38471PBRWRWW General Electric - Instructions

I followed advice from other posts on this web site. The only thing additional I'd recommend is to take pictures of assemblies before you disassemble them. A neighbor gave me that useful tip. It should be noted that I first noticed my refrigerator failure back on June 22, 2012. I hired a reputable local repair service to fix it. They replaced the Defrost heater (item 618) and charged me $ 208.14. Then on August 22nd, I noticed that the problem resurfaced. I decided to fix it myself using info from site. The repair went well, and I'm hopeful that it will stay repaired. Kudos to this site!

removed freezer panel,found the evap.iced up,put defrost timer into defrost. wated five min.no heat used hair dryer to defrost evap.found termination visually defective.replace defective part.no call back.Iam a EPA certified universal technician.

I used the socket set to remove pannel that allowed me to have access to the evaporator fan. Once the fan and it's container was visible, I removed the entire fan container using the socket set. I took the fan out of the container, removed the damage blade and the damaged fan grommets. I then replace the old blade with the new blade and put the fan and the compartment back together. I am not very handy so if I am able to do this, anybody can. Ps. I was very very pleased with the services I received from PartSelect and would encourage others to use them - must admit I was very suspicious at first.

Only took a screwdriver to take two screws out & install new slide with the two existing screws. Very easy. Took less than 5 minutes. Great website I found on Google right away, just by searching for refridgerator parts. After ordering part, only took a few days to come in.

Using Google search engine I was able to quickly locate the replacement rack for the refrigerator. When it arrived, I installed it by attaching it to the interior frame of the refrigerator.

I replaced the thermostat, temperature sensor, and the run capacitor. . . Refrigerator still not cooling. I checked the start relay and measured the input terminals on the compressor for the correct resistance. . . Everything measured correctly. In a last ditch effort before calling for service, I pulled the main board, inspected it and saw the problem right away. One leg on the compression capacitor had desoldered itself. Got out my soldering iron and applied a good amount of solder to that point. Put everything back together and turn it on. . . Problem fixed. The compressor kicked on right away and started cooling the refrigerator.

Looking at the schematic I found in the back of the unit, it appeared that there were not many parts associated with the problem. I removed the Overload/PTC and run Capacitor as a single unit. Although the capacitor was listed as the most likely problem part I decided to order both items since small particles of non-ferous material were falling out of the Overload/PTS plastic case. I installed both parts as a unit and plugged the refrigerator in. The compressor did not come on so I figured that there were other problems. After about 15 minutes I returned to the unit and found it running. It is now quieter than it has ever been. I now feel that the defective part was the Overload/PTC unit and not the capacitor.

took the old stop off put the new stop on

I started removing the switch by prying on the right side with a screwdriver, when it emerged enough I used pliers to finish removing it. I then unpluged rhe wires from the bad switch and pluged them on the new switch and "poped" it into the hole.

Connected the 2 wires and pushed in the switch until it clicked.

Shelf easily went in place

per your instructions

The repair is very simple, the gasket sits in a channel in the door. Just start with a corner and pull the old gasket out. Once you've removed the old gasket, push the new gasket into the same channel. Make sure you've completely pushed in the new gasket all the way around the door. It's as simple as that. The repair takes less than 5 minutes per door.

Easy. Followed the video instrucations. the part was right there next to the compressor.

My fridge came with only a single snack pan, and since the glass shelves are identical I decided to order the parts needed for installing the second snack pan. The glass shelf is secured in front by a round plastic pin protruding from the side of the fridge. Once the shelf is lifted upward and free of this pin, the rear retaining ears on the metal shelf side brackets can be released from the vertical-slotted metal track at the rear of the fridge. Make certain that you have the Right and Left snack pan slides oriented correctly, and positioned on the correct side of the metal shelf brackets. You’ll need to thread two self-tapping screws into each of the snack pan slides: one near the front, and the other at the rear. These screws extend through the metal side brackets into pre-aligned holes in each pan slide. When this is completed, you can test-fit the new clear plastic pan slide (drawer) into the slides to make sure it fits correctly. All that's left to do is insert the retaining ears into the appropriate pair of slots at the rear, then lower the front of the glass shelf until it's properly positioned over the plastic support pin. Now you're ready to enjoy twice the snack pan capacity as before!