3RLBR8543JQ2 Whirlpool Washer - Instructions
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Agitator was locked up
I had a little difficulty at first, trying to remove the back of the unit. I then figured out that the repair was to be made by leaning the washer back and removing it from underneath. That became really easy as the bottom is open.I had to remove one nut and then the agitator from inside, then tilt the machine back, disconnect the two hoses from the pump, remove three bolts and lower the motor/ transmission assembly. Then I had to disconnect the motor from the pump ( with two snap on clips) and remove the broken plastic coupling. The new coupling had a metal insert that seems to make it stronger than the original piece.I then just reversed the procedure to put it together again and it worked fine. The part was shipped immediately and I got it sooner than I expected so I greatly appreciate that. Overall it went well, and by the way, it was my daughters washer and she was happy as well.Thanks, Roger
Parts Used:
-
Roger from Palmyra, IN
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
24 of 28 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Upper agitator not working
Read the directions in the repair kit first- a 7/16" socket and 10" extension is needed. Assembled new dogs on agitator "cup" and retainer, added marine(waterproof) grease to assembly washer, replaced bolt anyway and installed new o ring. Took less than 15 minutes-READ ALL DIRECTIONS FIRST!
Parts Used:
-
Eric from Saint Petersburg, FL
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
-
Tools:Socket set
23 of 25 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Washer lid switch worked sometime, sometime not
First, I'm so excited that this site exists because I knew that the problem was minor and I didn't want to pay the outrageous housecall price of a repairman. I read other customers' experiences on how they fixed the problem and that made it sooo easy! Basically unscrewed the screws on the far left and right on the top panel, folded it down toward front, unscrewed and unplugged the ground wire and replaced the part. Someone else had warned that the lid should be open to remove it and that was a huge time-saver. Thanks so much! The part was broken because of very poor design. The part actually worked fine, but the piece of thin plastic that held the part in place broke. Back to the drawing board Whirlpool.
Parts Used:
-
Jill from Alexandria, LA
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
23 of 25 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
My washer stopped mid-cycle and acted completely dead
I thought the click of the lid switch sounded different so I pulled the top console and tested it for continuity in both positions and found none. When I by-passed the switch the washer started up, so I knew what the problem was. There are four screws involved to remove the console which reveals the lid switch to the left side. There's a single screw for a ground wire but the switch itself is simply snapped in place after disconnecting the wire harness plug (must be done with the lid open btw).
I was lucky to diagnose the problem accurately so that the first thing I suspected turned out to be the problem!
I was lucky to diagnose the problem accurately so that the first thing I suspected turned out to be the problem!
Parts Used:
-
Jeff from Ventura, CA
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
22 of 23 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
In the spin cycle, drum would'nt spin unless assisted
First off unplug the machine then turned off H/C water supply and removed hoses, laid the machine on its side, removed 3 motor supp. bolts, loosened drum pulled out shaft and clutch assembly was right there. Also replaced coupling while it was apart. And to think, a svce company wanted 179.00 just to walk in my door and diagnose the pblm. Then, parts and labor were extra. Thanks for the help/advice, piece of cake!!!!!!!
Parts Used:
-
ANTHONY from NY, NY
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
22 of 24 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
agitator making noise and didn't want to turn
I unsnapped the top of the mechanism and removed the agitor assembly, (I had already put together the new one,) I just had to unsrew the old one to get it out and screw in the new one. This took me less than 10 minutes from start to finish. My husband was away for the week and this was left up to me if I wanted it done. So I (a female) decided that I would attempt it.
A Piece of Cake. thanks to Parts Select, I have a few more years with this machine. I was really hating to purchase a new machine. So for less than $25.00 with no service call "I Fixed It!"
A Piece of Cake. thanks to Parts Select, I have a few more years with this machine. I was really hating to purchase a new machine. So for less than $25.00 with no service call "I Fixed It!"
Parts Used:
-
Jo Anne from Crossville, TN
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
-
Tools:Socket set
21 of 22 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Cog stripped causing agitator to not turn
Removed top cap on agitator w/ flathead screwdriver. Removed protective cap over bolt and cog housing shaft. Used 7/16 deep socket w/ extension to remove bolt. Removed housing where stripped cogs were located. Cogs seated loosely in shaft housing no tools required to remove cogs. Replaced cogs in housing, made sure everything was lined correctly. re-inserted housing into shaft. ,screwed bolt, replaced caps and works like new.
Parts Used:
-
Vicki from Houston, TX
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers, Wrench set
22 of 25 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Upper agitator wore out
Pull the cap off of the top of the agitator.
Pull the plastic peice that is inside of the agitator up.
Use a deep well socket with an extension and remove the nut.
Pull the agitor off.
Follow the installation instructions that come with the part.
I saved $40 on the cost of the parts and the price to repair, which would probably cost about the same as the part I would have picked up at the local supplier. ~$90.
This is the first time I used the site. Two thumbs up. The price is right and the delivery is fast.
Pull the plastic peice that is inside of the agitator up.
Use a deep well socket with an extension and remove the nut.
Pull the agitor off.
Follow the installation instructions that come with the part.
I saved $40 on the cost of the parts and the price to repair, which would probably cost about the same as the part I would have picked up at the local supplier. ~$90.
This is the first time I used the site. Two thumbs up. The price is right and the delivery is fast.
Parts Used:
-
Caven from Richmond, KY
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
-
Tools:Socket set
20 of 20 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
tub off center, rubbing on outer tub in spin
turned the washer on it's back and shoved the tub to the side to release pressure on a spring ,pulled it loose and installed new one. this worked for the back two then turned washer on it;s face and repeted the process on the front spring.
Washer works great now.
Washer works great now.
Parts Used:
-
Charles from Rose Bud, AR
-
Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
-
Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
-
Tools:Pliers
21 of 24 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Slipping Spin clutch due to leaking gear-case seal.
1. Unplug the machine.
2. Turn the water off.
3. Disconnect the supply and discharge hoses.
4. Open the cover and remove the cap/cover of the agitator. Use socket wrench to remove the bolt securing the agitator. Pull up on the agitator and remove it.
5. Lay washing machine down on it's front. Remove the inlet and outlet drain hoses from the discharge pump.
6. Remove the 2 "faston" connectors from the motor start capacitor (looks like a D cell flashlight battery). Rock the connectors back and forth and pull gently until they come off. Polarity doesn't matter but to be safe make note of the positions.
7. Press the release clip on the motor connector and pull to disconnect it. Move the wiring harness out of harms way.
8. Remove the 3 bolt securing the motor and transmission assembly to the bottom of the tub. Pull the drive assembly out of the machine and place it on a suitable work surface.
9. Examine the tub brake assembly (still on the bottom of the tub), the clutch assembly (on the motor/transmission assembly you just removed and everything else for wear or damage. Now if you decide to proceed with repair continue with the following steps. If not you're done.
10. Remove the inverted cup washer from the agitator shaft of the assembly. Remove the "U" clip from the shaft and remove the clutch mechanism from the drive assembly. Make a sketch of the position of each of the removed components to aid in reassembly.
11. Now you can see the gear case cover and it's seal. If it is leaking (as mine was) you will need to replace it.
12. With the assembly level remove the bolts around the cover and remove the cover. Place the cover on a flat surface and with a screwdriver or punch drive the old seal out of the cover from the outside in.
13. Clean the seal area and check for damage. Clean the cover and transmission housing surfaces of old gasket material. There is a factory sealant available for reassembly but I chose an automotive RTF @ $4 vs $24 and it worked OK.
14. Installing the seal requires some tools and experience to done successfully. The right size sockets or piece of pipe, coupled with an arbor press or vise will get the seal in. The cover is delicate so if in doubt find a machine shop.
15. Support the outside of the cover on a hard surface and with a socket or short pipe length, PRESS (don't hammer) the new seal into the gear case cover.
16. Make sure there is lubricant in the gear case. Not overflowing but maybe 1/2 full when view with cover off on a level surface.
17. Apply some RTV sealant to trhe cover and install it. Tighten bolts evenly. Light torque (1-2 ft-lb).
18. Reassemble washing machine and test for leaks and proper operation.
2. Turn the water off.
3. Disconnect the supply and discharge hoses.
4. Open the cover and remove the cap/cover of the agitator. Use socket wrench to remove the bolt securing the agitator. Pull up on the agitator and remove it.
5. Lay washing machine down on it's front. Remove the inlet and outlet drain hoses from the discharge pump.
6. Remove the 2 "faston" connectors from the motor start capacitor (looks like a D cell flashlight battery). Rock the connectors back and forth and pull gently until they come off. Polarity doesn't matter but to be safe make note of the positions.
7. Press the release clip on the motor connector and pull to disconnect it. Move the wiring harness out of harms way.
8. Remove the 3 bolt securing the motor and transmission assembly to the bottom of the tub. Pull the drive assembly out of the machine and place it on a suitable work surface.
9. Examine the tub brake assembly (still on the bottom of the tub), the clutch assembly (on the motor/transmission assembly you just removed and everything else for wear or damage. Now if you decide to proceed with repair continue with the following steps. If not you're done.
10. Remove the inverted cup washer from the agitator shaft of the assembly. Remove the "U" clip from the shaft and remove the clutch mechanism from the drive assembly. Make a sketch of the position of each of the removed components to aid in reassembly.
11. Now you can see the gear case cover and it's seal. If it is leaking (as mine was) you will need to replace it.
12. With the assembly level remove the bolts around the cover and remove the cover. Place the cover on a flat surface and with a screwdriver or punch drive the old seal out of the cover from the outside in.
13. Clean the seal area and check for damage. Clean the cover and transmission housing surfaces of old gasket material. There is a factory sealant available for reassembly but I chose an automotive RTF @ $4 vs $24 and it worked OK.
14. Installing the seal requires some tools and experience to done successfully. The right size sockets or piece of pipe, coupled with an arbor press or vise will get the seal in. The cover is delicate so if in doubt find a machine shop.
15. Support the outside of the cover on a hard surface and with a socket or short pipe length, PRESS (don't hammer) the new seal into the gear case cover.
16. Make sure there is lubricant in the gear case. Not overflowing but maybe 1/2 full when view with cover off on a level surface.
17. Apply some RTV sealant to trhe cover and install it. Tighten bolts evenly. Light torque (1-2 ft-lb).
18. Reassemble washing machine and test for leaks and proper operation.
Parts Used:
-
Thomas from Pascoag, RI
-
Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
-
Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
-
Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
20 of 22 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
The spin gear was striped.
I had to take the motor and transmission out. They are one piece. Removed the clutch, take off trans. cover, remove a snap ring, take the striped gear off, and put the new one on. Then put put everything back on the way it came off.
Parts Used:
-
Aaron from Lake Mills, WI
-
Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
-
Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
-
Tools:Pliers, Socket set
21 of 27 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Although the motor was running, washer wouldn't agitate or spin.
After disconnecting the electrical supply, first remove the two screws at either end of the control panel and fold it back away from the washer top. Then, unplug the electrical lid switch connection. Now, remove the two clips at either end on top to disconnect the housing from the washer back and chassis. The motor is sandwiched between the water pump in the front and transmission at the rear. The Direct Drive Coupling connects the rear motor shaft to the transmisson. After you have taken the outter portion of the washer off, remove the two snap clips that hold the water pump in place and slide the pump off the front shaft. Best to also disconnect the upper hose connection so the pump can be moved out of the way. Caution though, remaining water in tub will drain out. Now remove the two screws that hold the clips in place which secure the motor to the transmission. Careful, as the old Direct Drive Coupling is probably destroyed, the clips are the only thing holding the motor in place and the motor needs to be supported so it won't drop to floor when the clips are removed. Be careful not to lose the four rubber grommets which sit between the motor and transmission bracket. After motor is on floor remove the old plastic slip-on direct drive coupling discs from both the motor and transmission shafts. The new replacement discs have steel centers which do not slide onto the shafts as easily as the old plastic ones did. I had to tap the center steel portion onto the shafts using a hammer and a deep wall socket the same width as the steel portion of the disc. Be careful! I'm sure that tapping the plastic portion of the disc to properly seat it on the shaft will break it away from the steel portion. In my case, It took me several attempts to completely seat the new discs. I had to do quite a bit of tapping to get the discs seated far enough onto the shafts so that the motor slipped easily against the transmission bracket grommets and the retainer clips snapped back into place easily. Reassembly is simply reversing the steps you took when taking the unit apart. Before putting the outter housing back in place, I checked to make sure everything was running smoothly by jumping out the electrical snap-in connection for the lid switch and running the machine in the spin cycle. Remember, if you don't jump out the lid switch and just try to test the unit in the aggitate cycle, the machine has to first fill with water.
Parts Used:
-
Thomas from Commack, NY
-
Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
-
Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
-
Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
20 of 24 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
stopped working only filled with water.
Fast simple and supper easy! Please do not waist your time or money on repairmen that rip you off. You are garunteed all the way or your money back from Parts Select. Go to your model number than read a few stories of others to better pin point your problem then order part and your item will ship fast I had my part on the 2nd day of the order. Do not be fooled you can do it easily! I have order twice and both items went smoothly and took less then 10 minutes to put in. Thanks Parts Select for making it possible for the little guys and supporting them and not the big rip off scammers. I will be back when needed. May you continue in your good deed! C.S.
Parts Used:
-
Christa J from ElDorado Springs, MO
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers
20 of 24 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
washer wouldn't start up after filling & closing lid
First I loosened the 2 screws on the outside of the top control assembly with a philips screwdriver. Then I took out the 2 other screws toward the top on the back with a socketwrench.Next I removed the top so I could access the switch. After that I removed the broken switch and unhooked from wire hareness. I then hooked up the new switch and snapped into place. Last I put the top back on and screwed into place.
Parts Used:
-
Jeremy from Marengo, IA
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
20 of 26 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Top Half of Agitator would not function without appying sideways pressure
Heard about the website... 1 minute to find it, 10 minutes to order new cogs... 3 day wait for new parts... Rec'd Fedex, 15 minutes total to pull the agitator cover (bleach dispenser) then the bung cover with o-ring (just lift out) expose bolt, unskrew and remove top portion of agitator or entire agitator if it's easier. Seperate, remove black cog holder (slides up the spindle) and replace cogs one at a time just like the old ones. Reassemble in reverse and you are back in business. Saved the $75 deductible on my home appliance warrenty. You guys are the best... cheers...
Parts Used:
-
Donald from Fredericksburg, VA
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Socket set
18 of 21 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!