52750 General Electric Washer - Instructions

Followed your website repair guides and the great belt replacement video.

Other parts used were; front lower basket seal, dryer seal, and dryer drum belt.

Had no problems except for keeping the drum belt idler pulley tension spring in place. Used the rear access panel to solve this issue.

John H.
Palm Desert, CA

First, I unplugged the washer then removed the front panel to the washing machine, then the pump cover, then the two hoses connected to the pump, draining them into a small bowl. I removed the ground wire and electrical connections.

Then I removed the two bolts holding down the pump and removed it. I had to pivot the hose connections on the pump to match the old one. Once I did this, I removed the hold-down bracket from the old pump and installed it on the replacement pump.

Getting the hoses clamped back on the new pump was a challenge, and I finally used an automotive clamp on the rear hose. Once the hoses were connected, I bolted the pump back in, reconnected the power and ground connections and replaced the cover.

Overall, it was a fairly straightforward installation and the only challenging part was the hose clamps.

I removed the top cover and the back cover to install new belt.
Once i put new belt i discovered that the pulley was also broken so now i have order the pulley so that i can complete the repair

Ordered this part to replace a drain hose that had been cut short on the washer. Installation was straight-forward. Removed the two front screws to access the cabinet. Locate the drain hose and remove with a pair of pliers. Install the new part and attach the clamp with the pliers just like removal. Took about 15 minutes.

Don’t do like I did and undo the drummer from the back of that thing pulled off the bearing

had a great video to follow, made it easy to install.

Follow YouTube "how to change dryer's belt" some video is very clear.

good replacement procedure on you tube.

the pulley spring took so much pressure to hold it down it took 3 men and a boy to hold it and place it in position to to get the belt on. Also there is not enough room to get your arms and hands in without getting some small cuts.Ultimately I removed the screws in the back of the dryer and spread the side of the dryer out to gain proper access. It was an easy repair if the spring would not have been so strong.

the repair was completed with a new lint filter. easy in, the old one tossed out.....perfect/ i'm amazing!

First I replaced the timer, but dryer still did not start. took apart dryer, jumper out door and componet near motor to see what problem was and to be able to run dryer while opened up. Actually motor had seized up just enough to not allow motor to start rotating. Lubricated motor shaft and rotated motor for oil to work its way in. Tried starting again and motor started. Buttoned dryer back up and reconnected wires to appropriate places and started dryer again and again.Worked for 4 loads of laundry and still working for 3 loads on Wednesday. Working fine

Disconnected power, removed hoses, removed housing and pump. Re oriented drain pipes on pump to align with washer hoses (just twist collar and re set) attach foot bracket and secure to washer bottom. Attaching the hoses with the compression clamps was a bit of a problem until I used pliers to press the ends together and then an adjustable wrench to hold them tight. Slid on hoses and released clamps. Replaced electrical and secured pump cover. Done in about 15 minutes.

remove one hose clamp.pulled hose from back of washer.replaced with new hose in same procedure.best of all i had my new hose in two days.great serviceand inventory.

ordered the new pump,its a lot more heavy duty than the orginal.had to change the mounting bracket somewhat. the new pump mounted bythe bottom of the pump housing and theold pump mounted by the side of the pump housing. so, wnere the curve was in the mount, I used the bench grinder to cut the curve out to make a flat surface for the new pump to rest in ,also drilled two 1/4 inch holes in the mount for the bolts to mount the pump.

Disconnected power cord; lifted top using putty knife to open spring holds on the sides of the top; released front panel by removing screw from each side;removed old glide and glue; glued new piece in place; reconnected all parts and let dry overnight.

A caution to take care of sharp/rough edges when removing old felt and glide. Goof Off worked well enough along with elbow grease to remove the old glue. A stonger solvent may have worked better, but did not want fumes and residue in the area.

Fit of new glide was straightforward and fit well to the lower felt glide..

(Turns out that the squeak was primarily from the rear bearing that needed some cleaning and grease, but am glad to have replaced the worn front glide)