36272320102 Kenmore Range - Instructions

I ordered the new control board and installed it, no problem there. I attached the control knob on the new panel and tested the control switch and it would not turn at all. I still have not powered the control panel up at this time. I immediately called back to explain my problem with Parts Select. The person on the phone said that Parts Select will get another panel out to me and give me credit on the defective panel. A few days later I received the control panel replacement and did not install it until I tested the switch. it, too, did not function at all. Both panels seemed to be locked up. I called GE repair center and I find out that this panel is defective straight from the manufacturer and that he has 9 in his truck that are new and they too do not work ! I reported this problem with Parts Select and have been credited on the second panel. I have called GE direct and ordered a new panel and requested that it be tested and approved before shipment. I am now awaiting on the new Panel from GE.

Took off broken part and replaced it with the new part by removing a Phillips head screw, the broken part, replace with new and reinstalling the same screw.

Removed two screws to remove old bottom. Insert new oven bottom and re-attach screws.

took nut driver to remove the old and replaced with new. simple.

Very was ti replace racks and knobs. Very fast mail service

I replaced the oven igniter, discovered the floor of the oven had rusted through, so I replaced that as well. The burner on top of the stove would not light as it was designed, and because the 12 screws that hold the range top and burners in place were rusted in place I ended up buying a new range because removing the screws on the burners proved impossible, even when I tried to drill them out with a lefthanded screw removal tool. I should have just kept lighting the burner that would not light, with a match. That was a repair too far, that forced me to buy a new GE Range and throw this one in the trash. The igniter, oven floor replacement was easy. The burner igniter after 18 years proved impossible. .I installed the 18 yr. old burner grates on the new range, but the drip pans would not fit the new stove. New GE Range instructions were near useless. Do Not trust them, especially the Orifice change details NG to LPG.

the instructions given for this part were not 100 % accurate, our oven door required multiple, dis assembly and was unable to complete the task, local handy men refused to come to assist since the job was already started, it appears I will now need to buy a new oven , I was disapointed in the help because had we known we had the more diffcilult oven, would not have attempted, I did give the correct model and serial number to the person when discussing this part

The oven would not light and the clock was out. The surface burners worked.

Replaced the stoves control board using the instructions provided on this site. I would just like to add that you should unplug the stove before beginning and also know how to turn off the gas should anything happen while pulling the stove away from the wall to get to the rear to remove the control board.

It was an easy process which took about 30 minutes. A lot of that was cleaning behind the stove. The control board perfectly matched the one on my 1998 stove so I guess it is good for another 20 years.

I was so sick of this drawer and I over heard a buddy telling a story about a website that you can get ANY piece for appliances. I take the drawer out, look up the website (partselect.com) look at the appliance diagram and find the missing piece. Order it, get it, install it. My wife thinks I'm a hero and I think I'm pretty cool too.

My grates were all worn and the finish has come off. I took the grates off and put the new ones on. My replacement grates looks awesome. So its still looks worn.

was still using back burners while waiting for parts (after safety check). I unplugged the electric for the igniters, raised top, installed tubes, checked for leaks with soap solution, closed top, plugged in electric tested burners. Got a big hug and kiss from my wife.

popped out the remainder of old lens, then pushed in new ones and slipped on plugs.

Removed six screws on the back panel. Just switched six wires from the old to the new module. Stove burners work perfectly now.

One of the initial two screws for the oven bottom would not budge. Finally used a socket set to loosen it up. Upon taking out the old bottom I turned it over & saw a heat shield attached. I have no idea if you can order a new bottom with a new shield already attached or not, but I had no idea it was there until I took the old part out. Out of the eight screws attaching the shied, four of them were also difficult to loosen up. But in the end the new bottom looks great !

With multimeter checked resistance of oven sensor. Specs called for 1100 ohms. It was off by 27 ohms. The sensor from Part Select had exact wire connection as original. Then just matter of undoing old and reconnecting with new one.

One unsatisfactory event. I asked Part Select why my clock did not work or light up(timer works ok) . Answer was: sorry we have no time to help you. That soured the otherwise happy experience.