3627550 Kenmore Range - Instructions

I had to call for a appointment for repair with GE Appliance because I thought then it . .was something electrical. The technician came out & checked everything out, turned out it was not electrical, The technician went out to his truck got a light bulb from his truck, put it in & it worked. It cost me $121.00 for trip charge from GE appl ... Read more iance for a light bulb that worked, your light bulbs were defective twice. Very disappointed with your products, cost me alot of money for a good light bulb thru GE appliance

I thought that when the burner didn't light it was the control valve at fault. After shutting off the gas, I changed the valve by removing the wires, undoing the tubing, then unscrewing the unit from the back of the unit. This worked one time. It turns out that if there isn't enough voltage from the burner, the valve won't open. I found ... Read more this out after I mistakenly thought that the new valve was faulty. Check the voltage from the burner before you do anything else.

From back, top of stove, removed 4 screws from panel to gain access to control unit. Removed 4 screws holding control and let hang from wires. Removed face plate from old unit and installed on new part. Installed new control and one at a time removed wires from old part and connected to new control. Replaced cover panel. Oven works fine n ... Read more ow.

Pretty easy in all. The connector from the igniter to teh power sorce didn't quite fit. Ijust cut off the new one and spliced the old one back on. Probably could have made my life easier if I took off the oven door, but it just meant I had to reach more. Works great, and other the connector, which I didn't really think would fit a 15 yea ... Read more r old oven,it was very easy/.

Removed the screw from the broken piece and put the new piece on and put the screw on.

This was a real easy job and a success,of course any repair i do on a gas appliance and when finished It doesnt blow up i consider a success.
Thank you,David Williams

Not a repair - just a replacement. Very easy. Just remove the grates, lift out the drip pans, replace with the new drip pans, and replace the grates. As the size of the holes vary you just have to make sure that they are lined up correctly. I was delighted to find that replacements were available for a range I've had for 14 years. ... Read more The range itself still works great. Thank you for your promptness in sending the replacements. I highly recommend your service.

This would've been an easy repair, but I ran into some complications.

First I removed the thumb screws holding the bottom oven pan, took the pan out, and also took the bottom panel off the front of the oven.

This gives you access to the burner assembly. I disconnected the wire to the ignitor. I then removed one s ... Read more crew at the front, and two in the back of the burner assembly with a 1/4 socket wrench.

The burner assembly came out. I tested the ignitor for continutiy with a multimeter to ensure this was the faulty part. There was not continuity, so I knew the ignitor needed to be replaced.

This was when I tried to unscrew the ignitor, and both screws stripped their threads on the burner mounting plate. Complication #1. Seems with age, that mounting plate tightened up on the screws.

I cut the screw heads off with a dremel and cutting wheel to get them out. I'm glad I did this before ordering the new part because I needed to order the replacement screws too.

The burner mounting plate for the ignitor needed to be re-tapped to get the new screws in with a 10-32 tap and power drill.

Once the mounting plate was properly rethreaded, I attached the new ignitor, and reattached the burner assembly to the oven.

When trying to connect the wires, the plastic connectors wouldn't click together. They matched up fine, but wouldn't go all the way in. Complication #2. While the plastic connectors were properly mated, the inside pins were both female. The old ignitor had male pins on it, the new one had female pins. So I removed the burner assembly again, cut off the new ignitor connector and spliced in the old ignitor connector with the included porcelain wire nuts.

I put the oven back together again, fired it up, and it worked great.

repair was easy enough, but the kit came with female ends and needed mail ends. I had to splice old connecters to new igniter

Once we knew which part was needed, we went on to your site and orded the part. It was delivered the next day! Partselect.com is bookmarked on every computer in our household, including mobiles. It's great to know there is such a fantastic resource for do-it-youselfers. It took 5 minutes to remove the old igniter and plug in the new. A ... Read more screwdriver is the only tool required.

Took longer to open the box.

Removed bottom shelf from inside oven, turned it obj and replaced the oven deflector with only a screwdriver

Just put it on. Quite proud of myself for figuring out what and how to get the part however! The website was very helpful.

I located the igniter module by following the wires to the top/rear of the stove. Removed two sheet metal guards and marked and numbered each electrical wire before removing them. Reasembled in reverse order. Wife thinks I'm a genius!

I removed the door and the racks, and the flame spreader. I removed the 4"X6" shield loosen the circular flap to plug the new igniter to the recepticle. Turn the oven on to check the operation and if it comes on, button it back up. remember open the oven door approx 3" and pull upwords to remove the door. I would say 90% of the time the i ... Read more gniter is the problem.