3RMTW4905TW1 Maytag Washer - Instructions

Watched the video on your site for that part

The repair took about an hour. My wife told me the washer was so quite that she had to check and make sure it was running. It was like getting a new washer for less than 30 dollars. I've saved Part Select web site to my favorites and will use your company again.

There are youtube vids on how to get the thing open. I just wish I'd known the following: 1.remove agitator BEFORE opening the unit up and leaning it back (much easier to work inside the tube with it upright). 2. be aware that a free-floating part known as the skate plate can dislodge while the unit is on it's side/back. It is a generally triangular piece of flat-ish metal between the base of the tub and the top of the drive-train chassis. If it doesn't line up properly after you replace the parts you're going to get a noisy, clanking spin cycle the next time you run the thing (as I discovered).

The prooblem started with the hole in the bottom frame, for tub spring wore through, spring fell off, then a spring retainer worn broke in 2 releasing 1 suspention spring. All springs were about to fail, metal very thin at at the contact points. Drilled a new hole for the new suspension spring, replace all 3 brackets, worn also, springs, and retainers with a small dab of grease at the contact points. The new springs mad the tub more stable than before the failure, and silent when spinning or washing. Be careful to get the springs in the right direction, then the spring comes over the outside the brackets and retainers, other way they rub in spots. On this machine one was backwards from the factory 18 years ago, surely that accounts for more stable running.

Took the cabinet apart really easily with Part Selects helpful video. Removed old suspension springs by removing outer brackets on two of them and by using pliers on the third one. The tub spring was totally missing. Put on two new brackets and springs with the nut driver. Then stretched the third spring into place. Replaced the tub spring by stretching into place and then put cabinet back together. All done very quickly!!! Now it works perfectly and runs very quietly.

Follow the video to remove the cabinet. Did NOT have to lay the unit on its back in order to replace all 5 springs. These may be easily replaced with the washer standing upright. The back Suspension Spring was removed by using the access hole in the back of the washer to remove the screw holding the back spring bracket in place. Reassembled the cabinet per the video. Except for moving the washer around, this was an extremely easy repair. To facilitate moving the washer - use Moving PADS placed under the 4 feet of the washer.

Disconnected electrical and then water inputs on the rear of the cabinet. Tipped the machine onto its front. Found that a spring was unhooked and dangling from a bracket. I searched for the location to secure the spring and found a hole on the rear base of the cabinet rusted through. I drilled another mounting hole nearby, Since the original spring had also broke, I replaced it with a new one from PartSelect, securing it between its bracket and the new retaining hole. Returned the machine to its upright position, reconnected water input lines, then its electrical. The machine works fine once again.

Replaced the Outer tub. Of course, unplug first. Then open the lid, pop out the fabric softener dispenser, then take a socket and remove the bolt. to take out the agitator. Then once the agitator is out, take the lock nut off of the drive block with a punch and hammer. The spanner wrench tool would be perfect, but a punch and hammer gets the job done and in the real world where you can't buy special tools for every job, it's a good compromise. Once you get the lock nut off, take the Inner basket out and take the drive block off and inspect. The drive block is often a cause for a no spin situation as I found out... Look at a picture of a new drive block and if yours doesn't look like a new one, then it's worn and you need a need a new one. Once the drive block is removed wiggle the tub while pulling up and it should slide off. Then, make sure you put a new seal in the new outer tub and reverse the procedure. Don't even bother trying to re-use the old seal, it's not worth it and will probably leak after trying to pry it out of the old tub. I'd also recommend buying a new tube for the bleach dispenser because it's really hard to re-use the old one, but that's why I needed the pliers...It worked, but was quite difficult to remove from the old tub and install in the new one. That's a basic overview of how to do the repair. It wasn't all that hard, and it fixed the washer....after I replaced that worn drive block too :) It's like new again.