Models > 41790872992 > Instructions

41790872992 Kenmore Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

All Instructions for the 41790872992
46 - 60 of 444
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Burning smell, lots of hi-pitched squeaking
I got online and figured out exactly how to take off the front of the washer and then how to replace the belt. It was so easy. The part itself arrived much sooner than predicted. It fit perfectly and my washing machine is now running smoothly and quietly.
Parts Used:
Drive V-Belt
  • Heather from Stephenville, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
17 of 19 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Dryer would not ignite
Make Sure Dryer is off and disconnected from power! Also, beware of sharp edges on dryer parts and cabinet.
1) Popped-off top lid with flat-blade screw driver (Insert screw driver in joint between top and front of dryer above door) Spring clips are all that's holding top on in front
2) Unplugged plastic electrical connector located just along the top-right side of dryer
3) Removed one sheet metal screw located about 8" down from top on either side of dryer - total of two screws
4) Pull front of dryer back and pull up at bottom of dryer (Remember that when you replace front you will have to make sure plastic bearing surfaces on dryer tub are centered back in cut-out on front panel. Plastic tabs fit inside the cut-out or else you'll ge a swishing noise when tub rotates)
5) Set front panel to side
6) Flame sensor is located on the left side of the burn chamber sheet metal cover. It has a red and white wire with flat connectors that must be pulled off. Note which color goes to what terminal
7) Unscrew fastener. Note: this screw/fastener needs a non-standard driver to get it out. I have a variety of other drivers beyond phillips/flat types and non of them worked.
8) I ended up using a pair of pliers to just work it out from under the screw. I bent it, as it has a tab that slips in along left bottom edge of burn chamber cover.
9) Finish taking screw out by hand
10) Put new flame sensor in by inserting tab on bottom first. Then, screw in fastener to top of sensor bracket and reconnect wires. White on top and red on bottom terminal.
11) Replace front panel with door by placing in tabs on bottom front of dryer. Again, make sure plastic bearing surfaces are inside of circular flange on front panel
12) Make sure to reconnect plastic cable connector. Note: I added a tie-wrap because it looked like the connector might rub against drum. There are some holes through which you can run the tie-wrap
13) Replace the two sheet-metal screws
14) Push top down so spring clips re-engage with dryer body
Parts Used:
Flame Sensor
  • David from Murrieta, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
17 of 20 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Stopped agitating versus level washer feet/leg
My washing machine stopped agitating and spinning and I couldn't afford a repair man...plus I wanted to exhaust any obvious problems first. One of the leveler feet had broken years ago. Since I luckily had determined via reading other posts that the agitator won't work if the cycle safety switch is not functioning right, I thought the safety switch might need to be changed but after careful thought, I decided to order a new levelling leg first because maybe the broken levelling leg was shaking the safety switch so it wasn't connecting right. Once I received the leg overnight, I flipped the washer on its side and had to drill out the old leg. It was a little tricky because of how it broke, but the drill worked. I flipped the washer back up, leveled it with the new foot, and the agitator was miraculously working again...just like new. I didn't need the safety switch. Thanks to partselect.com for having the details of my washer parts to study up on and get me the right part so quickly. I saved myself alot of money.
Parts Used:
Screw-In Plastic Leveling Leg Levelling Leg Pad
  • Sandra from Denton, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
17 of 20 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Motor was overheating and kickins off during the cycle
After turning the water off and removing the hoses,I pulled the top off by removing the 2 screws from the clips in the back and popping the 2 spring clips in the front. I then removed the 2 side screws left and right to allow room for the sides to move out of the way of the motor. The back panel is spot welded so the panels stayed connected. I then removed the 2 screws from the water overflow guard on the motor. Once removed I unplugged the wire harness from the motor. After that the 4 nuts were taken off of the bottom of the motor. I pushed the belt tensioner in and pulled the motor out. Install the motor making sure the nuts are tight as they can work loose from vibration.
Parts Used:
2-Speed Motor with Pulley
  • Helen from Madison, OH
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
18 of 23 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
No Cold Water
Checked problem on-line and discovered it was the water inlet valve. Matched the part on part select. Com. Finding the part was very easy. Part select had a grid behind the picture to help determine the size and pictures from all sides. Removing the old part, matching it, and replacement took a total of 30 minutes. I now have clean clothes.
Parts Used:
Water Inlet Valve
  • Mark from Pittsburgh, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
16 of 18 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
water continued to flow into machine during spin cycle
After moving machine to an area that allowed easy access to the unit, disconnected the water supply hoses from the inlet valve.
Removed the two screws that keep the back in place, removed the clips that keep the top in place, moved the top over far enough to get the valve out. Removed the screw that keeps the inlet valve in place, disconnected the power supply to the valve, Pulled valve out in order to remove the water outlet hose. Repalced with new vale, and reversed order to install. Works just fine now.
Parts Used:
Water Inlet Valve
  • Howard from Lcolnton, GA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
16 of 18 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
no heat in the dryer
unplugged the dryer, discontected the sensor and unscrewed the bracket, replaced the new one and put the connectors back on, screwed the bracket back on and that was it. Very easy fix for a female who does not do much of these sort of repairs but learning.
Parts Used:
Flame Sensor
  • Joy from Lakeville, MN
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
16 of 19 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Washer machine would fill up with water and not spin and drain
Happened to slam the lid by mistake and the washer started spinning. Recognized the lid lock was working haphazzardly. Also, there was a burning type odor coming from the switch. So I lifted the lid top and disconnected the switch from the lid by unscrewing 2 screws and 4 wires. When I received the new switch, I reinstalled it with 2 screws and reconnected the 4 wires.
Parts Used:
Washer Lid Lock with External Safety Switch
  • MARC from MANALAPAN, NJ
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
18 of 25 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
I had to replace a knob for my dryer
The part number was on the knob itself. I did a google search and found it at this site and ordered it. My initial surprise was how fast i received the part. I installed it in about 3 seconds and it's been fine ever since.

I will definitely use this site again. Easy part identification and FAST SHIPPING!
Parts Used:
Timer Knob
  • Tim from Newtown, CT
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
17 of 23 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Old Dryer drum veins degraded and broke down.
I opened the top of the dryer to gain access to the outside of the drum. Then I removed the screws holding the old drum veins in using the electric drill with the nut driver attachment. Then I positioned the new veins in place on the inside of the drum and replaced the screws from the outside of the drum to hold the veins in place. Then I replaced the top and was ready to go.

This is the third repair that I have done using parts from parts select. the other two repairs involved replacing electrical parts. Specifically thermostatic controls or swicthes. I am very happy with the parts and the diagrams provided on your web site without wich I would have had to replace my dryer a long time ago.
Parts Used:
Drum Baffle
  • Alfred from Loveland, CO
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
15 of 18 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Dryer Drum Squealing Loudly!
This unit is a stackable washer&dryer,so first pull unit away from wall atleast 4 foot. Unplug power cord,then take10 dagree front panel off then the control panel off and unplug the 5 connetors if your unit has that many,then lay panel asside. Take dryer door off,makes it easier when putting it all back together. Now take front panel off and the dryer lent tube,now just take the 3 center phillips head screws out and slide drum out. Pull upward on what they call the shaft which held drum on. Now these are the parts you should order. Belt,grounding ball clip,grounding ball,drum support bearing,bearing bracket,and most important part is the shaft. The shaft is ur insurance for the whole job. Use a good grease like white lithium grease and coat the shaft end and the drum support bearing. The grease will cut down on friction for a while,and re assemble the way you took apart. Reminder grounding ball goes behind drum support bearing not in front. Good luck and please vaccum.
Parts Used:
Rear Drum Bearing Kit
  • john from waynesboro, VA
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
13 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
agitator not turning on top, clothes not clean
ordered part from parts select, it was the wrong part,( all my fault) they refunded part upon return and sent the new part, the return was easy and prompt, new part arrived, 15 minutes wife was washing and happy again, and we all know, happy wife happy life, thanks part select!!!
Parts Used:
Dual Action Agitator
  • Scott from Palmyra, TN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Socket set
18 of 29 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
dryer was making terrible clunking noise when running
This is a stacker washer/dryer combination. Took off the back panel of the dryer, but found out the front needed to come off instead,to replace the blower wheel. This took more time than replacing the wheel. Was pretty easy to get to the wheel and replace. The center part had broken so replaced wheel and clamp. The push in fastner was broke, which held in the lint screen part. Was easy to install this. Dryer sounds as good as it did when it was new. It was very easy to find the correct part and shipping was overnight! Great service.
Parts Used:
CLAMP Blower Wheel Push-in Fastener
  • Marlene from Laurel, NE
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
14 of 17 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
the pump had died
First I removed the two screws that hold the pump in place. I then pulled the pump out and replaced it with the new pump.
Parts Used:
Drain Pump - 120V 60 Hz.
  • loudvik from glendale, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
15 of 21 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Motor fried after being submerged in water...
I pulled the old motor out of the bottom of the washer. After undoing the screws and taking off the belt. I threw the new one in and tightened everything up and put the belt back on and it worked great... Super easy to change a motor out and a lot cheaper than buying a new waher...

The best part was that it only took one day to ship to my house and I picked the cheapest shipping amount... I recommend this site..
Parts Used:
2-Speed Motor with Pulley
  • Jacob from Evansville, IN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
15 of 21 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
All Instructions for the 41790872992
46 - 60 of 444