40318 (APBESEC) LG Washer - Instructions

Turn off circuit breaker. Turn off water at shutoff valve usually located under sink. Disconnect water line from dishwasher. Disconnect wires for the power feed from cord, Marked corresponding wires upon removal for re-installation. Remove 2 mounting screws that secure dishwasher to counter. Slide dishwasher out from counter and turn upside down. Use a blanket to prevent scratching of surfaces. Locate component on the back portion of the dishwasher. Unplug 2 wiring harnesses. My part was held on by 2 phillip screws. One in front, the other in the back along the leg bracket support. Once removed, reverse the order of removal. The i a You Tube video you can locate fr this removal. They said that you needed to release a clip to get the part out. Mine had a screw holding it on the back side. This difference cause about an extra 1/2 hour before I was able to figure out that there was NO clip that was being shown on the video. After that, The replacement went smoothly and we were having the dishes washed later that day.

I already had the top of the washer open, from previous disassembly to clean the front loader seal, and when I ran a trial load, noticed a small 1/4" tear in the hose bellows that attaches to the drum.

Very simple repair, remove the existing hose by loosening the clamps, paying attention to their orientation. Install the existing hose clamps onto the new hose, install and tighten the hose clamps.

5 minute job, if the washer top is off (which is also simple).

just put new part in very simple only problem was shipping yall used fedex went to 4 states and one state twice they finally gave it to USPS so it took almost 9 days to get here

1. Unplugged electric chord from wall.
2. Pulled washer out into open area to get behind it.
3. Turned off hot and cold water faucets
4. Used channel locks to remove hot water and cold water hoses from back of washer. Dropping hose into a bucket to catch water from hose.
5. Removed screws (Phillips screw driver) holding top to back of washer.
6. Pulled back on the top and lifted off washer.
7. Arranged new intake valve to mock location and setting of old intake valve.
8. Using Phillip screw driver, unscrewed old intake valve from back of washer.
9. Unconnected wiring from old intake valve. These were easily identified and not needed to mark left right center.
10. Using pliers, pinched hose clips and moved to middle of the hose. Did this for all 3 hoses.
11. Removed hose from old intake and connected to same location on new intake. Repeated for all 3 hoses.
12. Using pliers, pinched the clips and moved to the end of the new intake valve. Did the for all 3 hoses.
13. Using Phillips screw driver, screwed in the new intake valve where the old intake valve was located.
15. Inserted the wiring connects into new intake valve.
16. Reconnected water hoses back into washer machine (after inspecting and cleaning plastic strainer traps)
17. Turned on water faucets
18. Plugged in washer.
19. Ran an empty load for a cycle.
20. Did not fail.
21. Reattached top to washer. Laying down an inch from front and push forward to hear a click or lock. Then screwed in the 2 screws.
22. Pushed washer back into original location.

We have already performed 1/2 dozen loads.

replaced switch as shown in the video...Worked great

Could not do the repair. Partselect sent me the wrong parts even though I gave them the model number and the brand they sent me the wrong parts.

Pretty straight forward video located on YouTube. Video is about 30 min long. Watched it for an overview and did it myself being mechanically inclined.

I removed the tub. Thin included disassembling the washer and disconnecting various hoses electrical connectors to facilitate the removal of the tub from the machine.
Once removed, I separated the two halves of the tub and removed the metal basket to gain access to the bearings and seal.
Removal of the bearings was much harder than expected as they were very difficult to drive out of their pressed in mounting.
I finally was able to remove the bearings and fabricated a press using a piece of all thread and two steel plates to install the new bearings and seal.
I would not attempt to do this again with the proper bearing pullers and an official press to install the bearings gently without beating the tub housing.
This repair I feel is beyond the scope of your average DIY. The bearings can be damaged easily without the specialized tools to install the components.

First I had to elevate the washer on 3-5 gal. buckets in order to get underneath it and find the leak. Then I tried to repair the hose itself-which actually worked-but then the rest of the hose just started splitting everywhere I touched it. So I ordered the new part which took some careful comparing and examination online. But it was exactly the right part. You have to remove the top of the washer which is just 2 or 3 screws. Then taking the hose out was a little challenge-knowing I would have to put the new one back in carefully. Use Vaseline on rubber fitting at the end of the hose that connects to the washer. Need at least 2 people to raise the washer up in air to work on it.

I removed the top of the washer, pried the front control panel off (pull a couple of electrical connecters or just rest it on something), separated the tub sleeve from the front panel and then removed the front panel (two screws). To remove the pump - just remove a couple of hoses, two wires and slide it out of the clip below. Reverse the process to install. A little daunting if you haven't done something like this before, but easily do-able once you get past your fears. A service call would cost much more than the $60.00 it took to get the part to my front door. This worked out really great - my wash smells fresh once again and my wife has moved on to the next project on her honey-do list!

When to utube typed in my problem, very easy fix

It was easy to remove the rubber gasket to get at the door lock. Removing the door lock and replacing was simple enough, but getting the metal ring securing the gasket was cumbersome and challenging. This took most of the time.
However, after replacing the door lock it was obvious that this was not the problem. I had to remove the new part and replace the old one.
For future, it was the pob circuit board that was defective and had to replace it. Apparently this is not an uncommon problem as there are a number of UTube videos about this.This job was more involved and took me over an hour and resolved the issue.

Watched video on U-Tube , unplug power cord, turn off water, take top off washing machine, remove water hoses, unscrew parts, remove hoses with pliers, install replacement parts, put all back together. Does not leak any more !

With my wife's help( 2 shoukder surgeries ), pulled it forward, unplugged power source, turned Both water supplies off.
Removed two phillip screws from each upper ( plastic) holder.
Bumped top from front( works really well if you can use both arms,and with rubber gloves on for traction, or go to harbor freight purchase a glass suction cup) .
I marked ( with a sharpie) the solenoids/hoses,and wires, ( facing front ,right to left,1,2,3.), removed plugs,loosened clamps and pushed them back,gave each hose a twist,and removed them.
Took two screws 5/16 from the back that hold the valve assembly in out.
Removed old valve assembly, put new in place, reverse procedure for assembly. Once all is hooked up,and water dried, I plugged in,turned water on watched for two cycles( you need not stand over it,if it leaks you will know it) to double check, installed top,and we pushed it back in place.
Very simple to do,these washing machines are so easy to work on.
Now we enjoy a dry laundry room,and you can to.
??

Followed instruction from you tube. Removed gasket holder, then gasket by door switch assembly then replaced with new assembly!
I am a 63 woman and found this easy to do, with help from you tube guy.