2671532210 Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

Replacement handle easily snapped into dryer door. No skill or tool needed,.

First, I removed the 2 screws for the top panel, lifted the top panel off, then I removed the 2 screws holding the front panel, tilted it forward to clear the drum, disconnected the door switch and set the panel aside. I then installed the 4 slides on the new front bearing, removed the light socket from the old bearing, removed and discarded the old bearing. I installed the light socket into the new bearing and the bearing assembly snapped into place on the front panel. I then re-connected the door switch, aligned the front panel with the drum, secured the front panel with 2 screws, then carefully placed the top panel back in place and secured it with 2 screws. I checked the rotation of the drum and it worked like a champ. Matter of fact, that same day I put this dryer and a matching washer up for sale at 8:30 am on October 31st and by 9:20 am I already sold them!! I delivered and hooked them up and the dryer works great!!!

I had already replaced the four (4) small wear strips which were like short strips of teflon, and the squeaking decreased almost completly. I noticed that front side of the drum itself had started to wear through the actual plastc drum bearing, but I hoped having previously replaced these tefon strips that would be the overall fix.
Wrong again... after a few weeks the squeeking continued until I ordered the new drum bearing and replaced the worn one with the new one. I was able to re-use the previous teflon wer strips, and it's like new now at least the squeaks are gone,

The actual fix was a very simple remove old drum bearing, snap in new drum bearing install old teflon wear strips put four screws in top, and front panel and I was back in business

I first unplugged the unit, opened the top, disconnected and took off the control panel, took off the front panel to determine the source of the squeaking noise coming from the Dryer. I saw that 3 of the 4 Front Drum Glides were gone and the drum had worn away significant amounts of plastic from the Top Bearing Assembly. I purchased the Top Bearing Assembly and a set of 4 Front Drum Glides. Disassembled the damaged parts and reassembled with the new replacement parts. The reassembly took less than 20 minutes. I plugged in the Dryer and viola! It works as good as new.

Removed any broken pieces from old handle and popped in new handle.

Removed panel to access the interlock switches. There were two. The button on one switch was fine and the button on the other would not depress. Ran a continuity test and it failed. The switch also had a burnt smell

Took out interlock switch (two leads) and replaced with new one. As simple as that.

I removed the washer front cover and slanted cover between washer and drier to see where the noise was coming from. I found 2 rubber stabilizing straps broken away from the tub cap and popped off the snap on tub cap to see if I could repair it. I could not, so, I ordered a new tub drip cap thinking that would solve the problem. Well, the new cap was not identical to the one I took out. The pegs that the straps are supposed to connect to were nonexistent ... frustrating. After reading several help files, I discovered that GE had changed the design of the drip cap intentionally and had done away with the stabilizing straps. There was no mention of the design change in the instructions that came with the new part. Okay, now the real fun began...LOL. Removing those darned tub hangers was a challenge because I was working alone and in a very confined area. The instructions said to remove the 2 front hangers and let the tub sit on the floor. I did not like doing that for fear of damaging other parts under the tub. Additionally, I could not reach the rear hangers if I did it the recommended way. So, I used some oak boards and straps to lift (jack up) the tub as high as possible and to remove the weight off of the tub hangers. With the weight removed from the hangers, they snapped out of place...not easily. The 2 rear hangers are hard to reach and the plastic hanger caps were difficult to unsnap. I had to slam the plastic caps against the frame to get them unsnapped from the metal rods. The instructions did not contain any description of how the hangers are connected or how to get them removed. Anyway, I put it all back together and tested it. Everything is working fine now...minus the stabilizing straps. It would be very easy to injure yourself doing this job. Take your time and consider the consequences before jumping into this alone or with improper lifting equipment or mechanical skills. It was tedious and frustrating but not impossible. Good luck!

Pulled the unit all apart to replace the rear drum bearing. Also replaced the front bearing. Works like brand new. Easier then I thought

If you're handy with a right angle grinder and a cutoff wheel, it can be done.

Order the washer hub, hub nut, and the spring washer above the hub nut.

Get the agitator out. a pair of flat bars and some hammering on the agitator retaining bolt helps a lot. Loosen the retaining nut a few turns, pry and hammer at the same time, repeat until he agitator comes out.

On the bottom of the tub assembly is a brown plastic bracket that holds the spin solenoid. Remove it before you dismount the tub assembly. It's easy to break, and it costs $65.

Dismount the tub assembly from the cabinet. Turn it over and remove the motor. Unbolt everything that can be unbolted. Cut away enough of the large metal plate that was bolted to the bottom of the tub so that the tub assembly will stand upright on a five gallon bucket.

Stand the tub assembly upright on the five gallon bucket. Cut away the hub nut. Try not to cut into the black steel disk on the bottom of the tub. Soak the metal parts with PB Blaster, Kroil, or similar. Slip a three foot long piece of 1 1/4 pipe or conduit over the stem that held the agitator. Hold the pipe upright. Drop a four foot long steel rod into the pipe. Use the steel rod as a slide hammer and whale away. Stop frequently to spray your penetrant, and keep hammering. Eventually you'll drive the old washer hub out of the drum. Remember, everything is plastic and not indestructible..

Before reassembly turn the tub over and clean up the mating surfaces, ditto the agitator. When reassembling use antisieze compound on the mating surfaces.

This was the third time the same rod had disconnected from the frame of the washer. The first time, it took us all day to fix it, trying to hold the tub up and reconnect the rod. The second time it disconnected, it took us all day again. This time fortunately one of the black stabilizer rubber tubing broke off from the tub cover. Thank goodness I found part select, read the reviews on installation and ordered the entire tub cover kit. They had the best price and I received it in 2 days. This time it took an hour to repair!!

had a great video to follow, made it easy to install.

Follow YouTube "how to change dryer's belt" some video is very clear.

Open Door /remove 2 screws in top of door opening (this releases the top panel) /Lift top panel off of dryer (it is tucked under control panel) Remove the white plastic "arch" (front drum bearing) on top of door panel / Install new drum bearing and 4 each of the "slides" on the bearing/ There are two on each side of the "front drum bearing"/ Reverse the disassembly process to finish/ . You'll need a standard flat tip screw driver and a Phillips heads crewdriver to do all work

Drum was misaligned and scraping againt the appliance housing due to worn-out slides.

Replaced the drum slides 2 - white, 2 - black. Replaced the slide housing (front drum bearing?). This part was worn due to worn-out slides that were missing.

Cleaned out old lint from rear of drum and appliance housing. Put new weather stripping seals on the lint catch exhaust. Checked drum belt for cracks and checking.

Buttoned everything back up and dryer works as good as new. $60.00 for parts, 1 hour labor and the job was done!