back to remove the tub. I then took the inner tub outside and took it apart, 3 parts. The top plastic rim, the tub, and the broken base hub that are held together with torx screws. Then it was cleanup time, very dirty on the inside, used a garden hose, scrub brush, sponge, and soap. Cleaned up the hub nut threads with a wire brush and then the outer tub withe a sponge and shop vac. When the base hub broke it caused the inner tub and outer tub to rub together making a groove and plastic shards on the bottom of the outer tub that I had to scrape and sand smooth. A shop vac an absolute necessity in getting all the grime and plastic crumbs out of the outer tub so they don't get in and clog the pump. I received the replacement parts in 2 days! Reassembled in reverse order and everything worked great! Not a bad project at all when you know what to expect, thanks to Part Select.com.

Removed knobs, removed cold and hot inlet hoses,removed top cover, removed output hose, wire plugs, and three screws and replaced the valve.

the repair was really easy. All I did take down the control panel, disconnect the wires, pop out the switch, and blow through the air hose. I didn't realize what a simple machine it was.

turned washer on side to get at the bolts holding motor. loosen bolts. remove flexable basket for water pump or one end of it. slide motor to loosen belt. remove and replace belt. use large screwdriver on motor to hold tension on belt while tightening nuts. hardest part was getting clamps back on the rubber basket.

I noticed the belt was off, first, then pulled it back on. Washer worked, but very noisily, as belt continued slippage. I bought new belt after reading how to repair, then when it arrived, I read how someone installed it without having to remove bolt, etc. I tried and succeeded. It agitates just fine, but stalls when spinning. It's like the belt is too tight, now. i am gonna try rotating the rotating parts to see if that will help loosen it.

Top panel was exactly what I needed and fit perfectly. To replace the top panel I first unplugged power. Removed control panel on top of machine. Removed front panel by placing a putty knife under front corners and pushing down on front panel. Removed two screws holding top panel to frame. Removed lid switch from top panel then removed lid from top panel. Lift up front of top panel and slide out of cabinet. Replaced new top panel in reverse order. The only thing I overlooked when ordering top panel was the plastic bumpers and rubber guides for the lid. Had to remove old parts from old top panel and use them. Overall job took about 45 minutes.

Repair went good, only wish i had bought a new tub seal, washer, an split ring....but i managed to save the original ones an it seems to be working like new again! thanks Partselect!!!!

Originally my water level sensor was broken. When I was repairing that, I noticed that the dampening straps were broken. Replacing them was easy. The hardest part was remembering how to open the top. I just searched the internet until I found the answer. I can't remember it all right now, but the key was to slide a putty knife in between the top and the front to pop open the body.