41783 ((ASTESEU)) LG Washer - Instructions

There is a magnet at the bottom of the door which allows the door to be held ajar when the washer is not in use to allow the tub and gaskets to dry. A tab on the plastic housing which retains the magnet broke which allowed the housing to pull free of the door and stick itself to the machine preventing the door to close. Easy fix to replace the magnet was $18. Instructions were included in the box. Part number on the drawing was A165. PS3618292 Magnetic Door Plunger

Pull washer away from wall. Unplug cord and remove drain hose from receptacle. Remove 4 screws holding panel to rear of washer. Squeeze and slide back hose clamps on each end of drain hose and loosen center clamp with screwdriver. Remove old hose. Reinstall new hose in reverse order using existing clamps. Re-install back panel.

Just aligned and pushed in.

Pulled out the old plunger and inserted new one. Just have to make sure the tabs align with the slots.

Went to U tube found several good videos relative to the problem, suggest you do the same. Heavy rubber diaphragm seal retainer spring VERY difficult to expand, bought a replacement spring with less tension and it worked fine. Plastic clip at the back of the cabinet does not have to be removed. Squeeze it and it will unlatch to free the hose, The part supplied was an exact replacement for the original, it worked just fine. Good luck.

Wife called me and said the washing machine just flooded the Landry room. I looked at it and didn't see anything wrong. Took the top off and the back off and started looking for a leak, did not see anything. Took the front part of the washer apart thinking the drain hole was plugged up where the rubber boot is. It was ok after taking the big rubber boot off or whatever that is called i was not getting anywhere. I put it back together left the top and the back off. I turned the water on and started the washer on a quick cycle looking for a leak. I found the bellows at the inlet had a small leak fixed that and started the washer again. So what i found out was the clean out drain plug was not in tight letting water out as it was washing after i tightened it all was ok. So i did find a leak that was small that we never saw. The hardest part was putting that wire clamp on the rubber boot it took two people to do that.

From my research, I thought I needed to replace the Hall Sensor (also known as the Rotor Positioning Sensor). The Part Select site informed me that I might need to also replace the Rotor Assembly. The site said that I could not order just the Hall Sensor - I needed to order the Washer Motor Stator which would include the Hall Sensor. When I received the order, I found that the Motor Stator did not include the Hall Sensor. I found that I could order a part that matched the Hall Sensor I removed from my machine. I then ordered that part. I installed just the new Hall Sensor - the machine worked. I have returned the unused parts.

I followed the video -- to take apart and reversed the steps to re-install. It was fairly straight forward and corrected the issue.

Removed top panal found broken parts and pieces, replaced spring and plastic spring holder. Straightened out and reattached drum front boot.

Took front of machine off to access 2 shocks, put back together then removed panel in back to access third shock, watched YouTube video first so things went smooth

Unscrewed the old part; screwed in the new part and said a quick prayer - LOL!
The part worked great, but I wanted to mention how quickly I received the part!
I would definitely order from this company again!

Use just your finger to push it into place. VERY EASY

removed top and front. heater is at the base of the tub. the nut compresses the rubber seal and may take some wiggling to remove the old one.

I used another magnet to pull the old plunger out of the door and replaced it with the new part.

Could not do the repair. Partselect sent me the wrong parts even though I gave them the model number and the brand they sent me the wrong parts.