3ET18GKXWG01 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

Determined that compressor was not running, after researching problem on another site they recommended i try the condenser moor fan or motor, the defrost thermostat or defrost timer. . I was not satisfied with their recommendations. If I had tried their recommendations i would have likely gotten frustrated and spent upwards of $3000 to replace the 22 year-old hand me down unit. Thank you Parts Select for properly diagnosing my relay failure saving me a ton of money.

The Video on U tube was helpful. I have a side by side model and it was difficult to work in such tight quarters to attach the new part . I found that by removing the cable assembly it was much easier to attach (cut and crimp) the new part on the outside , then reinsert the assembly. The new part resolved my problem. Don't panic when you try and remove the cable assembly. Hope this is helpful.

inserted a knife between the switch and the plastic interior in order to pop the switch out.
then took off the 2 wires on the old switch put them on the new switch and reinserted the switch into the plastic interior.

1 removed bottom off old ice maker (3 hex screws) and ice drop shield (white plastic ice flips over into ice holder, old unit had different drop angle, see how described below, but I just musled it off the old unit) 2 removed "ice sensing bar off new ice maker and rotated mechanical sensor to on (leatherman tiny flat head) 3 removed end cap from new ice maker, then loosened to large screws (Phillips, leatherman) for motor unit cover. This allowed removal of ice drop shield on new unit (two tabs, one at each end). 4 removed ice drop shield and installed old ice dropshield on new unit 5 tightened two endcap screws (Phillips/leatherman) and reinstalled end cap 6 installed old bottom unit/tray on new ice maker (3 screws) 7 ensured wiring matched and routed plug properly 8 installed unit slides in 9 plugged unit to existing plug 10 installed old wiring shield (1 hex screw). Waited two hours to verify water valve worked properly, although IR codes did indicate "okay". Machine has been making ice and IR sensor shuts it off properly. So far a success. I have many spare parts if I need to do further repairs including a new water solenoid. Only saying it was a bit difficult because of the parts exchange, in actuality for me it was really easy.

I measured the new handle against the door and cut it with a hack saw. I slid the new bottom end cap on the handle, unscrewed the broken one, slid the handle into the top cap and screwed the bottom to the door. Everything fit, even the new cap to cover the screw. Piece of cake.
I am really surprised and pleased that you guys had these parts. I'm checking out a pull-chain toilet and a ringer washing machines next. You may hear from me again. Thanks.
John

Very simple fix, remove 3 screws, two connectors to the old switch

I removed the switch housing (4 screws), replacing the switch in the housing was a snap. It took 5 minutes, cost $8 and light works like new!

Why didn't I order this part and do the repair earlier? Very simple.

The light rocker switch wasnt working. I found the part on the web site. It was so easy. I used a screw driver to pop out the old one and pop the new one in. It took 5 min. Thanks!!!

i didn't repair replace capacitor, bi metal defrost thermostat and still not freeze also replace light door switch any suggestion thanks

Removed freezer shelving. Removed 3 shelving brackets (dovetailed) by sliding them up off of the small square mounted on the freezer wall. This was a stumbling block until
I figured out how to remove these brackets. Removed three Philips head screw in freezer back panel (24) with nut driver. Removed light bulb cover to get some grip on back panel. Lifted the back panel up slightly and then folded in down a bit then rotated it to the left. Removed 4 hex head (1/4in) screws on fan shroud (23) and brought down into the freezer. Disconnected electrical spade connectors from motor and removed entire unit from freezer to work on motor. Removed two hex head screws (18) holding motor to the brackets. Pushed new fan on to new motor using a 1/4 nut driver and hammer. Mounted motor to old brackets with two screws (18). Placed motor/fan/shroud unit in freezer and reconnected electrical spade connectors. Replaced motor/fan/shroud in freezer with the 4 hex head screws (15), dropping one behind the coils. Just replaced it with a look alike. Turned power back on to check if the fan was operating normally. Put back panel in place and screwed it in place then put shelving clips back into place and then all the shelving. Appears to operating quietly so far. About 30 minutes to complete the job.

Piece of cake. It took me longer to remove the food from the freezer, remove shelves and back panel than to do the repair. I heard the fan making some noises so I replaced both the fan and defrost thermostat. I used the instructions submitted by a another customer. My 20+ year old fridge is like new now.

I pulled off the panel covering the part in the freezer cut and stripped the wires. Used crimper and connectors put the new part on put the wires band panel back on and plugged the refrigerator back in. Everything works just fine now.

Unplug refrigerator.
Pry switch out with putty knife
Remove two wires from switch
Attach wires to new switch
Push new switch into slot

My fridge did not have icemaker add on. The evap fan is in the freezer behind the back panel. Empty the freezer section (into a cooler) and turn the fridge off. Remove all the shelves in freezer section. Remove the shelf support tabs by lifting them up. use phillips head screwdiver to remove back panel in freezer section. Use nut driver to remove fan shroud. Remove old fan and save the mounting arms. Install mounting arms on new fan and install fan. Install shroud, back panel, shelf mounts and shelves. Thats it!

I took a chance and ordered a switch that is next to the top of the door. looked for how to remove it easily done in ten minutes works fine last long time.