3629 Kenmore Range - Instructions
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Replaced the outlet the one of the top burners on top of my stove, it went very well.
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Charles from MECHANIC FLS, ME
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers
I followed the instructions on the video, the only thing they left out is where the wires go through to the back of the stove being that there are sharp edges. A role of glass tape would have been handy to replace the old tape. Thanks for asking, I hope this helps someone else.
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burner terminal block was worn out
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Mario from RENO, NV
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers
I unhooked the main power cord, unhooked the worn out block terminal cut the tape that was holding all the wires together. Removed the back panel and followed the wires unhooked the 2 wires and installed the new block terminal. Tied all the wires back, attached the back panel and plugged the power cord back into the outlet. i tested the b
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urner to see if it was working. The burner is working great, instructions were easy to follow and my wife is happy. Thank you
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Burner would not stay in socket
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Jack from Georgetown, IN
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver
I pulled off the back panel and the two wires were attached to the back of the know for the burner that did not work. I unhooked the wires, fed the new ones into the same slot and clipped the block in place. That was it!
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Fix prior jimmy-rigged repair job
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Jason from Charleston, SC
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
Prior repair job had spliced the terminal block wires with electrical tape; electrical tape caught fire while making pasta.
anyways, disconnect all power, remove burners, pull stove out. you'll need a 1/4" drive socket to get the back cover off; six bolts total. phillips head screw driver to unscrew the terminal blocks; replac ... Read more e with new terminal blocks; it did not seem to matter which wire plugged into the back. put everything back together. very easy.
anyways, disconnect all power, remove burners, pull stove out. you'll need a 1/4" drive socket to get the back cover off; six bolts total. phillips head screw driver to unscrew the terminal blocks; replac ... Read more e with new terminal blocks; it did not seem to matter which wire plugged into the back. put everything back together. very easy.
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Burner socket disintegrated...2nd time.
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Streeter from Millersville, PA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Socket set
Unplug the stove. Remover back panel. Remove coil and pan. LIft stove top. Remove screw(s) holding element in place and follow wires to the back of the stove and disconnect. Replace with new kit. Easy.
This is the second time the unit has gone bad. None of the other three burners has ever had the problem.
Tha ... Read more nks for having the part available.
This is the second time the unit has gone bad. None of the other three burners has ever had the problem.
Tha ... Read more nks for having the part available.
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would not heat
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Mark from SARASOTA, FL
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers
Did the repair just like the video shows.
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The element broke in 2....
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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jannis from PHILLIPSBURG, NJ
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers
Pull out wires & replace element by putting wires back in then tighten...done!!!!
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When moving the range, the 220 wire popped off the terminal and arced melting the plastic terminal
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Randall from ST PETERSBURG, FL
- Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
I looked for a new terminal locally, but no one had s terminal that would fit a 40-year old range. I went on line to PartSelect and could not find my model range, so I looked through all the terminals listed on the website (about 500) but found only one that was close to mine. Mounting holes did not match, but it had 3 connectors with 2
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20 capability, so I ordered it. I requested express shipping by UPS and thought I paid for the extra charge. When I got notification of shipment. I saw it was via ground. It went from Louisville to Jacksonville to Clearwater, FL. I ordered it on Thursday night and received it the following Tuesday night. Meanwhile, we had no stove to cook on. When the part came, it took two days to get the contractor back to our condo. He drilled new holes on the mounting box and jerry-rigged the wiring to make it fit. The range is now working, but I was disappointed in the delay in shipping which I agreed to express shipping.
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Two blocks kept shorting out.
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Evelyn from FRANKLIN, NH
- Easy
- 1- 2 hours
-
Socket set
After watching the video and ordering the parts and searching for the right size socket (which took most of the time) and finding medical tape as I had no electrical tape I took of the back unhooked the terminals and following the wires to determine which ones needed to be replaced I followed the video instructions on reverse as my son h
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ad spliced new terminal blocks into the old wires I taped each new wire to the one it was replacing and pulled it through the back of the stove and into the front attached the new wires to the new block and pushed the clips on the other end of the wires to the knob boxes. I rolled up the excess wire and taped it securely with medical tape so it wouldn't unravel and be in the way when I reattached the back shield on the stove. After I repeated the process for the second terminal (I had two that kept shorting out) I reassembled the stove plugged it back into the wall and used both burners that night to cook dinner! I have had no problems with those burners since then. Really if you watch the video first and follow the instructions you should have no problems. It is really quite simple if someone hasn't tried to repair the problems without replacing the wires. Splicing new blocks into old wires just doesn't work. If I have this problem again, which I hope I don't, I will be confident in my ability to fix the problem myself. Thank you parts select for repair video and the parts.
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Change bulb
3 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Louis from LEAGUE CITY, TX
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver
Easy
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Burnt Terminal Block
1 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Bayani P. from DALY CITY, CA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Screw drivers, Socket set
Unplug the range before opening the back panel and removed the wiring connection and replaced with the new one
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Oven Wouldnt Bake Food Very Well It Took To Long To Bake
1 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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SUZANNE from DAVID CITY, NE
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Screw drivers
First I found the model number, but it's parts were under a different number. So I ordered what I thought was the right oven element, but it wasnt right . My husband couldnt get it to fit . Well he finaly found the right part number so we could order the right part. We returned the wrong part and got the right element. It went in per
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fectly and the oven is working just fine now. Remember to always look up the part number you need and then order it.
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The terminal block was arcing and flickering, the burner did not heat up
1 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Lisa from MERCER ISLAND, WA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers
First and foremost I read each of the blogs from your site from other people who have repaired this part. It was great.
First I unplugged the stove. Removed the back plate of the stove by unscrewing 6 screws. Removed the heating element & drip pan. I lifted up the stove top to examine the receptable, and removed the receptable hel ... Read more d in place by a single screw using the nutdriver.
Once it was removed, I cut the wires attached to the receptacle with pliers. I screwed on the new receptacle, and taped the new wires to the old ones which led back to the back panel where they were attached to the switch.
By doing so, I was able to easily lead the new wires to the back side of the stove panel. I removed each old terminal wire and replaced it with the new one. (I had read in a previous blog that the polarity of the new wires didn't matter). I replaced the drip pan, and heating element, turned the switch and everything was working just great! I replaced the back panel, and that was it!
As you probably can guess I have never attempted to repair any type of appliance...ever! But your website and the people who shared their stories empowered me to do the job. Thanks so much!
First I unplugged the stove. Removed the back plate of the stove by unscrewing 6 screws. Removed the heating element & drip pan. I lifted up the stove top to examine the receptable, and removed the receptable hel ... Read more d in place by a single screw using the nutdriver.
Once it was removed, I cut the wires attached to the receptacle with pliers. I screwed on the new receptacle, and taped the new wires to the old ones which led back to the back panel where they were attached to the switch.
By doing so, I was able to easily lead the new wires to the back side of the stove panel. I removed each old terminal wire and replaced it with the new one. (I had read in a previous blog that the polarity of the new wires didn't matter). I replaced the drip pan, and heating element, turned the switch and everything was working just great! I replaced the back panel, and that was it!
As you probably can guess I have never attempted to repair any type of appliance...ever! But your website and the people who shared their stories empowered me to do the job. Thanks so much!
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Replace rangetop burner connectors
1 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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James from Wilson, WY
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Since we got the stove,this is the second time we've repaired these connectors. The first time the connectors came with pre-stripped wires, wire nuts and heat shrink tubing. This set came with pre-attached spade terminals, so I had to crimp the mate to the wires in the stove then put heat shrink tubing on the splices. I also had to bend
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the part of the connector that mounts onto the stovetop. These had a horizontal tab for the mounting screw rather than the vertical design that our ranges uses. If the connectors designed for the earlier model were available, it would simplify installation since shrink wrap and wire wraps came in that kit and the mounting bracket would fit correctly.
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Drip bowls had deteriorated after years of use
1 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Stuart from UNION SPRINGS, NY
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Removed burners and existing drip bowls and installed new drip bowls and existing burners took approximately 15 minutes
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