3635806 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

All Instructions for the 3635806
121 - 135 of 1185

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Ice buildup. The Ice Machine was frosting over. Ice (due to frosting) would block the drop chute.
9 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Tim from The Woodlands, TX
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Unfortunately, the replacement part didn't come with instructions. The repair, nevertheless, was fairly straightforward. After removing the plastic parts that guide the ice through the door (by removing a few screws that attach the parts to the inside of the door), I was able to slip my hand into the ice maker dispenser and remove the o ld part. The part clips on. It is a tight fit through the funnel (from the outside of the freezer), however, and requires that the gasket first be "flipped" open wherein it unfolds 180 degrees. Doing this will make it easier to clip the new gasket onto the assembly.
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rusty auger and crusher broke
8 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • david from frankston, TX
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
as simple as taking off 4 screws from door of old one and putting door on new one and putting bucket back in place
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Door would not close properly
7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Dan from New Braunfels, TX
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
I stacked three 2x4's that were approximately as wide as the door in length. This required lifting the door about 1/4" but it also got the weight of the door off the cam so the bracket assembly that the cam was attached to could be removed. I drilled out the rivet that held the old cam in place and like previous DIY's had to use a small bolt and nut to secure the new cam in place. Reattached the bracket with the new cam and that was it. The only problem was that the head of the bolt I used was not flat enough to allow proper clearance for the door to swing freely without feeling some drag and the wife noticed that immediately. I told her to wait until the weekend and I would again remove the door and file down the head of the bolt to allow the required clearance. After a few days of use, the door itself ground enough material off the head of the bolt so that the door began to open and close properly. So now she's happy, I'm happy and the dog is happy.
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Solenoid controlling the valve had stopped operating.
8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Eric from Rose Hill, KS
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
I first tested to make sure the solenoid was receiving power. Every time the arm on the ice maker cycled, the meter would go up to 120v for about 10-15 seconds, and then back to almost 0, so I knew the electical control and timer was working as it should.

The valve was easy to change - took about 20 minutes total (including pu lling the fridge out and pushing it back in). I just turned the water off, removed the valve assembly from the fridge, and took all of the lines off of the old one. I then hooked up the supply line to the new valve assembly. The lines to the water and ice had compression fittings on them, but the new vavle has a "push-in" connector. So, I cut the old water and ice lines squarely, just past the fitting, then pushed them in firmly. Plugged the connectors in, re-attached the vavle assembly to the fridge, turned the water back on, and viola - I had ice in about an hour! Gravy! :)
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The regrigerator would not defrost properly. After doing some online research, I determined that the Defrost Heater was no longer working.
7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • David from Lakeland, FL
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
First, I had to remove the back panel in the freezer. This exposes the cooling coils and the Defrost Heater which is located toward the bottom underneath the cooling coils. There are four screws that have to be removed before the old Defrost Heater can be taken out. There are two wires that go from the Defrost Heater to the power conne ction. These wires are blue and pink. I had to remove some pieces in the back at the top of the freezer to expose the power connection for the Defrost Heater. These pieces were held in place with phillips screws, so they easily came out to reveal the power connection. The power connection is a simple plug-in type. The Defrost Thermostat is also included with the new Defrost Heater. This is a round piece which is clamped onto the Cooling Coils. I removed the old Defrost Thermostat. It is connected to the same power connection with the Defrost Heater. After I mounted the new Defrost Heater and Defrost Thermostat and connected the power, the refrigerator has worked perfectly.
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Broken gear
8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • D.H. from Mulberry, AL
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Removed old gear and tapped the replacement on.
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Door Would Not Close Properoy
7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Mike from Lake Sherwood, MO
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
Door cam disintegrated after 20 years. This was a terrific site for suggested repairs. My problem was not paying attention to how the door shim, cam and spacer were placed on the hinge. Most of the site's instructions did not forewarn the obvious...pay attention when doing repairs!!

Instructions from others were generally pr etty good but as adept as I am at D-I-Y I still did not pay attention to how I took something apart so it could be assembled properly.

I don't think that ordering an entire door hinge set is necessary. It does not appear that shims and/or spacer come with the hinge assembly. Door cam was all that was needed. I thought about replacing the cam on the freezer side but won't do it until absolutely necessary.

This is a very good website and my thanks to all of the posts for the instructions!!
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freezer not frezing properly frost buildup
7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Bill from Columbiana, AL
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Removed housing around timer. Unpluged and
replaced timer. Defrosted freezer witk small portable heater. Freezer has worked greater since.
Saved a lot on service call.
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Plastic light sheild over freezer light had broken.
7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • George from Louisville, KY
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Removed old sheild and reached in freezer replacing sheild with screwdriver. 3 - 4 minutes.
Ordered sheild online one afternoon and received the nest afternoon. Great transaction. will use again when needed.

George in Louisville, KY
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Door Closing Cam Disintegrated
8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Charles from Hubbardston, MA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
The door closing cam on the refrigerator door was a snap to replace. However, I'm still baffled on how to replace the freezer door side. The condensation tube from the door runs through the door pivot and joins to a compression fitting behind the bottom trim piece. The compression ring is behind a formed lip on the tube and won't slide of f. I could cut the tube but I really didn't want to do that. If anyone has done this and knows the trick to replace it, I would appreciate it.

Ed. Please post your question at our repair forums, forums.partselect.com.
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noise from condenser fan
10 of 17 people found this instruction helpful.
  • donald from opelousas, LA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
disconnect the power to the unit. remove the retainer sctrews on the mounting bracket. remove fan motor from unit. using the rerquired tools remove the fan from the old motor and install on the new one. torque the nut until all slack is out then 1/4 turn. reinstall motor assy. and reconnect power. test the system .
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Refrigerator compartment warm, Freezer cold
7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Hop from Houston, TX
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
This is a old 2000 side by side Kenmore frig bought from sears. left Freezer side was building up ice in the back, while right side was not cool at all. The Defrost Timer was behind the light panel on top in compartment side. Easily remove unit and unscrew things. Works like a champ.
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Stopped cooling
8 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Curt from Selma, NC
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Removed panel from inside the back of the freezer section, by removing four screws. Then, sprayed the ice build-up on the coils, with hot water until all of the ice was melted away. (Note: be certain to plug the drain hole, and use several towels to catch the water drainage. ) Removed the Defrost Heater Element by removing two holding screws. Unplug the unit and pluged-in the new unit and replaced all screws as originally mounted.
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Door Closing cam & hinge cam riser had broken
7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Eugene from Dunbar, PA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Socket set
Blocked door from dropping ,removed hinge and loosened outer bolt holding door closing cam, removed old ,replaced w/ new installed new hinge .
worked like new
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Freezer hinge was worn
6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Wilbur from Waynesboro, PA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Wrench (Adjustable)
Shut off water and disconnected at factory joint at bottom hinge. Unplugged the electrical at the top hinge. Removed the door and installed new bottom hinge and cam assembly. Reinstalled the door and hooked water and electric back up. Part worked fine.
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All Instructions for the 3635806
121 - 135 of 1185