3635809 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

Replaced flapper valve per website instructions. GE factory technician took two weeks to get here, charged over $100 for the call and told us we needed a new refrigerator door at a cost of over $500 to fix the problem. We sent him packing. After visiting the PartSelect website, the $5.88 PartSelect flapper valve fixed the problem. Amazing.

Let me start by saying, I usually hire something like this out but figured I would give it a try. The install was fairly straight forward, however it would’ve been nice if the instructions would have been more useful. Instructing me to remove one screw to release the auger and solenoid enclosure wouldve been nice. There were 3 other screws that I didn’t need to remove and they were the ones holding the auger in place, which made assembling that much more difficult. Once to enclosure was removed, and the solenoid was exposed, it was a seemless process. I would however, recommend paying attention to or taking a picture of the connections on the solenoid. I was lucky to remember or got lucky. Regardless, I was able to complete the project successfully. If I had to do it again, I believe it can be done in 30 minutes or less.

I had made a dry run at the repair after watching the instructional film provided by part select and it seemed easy enough.
The only problem was that i needed to use the electrical cord extender (provided) to adapt to my plug type. That presented a problm because it needed to be tucked up out of the way to allow the ice bin to clear. Just needed to be creative in how you wrapped the cord behind the ice maker unit before snugging the attachment screws.
Cranking out ice like crazy.

Unplugged refrigerator and turned off water valve at wall. Removed the entire back, lower cardboard panel (turns out I didn't have to do this...could have just removed the screws from the right side and folded the cardboard along a perforated line designed for that purpose). Removed screw holding water control valve to back of refrigerator. Took new control valve, and slipped on adaptors for electrical connectors (in bag) to the two smaller of the four electrical prongs). Removed electrical sockets from old connector and placed them over appropriate prongs on new connector. Unscrewed the two old water out lines, cut the old fittings off and slipped the lines snugly into the new outlet valve (new valve had slip on connectors not requiring lines to be screwed in). Keep straight which line goes to which outlet port! Then removed water line going into old fitting and screwed it on to new valve inlet fitting (after removing black plastic protective cap). Turned wall water valve on, checked for leaks (none), and plugged refrigerator back in. Water restored to both icemaker and water dispenser!

By the way, the first valve came damaged, but one phone call and the people at Part Select promptly sent out a replacement which I had the very next day (and this was two days before Christmas!). Great job!

The only difficult part was not knowing which parts had to be removed to gain access to the flapper to replace it. It appeared as if the frame around the control panel would have to be removed as well as the door handle; we tried but were not able to remove the frame. It turned out that the panel just popped out with the frame in place. Once we had access to the flapper, it was easy to replace it. The repair fixed the problem.

Easy. First, unplug the fridge.

1)Shut off then disconnect water line.

2)Remove water valve mount screw.

3)Disconnect electrical plugs and snip water lines (square cut lines for new valve).

4)Simply insert and seat water lines into their respective places on the new valve. Using adapters as needed, reconnect electrical plugs.

5)Mount valve and reconnect water line.

6)Turn on water supply and check for leaks. Possible leaks: water line or not fully seated lines to the new valve.

7)Restore power and enjoy :o)

Replaced flapper. Followed the video. The lamp caused the removable plastic bracket (which supports the control panel and the ice chute) to fuse with the plastic frame in the door. Eventually broke the fused plastic, removed the bracket, and filed the rough broken plastic before reassembly.

I removed the plate covering the water valve for the ice maker and water dispenser, removed the nut holding the 5/16" tubing to the valve and took off the tubing and nut. I did not need to turn off the water supply or unplug the unit. I removed the kick panel in the bottom front of the refrigerator, replaced the existing plastic fitting with a new push-on fitting, then spliced the tubing coming from the water chiller to the valve where the leak was thus bypassing the broken tubing with new tubing. I reassembled the valve using the original plastic compression nut, replaced the cover and ran the water dispenser while checking for leaks. The water dispanser works great with no leaks.

Part attaches to metal plate near crushing fingers which attaches to ice holding bin. Remove about 6 screws total on each side of plate. You must disassemble the auger & other parts so you can reassemble it in the proper order. Not many parts but i always take pics to cut down on time. New part is at the other end of the auger and acts as the holde of the auger shaft. Picture a crankshaft with a bearing on each end so the auger rotates between new part and the other end of auger shaft. That's it.

Part was perfect fit .Removed fan .three screws.replaced that s it

Opened, discovered not flapper but more complicated

I didn’t do the repair because I ordered two grommets. When they arrived, one of the packages was empty! Instead of just sending me another one, they refunded the part so I still need one. By the way, I was not refunded half the shipping either which was more than the part itself.

This should have been an extremely easy, quick job, but because I'm not that familiar with refrigerator parts, and NO INSTRUCTIONS came with the part, it took quite a while. The fittings for the water lines to icemaker and water outlet were dramatically different from the old part. The old part had screw-on fittings. The new one did not. I went first to Ace hardware-they had never seen fitting like this, and didn't know what to tell me. I drove 20 minutes to Home Depot, and the guy there told me that, rather then screwing on, or needing another part, the fittings were a quick connect, where you just shove the plastic tubing into the fitting. Finally an answer!

I went home, did as he'd said, hooked it up (shoved the tubing in, used the provided electrical adapters for the contacts, and screwed the thing on. It takes a good while for the icemaker to get cold enough to start it's cycle (which I found out from an internet search), and about 6 hours later, I started getting ice. It works fine now, love the in the door water/ice on my "new" 10-12 year old $75 plus $35 for the part-huge 26.6 side by side refrigerator, but the part should have had at least an indication that the water fittings just needed to have the tubing shoved into them.

Had to defrost the freezer to melt off all the ice before servicing. Once that was done the icemaker replacement only took about 15-30 minutes to complete. The new icemaker came with many accessories and adaptors that were not needed and the instructions were based on replacing an older model and not really clear for my model. They mentioned not being able to use the new stripper but it was exactly the same as the old one so I left the new one in place. All in all it was easy and did the job.

Very quick and easy repair. Took off cover to access valve using standardr screw driver. After shutting off water supply to valve disconnected copper water supply line. Used a large towel to catch any residual water in line. Removed two water lines on valve use plies if more than hand tight to loosen. Removed screw holding valve in place, removed valve and disconnected wires (be sure power to frig is off least you get a shock. Reverse proceedure to install new valve. new valve has simple push in connections for plastic water lines. Install two electrical adpaters and electric lines. Mount valve with screw, connect copper water line. Turn water back on and check for leaks. Turn power on and check for proper water running at dispenser. Again check for any leaks. No leaks, install cover and you are done.