2661532212 Kenmore Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

All Instructions for the 2661532212
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Dryer belt was broken
4 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Alvino from newtown, CT
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Screw drivers
I removed the top cover and the back cover to install new belt.
Once i put new belt i discovered that the pulley was also broken so now i have order the pulley so that i can complete the repair
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Dryer was making intermittent, loud, moaning and whistling-screeching noises (temporarily relieved by squirtin lubricant through the drum holes towards the bearing).
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • BJ from WHEAT RIDGE, CO
  • A Bit Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
I used a flat head, a phillips head, and two sizes of sockets with my screwdriver to complete this project. I initially undid the control panel, but I don't think I needed to. I next took out two long screws that were holding the top of the cabinet on. These screws were just inside the doorway, directly above where the door sits when c losed. I took the top off and set it aside. Being careful to mark which wire went to which lead, I undid the leads to the door open/closed switch. I next found two, black, hex-end screws, one each on the upper sides, towards the front, and undid these with a socket end on the screwdriver; being careful not to drop them as they came out. I then tilted the front panel out and up and set it aside. Note that the front opening holds the drum up so it can spin. Next, I tilted the front of the drum up, and pulled it outwards, till bearing at the back pulled out of the socket, and the drum dropped down enough that I could push the belt off the back of the drum. I then pulled the drum out through the front opening. I could see that the bearing was mostly worn away and metal was rubbing on metal. On the drum, I took off the air diffuser and the drum's half of the bearing assembly, and attached the new part of the bearing assembly, where the old one was. There was a metal disk that I was careful to reinsert in its former spot. I tried to make sure that all screws were tightened with equal force. Then I removed the entire bearing housing/blower assembly by undoing the outer screws that attached it ti the back wall of the cabinet, I rotated it outward at the top , pivoting around the compression fitting (no screws) at the base. I then removed the back half of the bearing housing, and replaced it. I needed to screw in the screws from the front while holding the spring-clip-thing in place (once installed, you can stick your finger through the hole in the bearing housing and feel the clip right behind it). I took this opportunity to clean all the excess lint out of the cabinet. I then replaced everything in reverse order until I got to the drum. I put the belt loosely arounf the drum, with the grooved/ridged side facing in. Then put the bearing (with drum), back in the socket. Feeling through the hole under the front of the drum, take the belt where it hangs off the drum TO YOUR RIGHT, run it under then up around the left side of the small pulley, then pull it to the right (above the small pulley) and around the right side of the big (tensioner) pulley, and let go. Note that there is a swithch in the tensioner that won't switch on unless there is enough tension on the belt! Put the front back on, lifting up the barrel from the inside, so that the barrel opening slides around the outside of the front's assembly. Ours seemed to fit more tightly than it had previously, into the felt padding around to bottom of the front assembly, but it seems to work fine? Screw in the two black, hex-head screws from the sides into the front, and re-attach the door-switch wires. Turn it on (carefully) to make sure it runs. Then attach the top, using the two long screws up through the door opening into the top. Ours is working much better than before - hotter, faster, quieter! Should we have lubricated the bearing with lithium grease?
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The rear right rod that stabilizes the tub disconnected from the frame
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Lynell from PITTSBURGH, PA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
This was the third time the same rod had disconnected from the frame of the washer. The first time, it took us all day to fix it, trying to hold the tub up and reconnect the rod. The second time it disconnected, it took us all day again. This time fortunately one of the black stabilizer rubber tubing broke off from the tub cover. Thank goodness I found part select, read the reviews on installation and ordered the entire tub cover kit. They had the best price and I received it in 2 days. This time it took an hour to repair!!
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Rythmical Squeaking
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michael from Edmond, OK
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
The instructions that came with the bearing were limited and the illustrations were too dark to see. However, after reading the reports of others on this website, the repair was very easy.

Prior to disassembly, remove theaccess panel on the rear of the dryer. Pull the belt drive pulley arm up and the belt will easily slide of f of the motor pulley. The belt can be left on the drum.

Then, remove two screws at the inside top of the dryer door. The top of the dryer will then lift up at the front and slide forward to remove. This will allow you access to two bolt head screws on each side of the front panel. Remove these two screws and then lift the panel slightly up and forward. The front panel will then be free and the dryer drum will slide forward and out. Remove the four bolt head screws (behind the electric elements) from the heater element on the inside back of the dryer box.

You can now exchange the bearing on the drum and the bearing insert on the dryer heating element simply by removing the old and reinstalling the new just as the old was removed - four screws for each.

You will need an assistant to re-install the bearing. Someone needs to hold the three pieces behind the drum as you insert the three screws. You'll also need a star wrench set for this.

The drum is easily reinserted - just be careful to get the front of the drum placed into the front bearing surface when reinstalling the front panel. One word of caution, My wife tried to remove the felt bearing on the bottom of the front panel thinking that it was lint.

I found that the inside of my ten year old dryer was unbelievably full of lint. I'm sure that the efficiency improvements by cleaning the air passages will be substantial and I've just saved $400 on the price of a similar dryer ($900 if my wife and I decided to upgrade to the "new" model that we wanted but really didn't need.
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evidently the pulley spring on video was very very very weak
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • tim from NEW PRT RCHY, FL
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
the pulley spring took so much pressure to hold it down it took 3 men and a boy to hold it and place it in position to to get the belt on. Also there is not enough room to get your arms and hands in without getting some small cuts.Ultimately I removed the screws in the back of the dryer and spread the side of the dryer out to gain proper access. It was an easy repair if the spring would not have been so strong.
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Dryer was making a loud squealing noise.
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Patrick from Albuquerque, NM
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
I replaced the dryer bearing ( a plastic part) and all of the slides on the bearing. It now operates like new.
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belt broke on dryer
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • rodney from VANCEBORO, NC
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
good replacement procedure on you tube.
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Dryer Not Starting
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Scott from Poughkeepsie, NY
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
First I replaced the timer, but dryer still did not start. took apart dryer, jumper out door and componet near motor to see what problem was and to be able to run dryer while opened up. Actually motor had seized up just enough to not allow motor to start rotating. Lubricated motor shaft and rotated motor for oil to work its way in. Tried starting again and motor started. Buttoned dryer back up and reconnected wires to appropriate places and started dryer again and again.Worked for 4 loads of laundry and still working for 3 loads on Wednesday. Working fine
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Rubbing noise while dryer was running
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Carol from Simpsonville, SC
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Removed too of dryer and placed the parts on. Runs like a brand new one. Thanks so much!
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Bad lid switch
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Rachel from Spring city, PA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Socket set
Watched the how to video, very simple.
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I broke the door strike on the dryer.
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • CHRISTOPHER from PHENIX CITY, AL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers
Wife was out of town, visiting family. I broke the door strike by wedging the dryer door between the laundry room door, closed the laundry room door and it snapped the door strike breaking it. I ordered the part, and it shipped fast using the standard shipping, nothing fancy. Grabbed a pair of pliers and pushed the new door strike into pl ace. It snapped right in, fits and works perfect like nothing ever happened. The wife will never know :)
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No power to dishwasher
2 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Robert from OLD TOWN, FL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Replace both micro switches.
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Switch not working.
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Alan from BELFORD, NJ
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Open the door and removed the part. Installed the new part and started the dryer.
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Water temp will fill hot only with lid open. Close the lid and it is cold water only.
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Douglas from OVERLAND PARK, KS
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
The video I watched said to remove front panel, control panel, and top panel. After I removed the front panel, I was able to remove the lid switch and splice the wires together and reinsert in the mounting without removing the other panels. Secured with wire tie and put front panel back in place. This did not, however fix the problem.
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Drum was squeaking and making a lot of noise!
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Timothy from Rochester, NY
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
Took apart the dryer housing fairly quickly, pulled out the drum, and installed the kit. Was fairly simple. Then reassembled. The hardest part was trying to get the belt on properly and reconnect to the motor. Believe it or not, I wasted most of my time on the belt. Should've watched the video better and listened to my wife and her sugges tions.
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All Instructions for the 2661532212
76 - 90 of 224