36358277890 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

All Instructions for the 36358277890
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The dispenser water reservoir had a pin hole leak.
3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Daniel from Genoa City, WI
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
1. Turned off the water supply to the refrigerator.
2. Removed the front panel and disconnected the water line to the front left.
3. Removed the left rear (freezer side) panel and disconnected the reservoir from the main water supply input. This was a little tricky to figure out. You must push in the water line at the same ti me pushing in the coupling. Then pull the line out while keeping the coupling pressed in.
4. Removed the screw that holds the reservoir to the back of the refrigerator.
5. Pulled the old reservoir out and replaced it with the new one.
6. Basically the rest is the reverse of the above. It took a little bit to fish the lines through the original path they came.

Overall this was an easy repair. If I had known how the coupling in step 3 worked this would have been a 15-minute project.
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heavy frost buildup in ice dispenser chute and door
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Robert from Rockford, IL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers
After inspection of the new door recess assembly, I realized that I could use sidecutters (electronic assembly type) and 'clip' off the inward lock tabs of the old recess assembly and disengage it from the crank door arm without any further disassembly of the refrigerator door. It was easy to 'unhitch' the tang from the crank arm and wi ggle it out through the external opening of the ice/water dispenser compartment. I reversed the process and inserted the new assembly through the external opening of the compartment. The new door recess assembly snapped into place on the crank arm and fit tightly against the ice chute opening, correcting the issue caused by aging distortion of the old rubber seal cup portion of the door recess assembly.
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Door Not Closing Tightly + Staying Open
4 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jeff from Venice, FL
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Turned off water to ref , removed bottom kick plate , got a towel and disconnected the water line plastic fitting and un screwed the (2) tube clamps un screwed the coupling and ((carefully )) slid out the tube from the compression ferrels ! ( Be careful and do not break or distort them + remember exactly the order they are removed ! Sl id the protector spring shroud from the plastic tube , took ogg the top hinge cover then remover the top hinge . Carefully lifted the door off feering the plastic tube through the bottom hinge with my foot ! Got the door off removed the bottom hinge + put the new on on, then removed the door cam which was broken on the bottom of the door , lifted the door up and carefully fed the water line through the new bottom hinge . Attached the top hinge and reassembled the rest same as I had dissambled it . Turned on water ( checked for leaks ) ! All working 100% a-ok ! This company is the best ! Ordered the part at 1 pm and had the part at 2 pm the following day many thanks : )
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The fresh food door on the refrigerator would not stay closed
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Newport Beach, CA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
First I took everything out of the fresh food door, then I removed the top hinge cover using a philips head screwdriver, and a nutdriver for the two screws holding the upper hinge. Lifted the door off the bottom pin, and placed it on the floor. Then took off the bottom hinge and used the Dremel tool to grind off the rivet holding the br oken door cam on the bottom hinge. Used a nut and bolt to hold the new cam in place, and put the lower hinge back on. Then replaced the other cam on the bottom of the door itself, using the nutdriver. (Be sure to buy two cams, and have the bolt and nut to replace the rivet). Reinstalled the bottom hinge, put the door on, replaced the top hinge, and presto! Works great! Thanks to the others on this site for their stories - really helped make it an easy and quick repair!
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Door wouldn't close properly
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from San Marino, CA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
First we removed the door. Then we had to hammer the old part off including the old rivot. We fould a screw that fit and put this piece on. We held the door in place and screwed the hinge on the main unit.
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The feeder was rusted and would get all over the ice
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • David from WINDHAM, NH
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Opened the box, removed the ice maker, removed the old ice maker from freezer, empty drawer of ice into the sink( the hardest part of the job) Phillips screw driver and removed the four screws holding the plastic front on and installed it on the new ice maker. Put it in freezer and I am back in business . This is real easy
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Ice Maker stopped making ice.
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Hugh from LADSON, SC
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
Did the repair just as the instruction said, once I read it. The part I didn't read was that if the plug was under the ice maker, you had to take the wire out of the clip on the side. So, had to dismount ice maker, unclip wire, remount maker, plug it in. Still under 30 minutes. Thank you.
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Ice maker stopped working
3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Mary from WESTON, CT
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
Installation could not have been easier!
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No water through door dispenser
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Roger from Colleyville, TX
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Replaced flapper valve per website instructions. GE factory technician took two weeks to get here, charged over $100 for the call and told us we needed a new refrigerator door at a cost of over $500 to fix the problem. We sent him packing. After visiting the PartSelect website, the $5.88 PartSelect flapper valve fixed the problem. Ama zing.
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Ice maker stopped making ice
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Robert from Wyckoff, NJ
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
I had made a dry run at the repair after watching the instructional film provided by part select and it seemed easy enough.
The only problem was that i needed to use the electrical cord extender (provided) to adapt to my plug type. That presented a problm because it needed to be tucked up out of the way to allow the ice bin to clear . Just needed to be creative in how you wrapped the cord behind the ice maker unit before snugging the attachment screws.
Cranking out ice like crazy.
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The icemaker quit making ice and the water started forming on the bottom of the ice bucket.
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Anaheim, CA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
First I removed the electrical plug from the back of the freezer that plugs into the icemaker. I then removed the two hex head screws that hold the icemaker to the wall of the freezer and removed the icemaker. I removed the plastic cover, which incidentally protects the gears, by prying it off with a srewdriver. I removed three small nuts (7mm) which holds the internal cam in place. I removed the cam by pulling it off the shaft. Once I got the part from you folks I reversed the procedure that I just mentioned, and put the icemaker back together. It works great. The part with shipping was around $16.00. A new icemaker was roughly $159.00. If I would have called a technician it would have cost around $300.00 to repair.
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frost/ice buildup in icemaker chute in the freezer door
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Kyoko from Bellevue, WA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
The only difficult part was not knowing which parts had to be removed to gain access to the flapper to replace it. It appeared as if the frame around the control panel would have to be removed as well as the door handle; we tried but were not able to remove the frame. It turned out that the panel just popped out with the frame in place. O nce we had access to the flapper, it was easy to replace it. The repair fixed the problem.
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Refrigerator door won't close
3 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • CYNTHIA from NEWARK, DE
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Wrench (Adjustable)
First I removed the top hinge of the refrigerator door and then lifted it off the bottom assembly. I had to turn the door on its side to work on the bottom where the broken part was located. I unscrewed the bottom assembly and replaced the broken part with the new door cam. Put it all back together and now the door closes but must be manu ally pushed to close. When the door was working properly it would shut automatically when released from any position. I think I need to install an additional part - maybe a shim? to make it close automatically. That will be another story.
This was a fairly simple jog to do but since I did not have the proper tools it did take me longer than usual to remove the bolts. I'm happy I did it myself and saved a big repair bill! Thanks to the people at PartSelect.com.
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Crushed Ice Only
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Allen from Hills, IA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
Let me start by saying, I usually hire something like this out but figured I would give it a try. The install was fairly straight forward, however it would’ve been nice if the instructions would have been more useful. Instructing me to remove one screw to release the auger and solenoid enclosure wouldve been nice. There were 3 other screw s that I didn’t need to remove and they were the ones holding the auger in place, which made assembling that much more difficult. Once to enclosure was removed, and the solenoid was exposed, it was a seemless process. I would however, recommend paying attention to or taking a picture of the connections on the solenoid. I was lucky to remember or got lucky. Regardless, I was able to complete the project successfully. If I had to do it again, I believe it can be done in 30 minutes or less.
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Remove front cover
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Philip from S BURLINGTON, VT
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
Remove front cover did not remove wires remove ice and water unit took off flapper put new one on 5 minutes back together
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All Instructions for the 36358277890
76 - 90 of 335