36361542411 Kenmore Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

I unscrewed the inside of the dishwasher door and clearly saw the old interlock switch. This dishwasher has two, but it was obvious that one switch worked and one didn't (one switched was permanently pressed in). I removed the old interlock switch. It was tricky to pull out and I felt like I was going to break it but after watching youtube videos, I was pretty sure you just have to pull hard. I easily put the new switch in, reattached the dishwasher door, and it works perfectly!

Replacement handle easily snapped into dryer door. No skill or tool needed,.

Purchased spanner wrench for tub nut wouldn’t budge, impacted off. Then spin tub took 2days to get loose, lots of WD40 , also heated up center area, used a small sledgehammer head to hit a socket on the large part of the shaft . Had to take out outer tub to replace seal and support bearing unit.

This kept the interlock open and shut off the dryer when the door swung open The broken latch was popped out using a flat blade screwdriver and the replacement snapped into place by hand. Good as new!

Took out interlock switch (two leads) and replaced with new one. As simple as that.

I removed the washer front cover and slanted cover between washer and drier to see where the noise was coming from. I found 2 rubber stabilizing straps broken away from the tub cap and popped off the snap on tub cap to see if I could repair it. I could not, so, I ordered a new tub drip cap thinking that would solve the problem. Well, the new cap was not identical to the one I took out. The pegs that the straps are supposed to connect to were nonexistent ... frustrating. After reading several help files, I discovered that GE had changed the design of the drip cap intentionally and had done away with the stabilizing straps. There was no mention of the design change in the instructions that came with the new part. Okay, now the real fun began...LOL. Removing those darned tub hangers was a challenge because I was working alone and in a very confined area. The instructions said to remove the 2 front hangers and let the tub sit on the floor. I did not like doing that for fear of damaging other parts under the tub. Additionally, I could not reach the rear hangers if I did it the recommended way. So, I used some oak boards and straps to lift (jack up) the tub as high as possible and to remove the weight off of the tub hangers. With the weight removed from the hangers, they snapped out of place...not easily. The 2 rear hangers are hard to reach and the plastic hanger caps were difficult to unsnap. I had to slam the plastic caps against the frame to get them unsnapped from the metal rods. The instructions did not contain any description of how the hangers are connected or how to get them removed. Anyway, I put it all back together and tested it. Everything is working fine now...minus the stabilizing straps. It would be very easy to injure yourself doing this job. Take your time and consider the consequences before jumping into this alone or with improper lifting equipment or mechanical skills. It was tedious and frustrating but not impossible. Good luck!

Removed panel to access the interlock switches. There were two. The button on one switch was fine and the button on the other would not depress. Ran a continuity test and it failed. The switch also had a burnt smell

Removed any broken pieces from old handle and popped in new handle.

If you're handy with a right angle grinder and a cutoff wheel, it can be done.

Order the washer hub, hub nut, and the spring washer above the hub nut.

Get the agitator out. a pair of flat bars and some hammering on the agitator retaining bolt helps a lot. Loosen the retaining nut a few turns, pry and hammer at the same time, repeat until he agitator comes out.

On the bottom of the tub assembly is a brown plastic bracket that holds the spin solenoid. Remove it before you dismount the tub assembly. It's easy to break, and it costs $65.

Dismount the tub assembly from the cabinet. Turn it over and remove the motor. Unbolt everything that can be unbolted. Cut away enough of the large metal plate that was bolted to the bottom of the tub so that the tub assembly will stand upright on a five gallon bucket.

Stand the tub assembly upright on the five gallon bucket. Cut away the hub nut. Try not to cut into the black steel disk on the bottom of the tub. Soak the metal parts with PB Blaster, Kroil, or similar. Slip a three foot long piece of 1 1/4 pipe or conduit over the stem that held the agitator. Hold the pipe upright. Drop a four foot long steel rod into the pipe. Use the steel rod as a slide hammer and whale away. Stop frequently to spray your penetrant, and keep hammering. Eventually you'll drive the old washer hub out of the drum. Remember, everything is plastic and not indestructible..

Before reassembly turn the tub over and clean up the mating surfaces, ditto the agitator. When reassembling use antisieze compound on the mating surfaces.

This was the third time the same rod had disconnected from the frame of the washer. The first time, it took us all day to fix it, trying to hold the tub up and reconnect the rod. The second time it disconnected, it took us all day again. This time fortunately one of the black stabilizer rubber tubing broke off from the tub cover. Thank goodness I found part select, read the reviews on installation and ordered the entire tub cover kit. They had the best price and I received it in 2 days. This time it took an hour to repair!!

I watched the Parts Select video with Steve and he showed me how to do the repair. Took the top cover off and front door panel, I did not undo the wiring on the door switch. Removed the old top bearing (it snaps in and out) put the new one in placed the glide bearing put everything back together and no more noise. It worked.

had a great video to follow, made it easy to install.

Follow YouTube "how to change dryer's belt" some video is very clear.

I removed the top cover and the back cover to install new belt.
Once i put new belt i discovered that the pulley was also broken so now i have order the pulley so that i can complete the repair

First I replaced the timer, but dryer still did not start. took apart dryer, jumper out door and componet near motor to see what problem was and to be able to run dryer while opened up. Actually motor had seized up just enough to not allow motor to start rotating. Lubricated motor shaft and rotated motor for oil to work its way in. Tried starting again and motor started. Buttoned dryer back up and reconnected wires to appropriate places and started dryer again and again.Worked for 4 loads of laundry and still working for 3 loads on Wednesday. Working fine