2539239781 Kenmore Freezer - Instructions

Turned off Refrigerator by thermostat switch in Freezer Compartment,(allowing for light to work in freezer). Then removed all food from freezer side,then all shelves & basket drawer. Next, unplugged refrigerator from electrical source. Removed back of inside of the freezer. Located the Thermostat for defrosting cooling coil. Removed and replaced with new part.(Tip-unplugged the wires for the original thermostat, remove from freezer and cut off and splice with connectors provided with new part, it's easier because you're not trying to do this in the narrow space of the freezer). Then attach the thermostat with new bracket and plug thermostat wires back in, replace back panel, shelves, plug in power supply, turn thermostat switch in Freezer to normal setting. Wait for Freezer to cool and replace food. It's currently working like new. BTW I thought I need a defrost time as well...however after I ordered that part and received it, I turned the existing defroster timer manually with a straight ended screwdriver very slowly and it cycled and the defrost rods glowed/functioned just fine. Therefore I didn't replace defrost timer. I'll save the new timer for future repair if needed. All in all it was fairly easy, and I didn't have to buy another fridge. I was really pleased with the service of this website...and the parts arrived very quickly via Fedex. Thanks www.partselect.com ! KJ

This was an easy job. First remove the ice maker, if you have one. Mine was mounted with just two screws. Loosen these screws, unplug the power cord at the connector and then lift the ice maker off. Remove the light bulb cover and the light bulb, just so you dont break it. Remove two hex screws and the back cover can be removed. My fan was mounted in the middle of a bracket retained between two rubber bushingings. Just push the fan blad of the shaft and pull the motoer out. Dissonect the power cord at the connector. My moter was differant than the replacement on the mounting so with the removial of the two screws on the motor I was able to exchange the upper and lower cast motoer housings. Reverse the assembly process and you good. Mine is running great.

After reading reviews I was not sure but I ordered part on Wensday in the AM and I had the correct part Thursday evening this company rocks thank you by the way i paid for regular shipping I will order again in a heartbeat

Ordered freezer key friday afternoon received it saturday afternoon. Fast service

Removed shelving, and rear panels. Replaced condenser fan and defrost thermostat. Defrost coil ohmed fine. Reassembled and plugged in fridge with thermometers inside. Freezer at 22degrees and fridge at 32 degrees. My first time repairing a fridge. the partselect videos were very helpful.

We really didn t need to do a repair, we just ordered a freezer key that we didn t have. I must say the shipping was fast we received it the next day. It was worth the shipping charge. We will be ordering again. Great service.

inserted key and turned

I first noticed my ice cream getting soft. Then 2 days later the alarm went. I emptied the freezer, opened the panels and saw no frost. I saw that 99% of issues were resolved with a defrost timer and thermostat so I ordered those. I have to say the parts came quickly and they went in very easy. My freezer seems to be in the 1% category though. It's still not cooling even though I can measure the temperature at the front of the evaporator coil is cold but by the end of the coil it's almost room temperature. I think a repairman is called for.

there were three possible problems the timer, the thermostat, or the heating element.i replaced the timer first as that is the problem 65% of the time and that did not fix the problem, i replaced the thermostat and that did fix the problem. after watching the video on line from parts select i took the back off of the freezer from the inside, defrosted the coils with a hair blower and then swapped out the thermostat which pops right off and i spliced the old connectors to the new thermostat. the heat shrink tubing that came with the part was a little to big so i put a smaller peice on each side for water proofing. that is what the cigarette lighter is for to supply heat to the heat shrink tubing.now that i have fixed that problem i may tackle the ice maker next

Removed three screws each side to remove old slides. Needed spacers under new slide so that drawer would stay on track. Cut old slide to make spacers and installed both slides in 15 mins.

1. Unplug the refrigerator.2. Remove the storage rack and back panel in the freezer. 3. Locate the thermostat. 4. Defrost the freezer coils , i used a hair dryer. 5. Remove the thermostat from the cooling coil and then clip the connecting wires close to the unit. 6. Strip the ends of these wires and connect these wires to the wires of the replacement unit using the supplied wire connectors. 6. Heat seal with a lighter the connections using the water shield sleeves provided and further wrap connections with electrical tape. 7. Reconnect the thermostat to the cooling coil at the location it was removed from. 8. Replace the freezer back panel removed earlierand the storage rack if you have one. 9. Plug the freezer back in. My refrigerator has been working ever since the repair. There are several YouTube videos available that walk you through the diagnoses and repair process. They are very good.

Upluged power pulled freezer out from wall removed the two screws that holds the defrost timer unpluged defrost timer pluged new timer in mounted new timer back with the two screws pluged freezer back in and job was complete. Freezer working fine.

After reading other posts, I decided to change the defrost thermostat, so I watched the videos, and did that. It got better, but the problem persisted, and the ice was still building up in the freezer section. So I decided that the problem was with the defrost heater. I ordered a new one, that was here under 24hs (using the Fedex ground). I replaced it, measured the old one and saw that it was not passing any current at all (so it was really burnt). Now the fridge is good as new, maintaining the proper temperatures both at Freezer and Fridge sections. Thank you Parts Select ! With $ 70 in parts I was able to get back my appliance working !!!

The sliding shelf side rail is held by three philips head screws that tighten into nut inserts. No amount of tightening would keep two of the three screws tight. I found that the nut inserts which are plastic and insert into the side of the freezer would pull loose, probably from years of overloading the sliding shelf basket. Ordered two nut inserts from PartSelect. 1. Remove three screws to remove shelf slide side rail. 2. Remove nut inserts to be replaced with needle nose pliers or reinsert screw a couple of turns and pull nut insert out with pliers. 3. Insert new nut inserts, position side rail, and tighten screws. Replace sliding shelf/basket.

Unplug the refrigerator unit from wall. I removed freezer rack, plastic light cover, the ice rack shelf on the right side, then removed the plastic back cover panel, (4) retaining screws, gently tilting the panel toward me, unplug the wiring harness by depressing the clips on the side of the plug, removed panel from unit, set aside. If the unit was froze up, so I defrosted the cooling coils carefully with a common hair dryer until it was thawed. Be careful not to touch or bend the coils , since they are very fragile and SHARP! I located the old thermostat unit attached to a straight length of coolant line. The new unit looked like the old one, so it was easy to locate. I cut the two wires of the old unit close to the round base to make sure I would have enough wire to reconnect. Since my new unit did not indicate a polarity(Neg or Pos), I just wired each wire I cut to one of the new unit. I used the shrink tubing provided and heated the shrink till it was fully melted. I double ck'd to see if the wires were basically waterproof and a good connect. Also, before I replaced the rear panel, I made sure that both wires I had spliced had a drip loop to it so water would not drip down into the newly spliced union. Also made sure the wires will not interfere with the colling fan on the back of the rear panel. Reverse the procedure in reassembling. Plug in unit, and wait and listen for the unit coming back on..I kept a regular thermometer in the upper and lower compartments. Allow 24 hrs. for the unit to return to normal operation. It may defrost several times till the whole operation is back in sync.