36362 Kenmore - Instructions

The replacement of the light no problem, the reason the light broke; problem. The original was glued in (for transport i think) and simply trying to unscrew it out (in a very tight slot) it broke; be careful or you’ll be buying a new $20 bulb (with shipping and handling).

I simply removed the broken coupler and snapped the replacement part into place, being careful to line up the slot on the new coupler. Just a note: the troubleshooter guide on the website was a great help in determining how to fix the problem. The comment section let me know this a simple fix anyone could do.

Unpugged microwave. Removed the screws on the bottom cover of the micorwave. Unpugged drive motor and removed two screws from drive motor. Installed new motor and replaced the bottom cover, plugged in microwave . . . presto!

Installation was just as easy as numerous other customers indicated. Also, your service was as great as many other customers indicted . . . part was recieved in 2 business days. Thank you for great service and website.

Removed Old Handle with minor difficulty, two screws came out easy other two had to drill out back plate to get to other two screws, after that, repair went fine.Took about an hour total time for repair, and sure saved alot of money!!

This is sometimes described in other repair notes as "microwave 'runs' when door is open."
With power disconnected: Remove the microwave's metal grill surround. Three lower screws accessible with lower oven door open. Two screws accessible at top of microwave door opening with door open.
Remove microwave control panel: Remove two femaleTorx head screws (#27?) that secure the panel, accessible at right side of door opening. The right side of the control panel is secured by plastic tabs fitting into slots in the oven frame. Take good care to note how these tabs disengage from the slots (lift and shift). Tab breakage very possible! Once disengaged, the panel hinges outward and downward and is self-supported. It may be necessary to guide some of the wiring out of the way to fully lower.
There are three door switches, one "monitor" and two "secondary" switches. All switches are housed in a plastic frame, which must be lifted out of position for access, each switch is retained by flexible plastic, breakable-looking hooked fingers. Also note that the electrical connectors have tiny release tabs that must be depressed in order to pull them off of the switches. In my case the topmost switch, one of the "secondary" switches, was clearly bad since there was no "snap" or click when pressing the switch's button. Maybe you can determine which switch is bad before proceeding but I had ordered all three to avoid going through this exercise again any time soon.
Replace switch or switches, place switch carrier back into position and otherwise reverse the disassembly steps.

removed the screws and trim sat the replacement glass in and that was it.these are uncertain times,and the prices in town were way out there,i found this site very comfottable in pricing and service,i know where to come to now,that's for sure!

i was really pleased getting the order from partselect. i had torn my oven appart and knew i needed just this one part i came home and ordered it from parts select and actually got the part the next day.... very nice.... so pleased

Open the door. Pry out the plastic cover shield to expose the bottom screw. Remove the screws and the remains of the broken handle. Install the new handle. Reinstall the cover.

Piece of cake!

remove two screws slide out. slide new one in. put two screws back. done.

Un screwed the cover but when i tried to remove the bulb it was broken at the base. I disconnected the power and used neddle nosed pliers to remove the base

Unscrewed bottom panel, then unscrewed light socket, then replaced with new socket and bulb. Reattached socket and panel.

I replaced the switch at the bottom per instruction. I had both switches. I think it was the monitor door switch.It works fine now. Thank you Part Select .

took a screw driver and pride off plastic on inside of door. be carfule not to break it. only one of two screws that go into handle were visable. had to drill a hole in metal braket to get at second screw. you can just bend the metal braket back inorder to use drill. bend it back when done. took off handle and replaced it. snapped plastic piece I took off back in place and finished.
ge told me i needed to replace whole door. which they nolonger stock and I could not find a whole door for my model on web. found handlw on this website and did it my self

Most of the effort is simply getting the oven out of the built in enclosure and the sheet metal off. This take about 15 minutes then you have to remove the two screws (not handy location) that hold the door latch/switch assembly so you can remove the switch. I did this BEFORE ordering so I could test the switch (it was charred) and verify the part needed. WATCH OUT - some ovens use a normally open an some a normally closed version of this switch - you have to get the right one. I checked several suppliers that were showing the WRONG switch for my model. PartSelect had it right. Once I received the switch I had it on and the oven installed and running in less than 30 miutes. Working fine since then...

Removed the control panel to access thermostat. Removed the burner top to remove and route thermostat sensor into the oven