258B-2CXW Maytag Range - Instructions

extremely easy to replace the burner. I just pulled out the old burner and replaced with new one. The whole process took less than ten minutes.

I unplugged the stove. Took out the burner and removed receptacle by pulling it out of the bracket and clipping the wires. One thing you want to make sure is that when you clip the wires from the receptacle you're replacing you leave enough wire so that you can connect them to the wires on the new receptacle when it is in place on the stove. I had just enough but would have liked more. The bracket I received didn't match the one on the stove so I used the one on the stove since the receptacle itself was the same as the one I was replacing.

Pug it in! That's it!

Took old insulation off and replaced it with new by hooking new part in its place.

Shut off power at breaker box. Removed top burner unit. Removed old receptacle (Mounting screw was rusty so I drilld out the old one.) Cut wires from old unit. Stripped wires back on old unit. Attached old and new wire with ceramic wire nut. Attached new unit. Reinserted top unit. Reconnected power and "voila". Wife was smiling again.

Unplugged the old one and plugged in the new, which you sent promptly. No tools. Easiest fix ever.

The seal is suspended by metal clips at each end, which are inserted into holes in the oven box. The clips on the new seal were a bit too wide to fit into the holes. so I drilled the holes larger, and it worked fine.

Took the old burner out and inserted the new one. The burner was received two days after ordering. I was very satisfied with the service.

I removed the old one and put in the new one. Works great!!!!!!!!!!!!

10 Minutes for a stove my landlord thought was not fixable (repairman had already cut the wires to the element and capped them)! The delivery person handed me the package, I got out the single tool needed, installed the part, put away the tool, cleaned my hands, and put a pot of water on the stove to boil for pasta. 10 minutes!

Well, I had to search a bit deeper in the internet to find out that the problem was not with the surface burner (which did look a bit burned out anyway) but rather with the surface burner switch (Part Number: PS336885) which must have ben damaged by the heat of the closest burner. If this problem would have been better documented (or if I would have searched more carefully) I would have saved over $40 with parts (Surface Burner Receptacle Kit) that I didn't quite need. Repairing the switch was very easy, thanks also to the available video , even though the stove used on this video (front panel) didn't quite match mine (top-back panel).

Searched the internet for the replacement part, placed the order and then disconnected the old one and inserted the new burner prongs into the socket. Worked perfectly!!!

Starting by me making a substitute prong to keep the stove working while the part this coming by mail. was a piece of cake.

We read comments by other DIYers and then looked at the video on YouTube. Our range is old and the screw holding the clamp for the block was too tight to remove so we removed the block from the old clamp and left clamp intact. Turned the circuit breaker off. Cut the existing wires and wired the new block to them. Put the block back into the old clamp, put new surface burner in and good as new. My boyfriend and I did it together but I could have done it myself - it was that simple. Thanks PartSelect for quick delivery and excellent DIY info.

The repair itself is really quite easy. Cut the wires, strip the ends and attach the new receptacle with wire nuts. The hard part was getting to it. My cooktop is about 30 years old, so I had to wade through piles of nasty built up grease. Some of the sheet metal screws were unworkable, so I had to cut them off with a Dremel tool. Not a pretty picture, but that's how repair work is on old stuff.