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36369262991 General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

All Instructions for the 36369262991
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Left drawer slide broken replaced both right and left
Removed drawers and glass shelf. Removed screws that hold old slide rails in place. Installed new rails and re-installed cover for vents. Placed assembly back in and installed drawers.
Parts Used:
Vegetable Drawer Slide Rail - Left Side Vegetable Drawer Slide Rail - Right Side
  • Daniel from Chesapeake, VA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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strong children, broken parts
The refrigerator replacement parts all fit in just like new. The old shelves were duct taped in place till I got the new ones. Used WD-40 to remove the left over tape on the plastic, worked great. Removed glass shelf / front up first pull forward. Install center slide with gasket, replace shelf. Door shelf end cap slides up to remove, clips to front of shelf. Takes more time cleaning than making repairs.
Parts Used:
Door Shelf Retainer Bar End Cap - Right Side Center Cover Slide Drawer Slide Gasket
  • Stephen from Logansport, IN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
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broken right side rail.
I had to remove the glass shelve, the two drawers, and the middle rail. Once I did that, I slide the unit out together. I placed the unit on the floor and removed the one screw located on the far backside of the unit. I had to remove a slip cover (it had the kenmore logo and the writting on it) it was a snap on, so no problem. Glad it was not gluded on. After the old part was removed, I put the new part on. Put the two screws back on and snap the cover back on. Then I put the whole unit back in. This included the glassshelve and drawers. The process was pretty easy. Good luck with your change.
Parts Used:
Vegetable Drawer Slide Rail - Right Side
  • Jorge from Spring Lake, NC
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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R/S rail was broken draw would not slide in correctly.
Took out both draws and glass shelf, removed the entire lower shelf housing. I snapped off the front rail aluminum face to expose the screw. Unscrewed both screws and removed the rail and then just reversed the procedure to put new rail on. It was the most cost effective way of doing it. All the pieces are there on the GE website as long as you know the model number. You will save a lot of money by doing it yourself.
Parts Used:
Vegetable Drawer Slide Rail - Right Side
  • Laurence from Northport, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Old gasket did not seal
Took old gasket off put new on.

Gasket came well packaged so only ran hot water over it briefly and put it on.
Parts Used:
Fresh Food Door Gasket
  • Mary from Hortense, GA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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Light would stay on when door closed
Extremely easy repair, the hardest part was getting the old switch out. I used a pair of needle nose pliers to squeeze the tabs in and it came right out.
Parts Used:
Light Switch
  • James from Glendale Heights, IL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers
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plastic bracket that holds the shelf to the door was broken.
Simply remove the shelf, remove broken bracket easily, wash the parts, attach the new bracket and place the shelf back in place. No tools.
Parts Used:
Door Shelf Retainer Bar End Cap - Right Side
  • Omri and Diklah from Brooklyn, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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sweating / leaking water
it was so easy I need to put an ad online to replace gaskets got the right part on time get fit
Parts Used:
Fresh Food Door Gasket
  • John from Bryan, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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End cap broken - one of the pins snapped off
Lift the shelf off. Remove the broken pin from the slot in the door. Remove the broken end cap from the shelf - slides out with relative ease by just prying up slightly the rolled edge of the shelf where it snaps in. Slide in the new end cap. Put the shelf back in place. Literally took about 3 minutes.
Parts Used:
Door Shelf Retainer Bar End Cap - Left Side
  • Philip from Alamo, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Water Leaking out of bottom of refrig first then out of vegetative bins underneath
Replaced defrost thermostat and defrost controller and also noticed that run capacitator for compressor almost oxidized in two and ordered and replaced and cleaned out drain tube and invertor (which was blocked by frozen peas and other food)or water to drain during defrost cycle and put everything back together and seems to work fine now....storing beer in outside refrig now
Parts Used:
Defrost Control
  • robert from Vicksburg, MS
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
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Light burnt out.
Turned the wire protector to the side. Turned out the old bulb and replaced it with the new. Turned the wire protector back in place and I'm like new.
Parts Used:
Light Bulb - 40W
  • Roscoe G from ROCHESTER, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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water leaking from under dishwasher
Water was leaking from under the GE dishwasher, but once we pulled it out, had apparently been going on for a little while. Turning the water off to the dishwasher made it stop, so it was happening even when the unit was not running, potentially indicating somewhere early in the path of the water to and into the machine.

Indeed, inspecting the water inlet vale showed a slow leak. Getting the replacement part was fine, and it fit the electrical, water inlet (existing 90-degree water inlet elbow), and water outlet connections just fine - but the original machine screws that held on the original water inlet valve did not work. It took a little research to figure out the new type of screw required, which was apparently a 10/16 Type AB, which seemed to be a less common type of sheet metal screw (with a point), as opposed to the original flat-ended machine screws. So, after ordering those separately (which were a bit expensive), it went together fine.

A note on the water inlet valve part just indicating the the threading on those parts has changed over time, so potentially ordering the screws to attach it might be worthwhile, would be good information to add about the water inlet valve.
Parts Used:
SCREW
  • Edward from E LONGMEADOW, MA
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
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Old defrost Heater buckled up and bunted out due to no cut out in metal bracket design
I watched videos of the modern refrigerators and figured out how to do my model by taking my time watching as many videos that pertain to my refrigerator I finally I expose the evaporator I noticed that the defrost heater was buckled up and totally disintegrated and slowly took my time looking at the screws I took it out and I didn't have to do
disassemble bottom of the freezer to replace the part, you definitely had to have common sense and to be mechanically inclined to do this repair otherwise it was easy
Parts Used:
Defrost Heater Kit
  • Richard from LONG IS CITY, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
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Lights did not work, bulbs were good
Took out the light sockets, plugged in the new ones. I found the manual on line to find the part numbers. Parts select parts were perfect
Parts Used:
Light Socket Light Bulb - 40W
  • Donita from O FALLON, MO
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Noisy Fan Motor
Simple. Rolled the refrigerator out , unplugged the 120 volts AC outlet.(1) Unplugged the wiring from the cabinet to the fan (white (three pin connector)). (2) Removed the two 5/16 inch screws holding the rear motor bracket . (3) Removed the fan blade from the motor shaft by applying slight pressure, pulling if off the old motor shaft. (4) removed the rubber isolator from the frame and from the rear of the old motor. (5) placed the rubber isolators back on the motor and frame. (6) Pushed the new motor back into the frame and re-installed the fan assembly. (7) remounted the fan with the rear support and the two 5/16 inch screws. Reconnected the three wire connector. Just checked the fan blade assembly to make sure they were not hitting the fan shroud. Fan blades should sit just partially inside the shroud to make sure it produces maximum airflow.
(8) Reconnected the 120 volt AC and waited for the compressor to cycle back on... Nice quite fan... Thanks
Parts Used:
Condenser Fan Motor
  • THOMAS from MEBANE, NC
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
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All Instructions for the 36369262991
76 - 90 of 194