42000129 General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Replacing the rack was a "no-brainer". I simply removed the plastic keepers on the ends of the roller racks with a screw driver, pulled the old one out, slid the new one in, and then replaced the keepers with pliers. It couldn't have been easier.

I took the inner door panel off as described by others on this website, cleaned out all the gunk left by 27 yrs of use, and replaced the door gasket and tub baffles. A Phillips-head screwdriver was required to remove the door panel, but no tools were required to replace any of the parts I ordered. I didn't find it necessary to soak the ... Read more door gasket in warm water as it was pretty flexible right out of the package. I recommend stretching the gasket slightly while pressing it into the groove, particularly around corners, or it will end up being too short at the end. The rinse aid tank had also been leaking Jet-Dry for a long time, so I cleaned that mess up as well and tried to replace the tank. Unfortunately, the new tank did not fit my model of dishwasher even though this website and GE's stated that it did. The shaft on the tank that pokes through the inner door panel to the inside of the dishwasher was too short because >2 mm of it was taken up by a thick rubber washer and a hard plastic collar (fused to the shaft to hold the washer in place) that had not been part of my original rinse aid tank. PartSelect was very good about refunding me for the incorrectly identified rinse aid tank and stated that they would contact GE about correcting this error on their website as well. I therefore cleaned up my original rinse aid tank, rinsing out all Jet-Dry residue inside it, and put it back into the inner door panel. I researched this part and found that GE has redesigned it twice since my dishwasher was manufactured in 1985 -- my original part is no longer available anywhere. So, I will just not use Jet-Dry and will maybe upgrade to a dishwasher powder that includes rinse agent (e.g., Cascade Complete). Replacing the gasket and tub baffles and cleaning up my original rinse aid tank stopped the leak for less than the cost of a repairman's service call and diagnosis fees -- it would have cost me 3X more if he had provided the parts and done the repairs! Replacing my dishwasher was out of the question as they do not make them like they used to (i.e., no microchips or motherboards to fail in a few years) -- this is the first problem I've had with my dishwasher in 27 years! As a side note, I also learned from my research that my front door panel insert is reversible. I was able to remove a side trim piece, slide out the panel, and turn it over so the color is now white rather than the outdated almond. It's like I have a brand new dishwasher that is ready to go for another 27 years.

I ordered parts before opening. My theory was to have the parts so that the dishwasher was not apart for longer than necessary, in the hope of avoiding the wrath of momma bear who just wants a new one... Once I opened up the door I realized the spring for the main lever arm had broken its mount. I drilled a new hole and reattached the ... Read more spring. I did not need any parts. However, the original parts corresponding to the three parts I ordered were all beat up and brittle, so I was happy to replace anyway. I did not even explain, she is happy the cup looks new and is happy with the dishwasher. It even says Cascade on it, almost like an upgrade :). If your cup does not latch I would order the three parts I did and also order the lever spring. It was very corroded after 30 years, so I would have replaced if I purchased it. Next time.. :)

1. Remove access panel under door. 2.Shut off hot water.3. Shut off electric to washer.4. Disconnect water line from water inlet valve.5. Remove small outlet water line from valve. Replace valve & reconnect. OR !!! 1.Take solenoid valve & bracket off of original inlet valve 2. Pull out white plastic diaphragm cover. 3. Remove diaphragm & ... Read more clean out water holes with a pin. 4. Reassemble valve. 5. Reinstall original water inlet valve & save $27.00

First shut off the Power and Water to Dishwasher, removed from under counter, removed sump screen and retaining clamp from sump housing and then loosened seal from inside dishwasher cavity. Upon removal I went in search of a replacement part and found Parts Select on the web, entered my model and make at there web site and found the part ... Read more I needed, I could verify the size by the easy picture on a one inch tile background for the dimenision . I called in the order since I wanted overnight service, I received the part and after cleaning the area where it goes I proceded to put things back together, this took about a hour and a half and the dishwasher is back in service

1) Remove kick plate of dishwasher.
2) Release DW from cabinet.
3) Slide DW forward 6-8" to reveal existing door springs.
4) Lift spring off of door and release spring from frame. Reattach new spring.
5) Slide DW back to original position; reposition to cabinet, and reattach kick plate.

The shaft pulled out of the housing when I tried to get the push nut off. I had to take the pump housing out in order to get the shaft lined up with the valve when reassembling. In the end, the shaft had so much slop that no seal could keep it from leaking. Time for a new dishwasher.

First I removed the old gasket and seals. I replaced the seals and had difficulty getting the gasket to seal at the bottom of the door. I had to remove the seven door screws and was able to manipulate the gasket. Do not lift the inside door cover too far, as the latch may become disengaged, thus creating another problem to repair. I d ... Read more id this repair myself (female).

After removing the dish rack I unscrewed the center riser spray by turning it Clockwise and I removed the lower spray arm. I then removed the lower spray arm support using a phillips screw driver and replacer the worn water seal. I reversed the process and reassembled the sprayarm and center riser spray. Job completed!

Unscrewed old spray arm by hand. Screwed new one on by hand. Two minute job. New arm and tower were better than old one. Piece of cake at a very low price.

I received my dishwasher as a hand me down, my Aunt never liked the way it cleaned. After it sitting for about 2 years i installed it in my house and found that it leaked all the time from where motor shaft went into the pump housing. After disassembling everything and scouring parts sites online, I found the parts, ordered them. 3 days ... Read more later i had the parts, and the next day I had a fully functioning leak free dishwasher.

The hardest part was figuring out how to disassemble the door to replace the baffles and door gasket. No pictures or clues on the internet or my owners manual. I figured it out myself and the rest was a piece of cake. When the 7 screws were removed, the door liner lifted right out and new parts fit right in.

first, I removed the screws holding the dishwasher to the countertop.Then I removed the dishwasher from under the counter. I turned the dishwasher on it's back and loosened the three hose clamps securing the water connections to the pump assembly. I then removed the electrical plug to the motor and the screw holding the support rod to t ... Read more he motor. Then I worked the loosened water connections apart and removed the pump and motor assembly.
Then I removed the hose clamp and plug from one of the orifices on the new pump, and aligned all of the water connections and wiggled the new pump assembly into place. I tightened the hose clamps, Installed the new screw and support bar to the motor, and connected the electrical plug. I then turned the dishwasher upright, reconnected the power cord, water supply and drain lines and started a wash cycle to check the new system for leaks. I found that the extraneous drain solenoid that came attached to the new pump was loose and rattling, so I secured the solenoid shaft and linkage to the pump housing with electrical tape to stop the rattling.

I simply detatched the broken old roller and snapped in the new one. It was very simple and I did not need any tools.

I opened the D/W door, used needle nose pliers to remove the old baffles. They come right out. I cleaned the area using paper towels and installed the new baffles. They just sit in the corners with nothing holding them. Simple job.