36358062891 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

I removed the back panel held in place by 5 screws. I located the thermostat and disconnected it from the wire connection to another part. Due to the connection requirement, I had to cut the wires from the original part and splice the connector with wires to the new part. After securing the spliced wires and covering in electrical tape, I replaced the panel and all screws.

Had to use a hair dryer to manually defrost the refrigerator before I could replace the heater assembly . I had to remove the aluminum mounting brackets and reverse them before mounting the assembly so that the wiring would run the same as the old assembly . Overall time spent from start to finish, including manual defrost was about 2 hours.
Thanks for the timer troubleshooting tips, they helped to narrow down the problem.

Removed the ice bin and maker, then removed cover from the rear that covered the solenoid that controls the dispensing mechanism. Replace solenoid. The tricky part here is that there is a styrofoam cover around the solenoid pin that needs to be superglued into place and oriented properly during replacement. All electrical feeds snap out neatly and are easily replaced. Reassemble ice dispenser and bin, and viola, your back in business.

There were not two screws as the instructions said. There was only one screw and I had to firmly pull it out after taking out the one screw. Then, to put the new one in, I had to line up two slots on two knob-like things and push it in firmly. Then screw the one screw in.

Other than the two-screw problem, it was easy.

The replacement ice maker that GE supplies for my old refrigerator is a little different than the original. The electrical plug changed from a round plug to a square one. They include an adapter for it, but DON'T USE IT. There's not enough room for the bulky cord and connector. I got a much cleaner installation by taking apart the old and the new ice maker, and then splicing in the old connector into the new ice maker. You need to carefully unscrew a circuit board inside to wire it in, and it'll be more secure if you solider 3 wires instead of using crimp connectors. The instructions also tell you to use your old 'ice breaker', but it won't fit on the new ice maker. I just left the new ice maker's ice breaker on, and it seems to work perfect.

Frig and freezer were defrosting and refreezing other than normal. Home warranty contractor told me ice maker was faulty. Purchased new ice maker. Unplugged frig, loosened 2 screws with nut driver. unplugged old ice maker, lifted old ice maker out. Took old fill cup off old unit and put on new unit since new fill cup was a different size. Swapped ice maker insert from old to new unit. Plugged in new ice maker, slid over the 2 screws, tightened, and plugged in frig power. New ice maker works fine but still have defrosting and refreezing problem. Figure old ice maker probably works just fine. New contractor still trying to solve problem. Have had problems with this GE Monagram keeping proper temps since it was new in 2005, don't recommend it.

Unplugged refrigerator, removed three screws to take out part, disconnected the wires and removed bad unit. Removed fan blade from old unit and attached to the new unit. Attached wires, placed the new motor back in. Plugged it back in, within 20 minutes panel between freezer and refrigerator was cool to touch.

Order 2 cams as recommended in other posts.
I didn't realize until the project was finished that the 2 cams fit together to tilt the door toward the refrigerator and force the door to catch.
1. Removed all items from door storage.
2. Removed top hinge cover held by single screw and top hinge plate held by two bolts.
3. Lifted up door to clear bottom hinge pin and removed door.
4. Turned door upside down and removed bottom hinge assembly held on by two bolts.
5. Replaced upper cam located on bottom of door and screwed the hinge assembly back on to bottom of door.
6. Drilled out the rivet that holds the lower cam to the bottom hinge pin.
7. Removed old lower cam and and replaced with new cam and secured to lower hinge assembly with pan head screw and nut (instead of rivet).
NOTE: The metal shim that goes between the cam riser & door was also broken, we used a small washer instead of the replacement shim.
8. Replaced door back onto lower hinge pin and secured upper hinge pin with original bolts.
9. Placed cover on upper hinge assembly and secured with original screw.
This is a project my husband and I completed together :)
Perhaps we will store lighter items on the door to lessen the chances of the cams deteriorating again.

Removed the face plate this just gets popped off. removed the four screws to release the unit. unplugged the wiring harness, removed the two screws that hold the bracket in place that the control unit is housed in. Slid the old unit out and replaced with the new unit. installed the bracket over the control unit put two screws back, plugged the wiring harness's back in. Slid the whole unit back in replaced the four screws and put the face plate back on. Very Easy.

I had to completely disassemble the ice bucket (dispenser) to gain access to the parts that were being replaced.
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It was helpful to have the exploded parts diagram to aide in reassembling the ice dispenser when replacing the parts.

Troubleshooting was easy - others had the same problem - coils freeze over and frost blocks air flow to refrigerator - part identification made easier by online picture - many parts look the same so you may want to call and confirm before you order (there were variations to this model number) - To repair: take off five screws that hold the metal panel on the back of the freezer - remove the panel - use a heat gun or hair dryer to melt ice from the coils (put a towel at the bottom to soak up the water) - unplug the kit at the top of the freezer and carefully pull off the thermostat clipped to the coil - remove the four screws that hold the heater kit to the back of the freezer - install the new kit where the old one was then re-install the panel to the back of the freezer - next, make time to clean the condenser coils under the refrigerator/freezer

Couldn't find schematic or repair manual
Finally found your site which showed the location and part numbers of the timer and heaters.
I ordered them; they came immediately.
I replaced only the timer, since it was the easiest and took only a few minutes. Defrosting the frezer coils with a hair dryer took about an hour.
Rerigerator froze over again in about two weeks.
I then replaced the heaters. One of the heaters was 'open circuit'.

I read over the other posts here and went with jacking up the fridge door and setting it on (2) 2x4 studs. A nut driver was used to remove the bottom hinge. I then drilled out the rivet that held the old cam in place and then used a 3/16 rivet to secure the new cam. A rivet is not necessary as you can also use a nut and bolt to hold the cam in place. It took less time to order the part and install it than it did to drive over to the appliance parts store and pick it up. I ordered around 10 am and the part was here the next day at 2:00 (without special delivery costs). By 2:30 it was on my fridge.

The OEM auger pitted and rusted. My ice was coming out brown. I had cleaned it before, but in no time is was back to 'spiced' ice cubes. I cleaned the entire ice bucket and disassembled, ordered the part and re-assembled. Now the disassembly was a different day than the assembly. It's a good thing the parts diagram was on the web, I am no Thomas Edison when putting things back together. It is pretty general though. I sand blasted the tin cover and re-painted before buying a new one. That had rusted too. Before that expense, I thought I would try it. Be careful of the bucket as it can crack. I am not sure when mine was cracked, but I noticed it this time. If you are contemplating the purchase of a new auger - don't. The new one is stainless and the old steel and chrome is a joke. The inside of the freezer where the bracket spins the auger is rusty too and the old auger will rust again in no time. Buy a new one for under $50 shipped to your door. Another note, be sure to remember what screws came from what hole. It will eliminate the guess work when assembling. Also, the spring on the arm that controls the crushed ice function, note the position before tearing apart.

First I removed the face plate by lightly prying . Once removed noticed 4 screws. Removing the screws allows you to gain access to the two plugs, one for the solenoid and the other for the switch that energizes the solenoid . Unplug the connectors and carefully lower the piece enough to reach the 3 screws that hold the solenoid in place. The 4th screw in the center at the bottom of the solenoid is the ground wire. If it is rusted like mine was just re-attatch it to one of the solenoids holding screw. It must be grounded!
Just re-assemble, just dont forget to replug the connectors. Also a little hint, If you open the freezer door a little you wont trigger the solenoid.