40441 - Instructions

replaced rack, no repairs required

popped old wheel off popped new one on
for the rack roller i took the ends off and slid old rollers off then slid new ones on.

lower rack took one min. take out old slide in new

upper rack a little tricky had to remove end caps on rack arms to slide rack out to replace rollers. end caps are not snapped in they have a lever in the track that is part of the cap if you twist it a little cap will slide off.
total time for this part 15 min.

1. Remove lower cover skirt.
2. Shut of water at undersink valve.
3. Unplug power cord or turn off circuit breaker.
4. Disconnect water supply line from fill valve.
5. Unplug the electrical connector from the valve.
6. Remove the 2 valve mounting bracket screws.
7. With loose valve in hand, rotate to gain access to allow release of outlet hose clamp for hose removal.
8. Remove brass fitting from old valve and install on new valve. Use teflon tape on the pipe threads only.

Install new valve by reversing the procedure.

Completely remove the door from the dishwasher - It's easier to work on this way.

First the spring tension is NOT that critical - the spring just needs to not be mangled and really out of shape. Unless someone has taken a pair of pliers to it, it should be o-k
to use. I even mangled up the slot in the lever with a pair of pliers to try and jeery-rig it and it still works fine - you MUST at least have some resemblance of a groove here for the spring to
catch.
1) hook the hook on the inside of the lever where the slanted groove is on the cam. (see your great diagram)

Put all the pieces together at this point, shaft,spring and lever

2) There are two sets of grooves that correspond to matching notches in both the lever and the dispenser shaft. Make sure these match up to one another.
3) Using a pair of hemostats or tiny pliers pull the other side of the spring clockwise - gently - until you can hook it on the stop that is on the inside door. There will be some
tension of the spring around the shaft to cause the hook to engage to the slot in the plastic lever.

[*]This is where MOST of my problems were at:

4) Test the dispenser door to make sure when you close it, it springs back up. It WILL NOT hold when the door is off.
[*][I was trying to get the dispenser door to stay shut while the door was removed from the washer - this will NOT happen]
5) If number four is happening above, attach the door to the dishwasher.

Very Important: The door will only stay closed when the dishwasher is in the OFF position. Otherwise it will spring open when you try to shut it, because it is suppose to because at this time
in the cycle the detergent would be dispensing - hence the door being OPEN and the door not latching.

Watched a short video to figure out to remove panels. After panels were off I removed as much as I could from the inside of the machine. This was not completely necessary however for an extra half hour it made inspection, cleanup and removal of tub housing out the front of the machine much easier. Once out, I split the two halves of the outer basin and sprayed the spider shaft with penetrating oil. Using a brass drift I did have to get a bit aggressive to drive spider shaft out, then I used a heavy metal punch to hammer out the bearings. For those who may not know using brass or a soft metal will keep from damaging reusable parts. At this point it was cleanup time, with dish soap I scrubbed the two halves of the outer basin and the wash basin itself then used emery cloth on the bearing casing and spider shaft. I am a firm believer if u take the time to cleanup properly things go back together much easier. At this point I began to reassemble, replacing tub bearings and seal, the wash basin then putting the two halves of the outer basin back together. I strongly recommend replacing gasket for the halves of the outer basin, for as much as it takes to get there it is money well spent to up the chances of a leak free system. Now with the wash tub back together it was time to reset the tub and hook everything back up. I skipped a lot of steps but if a person pays attention, takes pictures if they have to, even numbers lines with a sharpie it is a very easy repair. Very easy but very time consuming. I am DIY’er, in all I spent about ten hours over two days to do this job. Thus being said I am very particular spent a lot of time cleaning, scrubbing looking at as many wear points and checking for rubbed wires. Hope this helps someone out there, definitely not a strong writer or like doing it. Oh one other thing, I ordered the shocks on the bottom side of wash tub just because I guess not thinking they were bad just thinking I could help tune it up. Was surprised to find the old ones were completely shot, was glad I ordered new ones. After repairs, noise is gone and machine is quiet again. Thank you, your website is very easy to find parts and order.

Note: This procedure assumes replacement of both eyelet cables. It is recommended that both eyelet cables be replaced at the same time.

1. Using a Philips' head screwdriver, remove the four screws holding the lower front panel (below dishwasher door).
2. Remove the faulty eyelet cable(s) hooked into the springs at one end and the door hinges at the other.
3. Take the new eyelet cables and hook them onto the door hinge on either side. Ensure a secure fit.
4. Guide the eyelet cable around the spinwheel on one side and insert the hooks of the springs into the eyelets.
5. Pull on the springs and insert their hooks into the eyelets of the other cable, ensuring a secure fit.
6. Test the door by opening and closing it a few times to ensure the spring has tension.
7. Replace the lower front panel cover removed in step 1 with its screws.

First removed dishwaser from under counter so I could get to rubber connecter. It is located in center under dishwasher. I first needed to unscrew with wrench rubber connection at pump and and then the complete piece unscewed by hand from pump wash arm. I then just had to screw new rubber connector back on to bottom of dishwasher and re-attached at the pump. It was very easy to replace the rubber connector. I also replaced the dishwasher sump housing because it was made of same rubbber material and feared it was deteriorating also. I had to unscrew with wrench at pump as well and it just popped out from inside dishwasher after unscrewing screen inside dishwaser. Popped new piece in and screwed screen back on and reconnected underneath dishwasher back to pump. The rack roller wheel just popped right on. FYI: The wheel is actually 1.75 inches in diameter not 2 inches. I was worried it might be too big if it where 2 inches but it was the same size as the other wheels which was 1.75 inches. The hardest part of this job was getting the dishwasher in and out from under the counter. The good news is that most of these parts are standard and the replacement parts fit perfect.

Removed 7 screws holding "inner door" in place ( note: 2 bottom screws are different than the rest...keep separate).....remove rinse aid plug....press "tabs" inward to release rinse aid container. ( in this instance....the gasket had failed...which was "part" of the reason dishwasher was leaking during operation)

install new rinse aid container ...making sure that "trip arm" is positioned correctly........and press into place. ( Tabs should expand when container is properly positioned...creating a tight seal).....reuse old rinse aid filler plug.

Replace "inner door" cover....tighten screws.....

remove faulty tub corner baffles....place new ones in corresponding positions ( the baffles form a suction .....to stay in place....no adhesive needed)

Close door and operate as usual........no more leaks!

This is a super easy "no brainer"...that would have cost about half the price of a new dish washer ...had I hired a "professional" to do the repairs!!!!

Opened package from Parts Select.
Removed Silverware basket from package.
Opened Dishwasher.
Inserted Silverware Basket in rack.
Closed Dishwasher.
Discarded shipping package.
Told wife I fixed Dishwasher.
Sat down & had a beer.

The most difficult part was removing the dishwasher from below the counter. Once that was complete, I simply turned the washer onto it's front surface to access the pump easier. Simply disconnected the electrical connectors, loosened the three hose clamps holding the hoses to the pump. Lastly removed a stiff arm bracket holding the pump. Reversed the order to install the new one using a longer bracket provided with the new unit. Hooked up the electrical connections last and slid the washer back in place. The washer runs like new now and is not making noise. The replacement part was a perfect match.

for the top rollers you must remove thethe end cap. this was easy ,i placed a block of wood on the outside .placed the punch on the inside where the channel is pushed in to hold cap on. smacked it till it was pushed out far enough to remove end cap. new rollers simply snap on. very easy,

Apply large vice like pliers at base of the lower spray arm and not applying too much pressure to plier as this is an all plastic part and slowly turn counter-clockwise until entire spray arm is loose enough to lift out and install the new part in the reverse order.

Siimply removed the rack and replaced the wheel assembly. Very easy

Pull washer away from wall. Unplug cord and remove drain hose from receptacle. Remove 4 screws holding panel to rear of washer. Squeeze and slide back hose clamps on each end of drain hose and loosen center clamp with screwdriver. Remove old hose. Reinstall new hose in reverse order using existing clamps. Re-install back panel.