4GWGD4900YQ4 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

First time ever repaired anything let alone a dryer, I watch the video and followed instructions, was pretty simple, Works like a charm

I used a screwdriver to remove the old part and pushed the new part in with my fingers, it was very easy. If I could do it, anyone can. I was a lot cheaper then having a repair man come to house. I am very glad I found your site online, I will definitely be using your company again.

I removed the two screws holding the access panel, and removed the access panel. Then removed the lower air duct. I then checked the burner, The solenoid was not opeing the valve for the gas. I order the coils, in two day I had the coils and installed them. The dryer is working great.

After replaceing several parts including the thermostats the last part I replaced the coils were the defective part. I originally metered out the themostats and they appeared to be okay but since this was my first time I thought I might have been mistaken. It turns out the last part I thought it could be was the part that was defective. I will say that it is very simple to replace any of the parts involved. The hardest part was trying to open the dryer itself. But after having to do it 3 times, I'm now a pro. I also replaced the drum belt and since I had it open I also replaced the belf idler with a newer modified idler rolller.

Putting the belt back on is easy, but it helps to view the video or a picture to understand how the belt goes around it.

Unscrewed 4 screws,pulled off front of machine.Unscrewed 2 screws holding coils on,unplugged coils,installed new coils,plugged in coils,reinstalled 2 screws for hold down brace.Reinstalled front cover,plugged dryer into outlet(remember to unplugged dryer before working on it).started up,instant heat,works great.thanks Partselect for helping me out!!!

I raised the top of the dryer, removed the front, the belt and the drum. Slipped off old rollers, installed new ones and new tensioner. Reinstalled drum and belt, bolted front back on and closed the top.

Removed top and front of dryer then drum and followed the instructions in the package. It was a real simple procedure. I did additional cleaning while the dryer was disassembled.

I lifted the top of the dryer and removed the front panel. I removed the drum exposing the drum rollers. I replaced the rollers and reassembled the dryer. The exploded views on the web site made it easy to see what to do.

My dad was ready to spend $2000 on a new washer/dryer (he has to have a matching set!). Anyway, his dryer would not generate heat. A google search turned up partselect.com, which walked me through the procedure to see what we needed.

It turned out to be a simple to replace $25.00 part! The dryer is drying as if it was brand new. Saved $1,975. Hehe.

Thanks, partselect!

Braced dryer drum with a block. Removed the two rollers one at a time by using a screwdriver to pop off the triangular clip. Slid on new rollers. Would have been easier to remove the drum out the front instead of bracing it. Installed new idler pulley and belt. Dryer is 25 years old and sounds like a new one now when running.

checked all the thermostats and the heating element all good had continuity checked the red wire from the timer to the element and it was not sending 120v to the element consistently ordered the timer and replaced in 15 minutes had my dryer heating and drying clothes
parts select had all the wiring diagrams on my model and a how to do video made it easy peasy

Getting to any of the parts in the Maytag dryer is easy. Tip the dryer back and slide a 4 x 4 block under the front edge. You remove the whole front panel after you remove two screws at the bottom corners of the front panel. You need to tip the dryer back to get a screwdriver on the screws. Swing the front panel up to release the top of the door panel from the top. Watch the short wires to the door switch. Unhook the door switch wires and move the front panel out of the way. The timer on the top is accessed by re-moving two screws along the top edge. There are four screws. Remove them all and tip the top of the front panel forward. You then see that two screws hold the panel and the other two screws just hold the trim.

The dryer started normal. The drum motor run when the start button was operated. The fluff cycle operated normal to indicate the timer motor was OK. On the dry cycles, the igniter heated up. The gas came on. The dryer run for some period of time and then the flame went off. The thought was that the low temp cycle thermostat sensed the dryer was hot and thus switched over to time the cycle to its end. However, the low temp cycle thermostat tested good with a meter when the sensor was removed from the dryer and heated with a light bulb. Burnt contacts in the sensor were a possible problem. I also though the radiant sensor may be bad and not recycling after it got hot. After time, the igniter would cycle on but the gas flame would not come on. I thought the radiant heater might not be tripping the secondary coil on the gas valve. The gas valve coils tested good. I was checking them cold after the dryer had cooled down. I ordered a number of parts.

I got lucky and did a test on the coils while the dryer was still hot. One of the coils in the dual booster holding coil was going open when hot. When cold it had enough continuity to let the gas valve cycle on once. After the coil got warm it went open and shut the gas valve off. When the coil did cool off, it again had continuity. I was about ready to trash the dryer when I finely found the problem. I am happy I persisted and worked the problem through to a solution. I purchased several extra sensors but saved money in the long-run. I rate this problem at the high end of complexity for the do-it your self home owner to solve. The problem was an easy fix once the real problem was found. Only 4 screws and 3 push on wire connectors (two were on the front panel for the door switch).

Replaced the thermastat first, then the cutoff switch, still the same, I then replaced the thermister, and still have the problem.

Checked four thermocouples all showed continuity with my multimeter so they were all good. I'd read that the coils commonly went out and that these were the symptoms. Hey, it's very simple in there. Not much else could be wrong. I had a Maytag repairman come out. At first he said the problem was a blocked vent. I knew he was wrong. Then he said one of the thermocouples went out. It was $80 for him to come out. It turned out that his second diagnosis was wrong too. To repair the dryer by Maytag would have cost me $240. I gave him $80 and bought the coils for $37. They are EXTREMELY easy to replace: two screws held a bracket that held two coils. With the bracket off, I took off the old coils and slid on the new ones.

removed the catch and the pin and replaced it. We were sent a couple different sizes so we tested the one that looked like the closest match. I think the pin was made with different thicknesses of metal. Worked great and saved us from having to get a new dryer!