363DDE8509RCMAA Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

Followed the Part Select video instructions which made the repair really easy!! Thanks for a job well done! ALSO.. the drum wobble was not caused by worn slides and felt. There are three screws holding the drum axle flange. Two of them fell out leaving the drum to flop about as it rotated. So we scavenged some screws from elsewhere on the dryer and problem solved. Once again.. thanks to Part Select for great instructional videos and great customer service ordering parts.

Parts arrived well in time, exactly what was needed. The latch was a snap-in process. The strike require gentile use of a pliers, and went in quickly. Thanks!

Googled possible problem where noise was coming from. Went to Parts Select web site. Ordered felt and drum bracket. Removed screws behind control knobs and removed top of dryer. Removed two screws on front inside dryer (left/right side) this allowed me to remove front panel of dryer. Unattached wires. Drum bracket is located above door opening...pretty much snaps out, felt piece is located on bottom bracket. Felt piece was replaced and new top bracket replaced. Reattach wires, lift drum slightly to fit doo iInto place. Dryer still made noise. Noticed I did not have any drum slides! Drum slides slide into top of front bracket at 10/2 o'clock position and 11/1o'clock. Easy and very inexpensive dryer repair!! My husband was very impressed that I could take dryer apart and fix!!!

Unscrew the top panel parts three screws. Then another three or six screws to get to the dryer front which needs only to lift straight up about two inches. Pull back slightly and replace the teflon slides. To replace the slides they lay on a tiny plastic pin and slightly bend into the slot to hold them in place. Reseat the dryer drum. Reverse the process to make it like new. From the time you start hearing the dryer squeak, BE CERTAIN to replace these within a week or two (depending on usage.)Otherwise, you may wear out the housing where the teflon would rest. If that happens, you will be out more money to replace the housing and a lot more time to install. Been there and done that. Trust me.

There is a plastic female closure part in the dryer door that wouldn't close tightly around the metal male closure on the dryer. I popped out the plastic square with a screwdriver, popped the new plastic closure in with my thumb. Works great. I never even installed the new metal portion of the latch.

Watched the video on YouTube and everything went great!

Easier than I thought it would be. I was hoping it was the front bearing because replacing the rear bearing looked pretty gnarly. Unplugged the dryer from the outlet. Removed two screws inside the door frame. Lifted the top off. Unscrewed the two screws holding the front on. Lifted the front panel off, careful of the wires going to the door. Popped out the old front bearing by releasing the two clips at the top. The old bearing was pretty trashed. The two grey/green slides were in tatters and one of the white ones was missing. Not too much lint inside the dryer, but the lint trap was pretty clogged. Cleaned the insides out with the shop-vac. Inserted the new slides into the new bearing an snapped it back into place, careful to make sure the light went in the hole. The felt gasket at the botton was in good shape so did not replace it. Replaced the panels screwed them back to together and it fired up smooth and quiet.

I removed the top of the dryer and saw that the top two drum slides where gone and the drum bearing itself was damaged I Temporally placed the parts on the drum bearing until I got the new one, that stopped the squeaking noise. All I needed to do was place the part with the hole on the little hook and then sled the other part in its slot.

unplugged old switch and installed new one. it took 5 minutes to do. 20.00 saved me 400.00 on a new washer.

remove front and top cannover's from dryer.remove plastic inside bearing housing and plastic bearing slides replace worn out bearing slides with new ones. needed 4 bearings direction suggested only two....

Switch off the circuit breaker supplying power to the dishwasher.

Remove the 6 screws that hold the plastic face of the inside of the dishwasher door, and lift out the inside liner. This may be a good time to wash it down, as it is probably a little messy. It may also be a good idea to put something a little heavy onto the door to keep it laying in the open position as the springs will keep lifting it back up.

Remove the screw holding the spring device down over the interlock switches and the thin plastic cover and put aside ready for re-installing again later. The spring may have flattened a bit and it may be a good idea to bend the end open, just a little, to give it back some tension. This is the spring that activates the interlock switches when you latch the door.

Unclip the faulty Interlock Switch by pushing (with your fingers) the little plastic clip holding it in and lifting it out of its cradle. If the switch to be replaced is the one furthest from the machine (or nearest the top of the door) you will have to take the bottom one out first so that the clip can be released.

Using small pliers pull the electric connectors off the faulty switch and reconnect to the new switch in the same way that the faulty one was wired.

Snap the switch (or switches) back into place in the cradle.

Replace the spring activator along with the plastic sheeting and screw that back in.

Put the inside of the now clean door back down into place, making sure the on/off lever is inserted through the slot in the front of the door, and that the piece of Styrofoam is inserted back into position.

Screw the screws back in, starting with the one at the top center nearest the on/off lever and then work your way down the sides from top to bottom.

Switch the circuit breaker back on and give it a whirl. Enjoy!

the replacement part was easy to replace but remembering how the belt went back on took alittle more time..

Faulty Door switch. Dryer would heat up so I knew it wasn't thermostat or element related.

After some research on the internet, I deduced the squeaking sound in our dryer was due to defective drum glides. I ordered a set of four of the white type, knowing only our model requires four glides, but not knowing there are two types for two locations. After disassembling the dryer I realized I needed more parts - two green slides and a new top bearing assembly. The dryer drum had eaten thru glides and into the plastic assembly. That was the reason for the squeaking noise - metal sliding against hard plastic. I ordered the additional parts directly from the manufacturer to ensure I got it right. After all the parts arrived, the repair was easy and took less than 30 minutes. I actually had my 17 year-old daughter do the work to teach her some skills. I just instructed her and stepped in on assembling the top that was just a bit tricky to put back on. Problem fixed.

TOO EASY to repair. WORKS GREAT>