25374229704 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

Reviewed the video on your website and followed the directions to the letter. Great video

This issue was noted in the advice area as being a filter, or valve assembly. But it turned out to be a diode kit that was causing this issue. I don't know why I could not find this issue anywhere on line? When I received the diode kit there was instructions that noted exactly the problem I was having.
The fix was easy just a few wires cut and spliced and viola fixed.

First, I replaced the defrost timer, really easy, 4 screws popped the cover of the electronic area (top of refrigerator compartment) took it out and plugged in the new time. Unit still would not defrost, so replaced the thermostat as well. Bit harder, removed ice maker, 2 screws, back plate from freezer, 4 screws. Thermostat was clamped to a copper tube- the original had one of the wires hanging out of it- cut the wires and crimped the new wires on, shrunk the plastic tube with blow dryer over the wires (taped them for good measure) and so far so good. Learned most of this through these tips, so keep reading if this isn't your problem, just save myself $1000 on a new refrifgerator...

The repair was easy. The problem was the lack of explanation. This may help other customers. I was told by the virtual trouble shooting system that about 30% of the cure was to replace the water filter and 70% was to replace the water valve. I did both and still had the problem. People need to be told why they have to replace the water valve. The reason is this. The valve has a very small leak in it that lets water continue to flow into the freezer compartment drop by drop. Eventually, this freezes and clogs the hole , so no water can pass and thus no ice can be made.In either your web site or another they stated that it may freeze up here, but there was no connection to the water valve.It seemed like it was another topic. Its very hard to see the frozen area, unless you remove it from the freezer area. I wish I was TOLD TO DO THIS, after i replaced the valve It would have saved me a repair bill. I hope this helps others.
Take care-Bill

Replaced the old bins with the new bins...The most important part of the story was finding this website and locating and ordering the necessary components...that was amazing - a few clicks of the mouse and my new parts were on their way.

i removed the 4 screws holding cover. removed two screws holding timer. unplugged timer. plugged in new one. reassembled.

It takes a 1/4 " nutdriver to take one screw out that holds the cover over the water filter. You have to come up from the botton of cover. Then take two water lines off housing , by pushing the round collar back toward the fitting,and pull fitting off housing. Then take the two screw out that hold the housing on. Make sure you have the water turned off before you start.

Unplug turn water off
Removed two screws with nut driver loosen one
Disconnected three solenoid valves
Disconnected four water lines
Plug tubing in, tighten one flare fitting
Reattach wires to solenoids
Slide under loose screw, replace two screws
Turn water on check for leaks plug in get a drink of water

Loosen two screws, unclip electrical connection, remove ice maker, remove l shaped leveling piece of metal from old one, put on new one. Install in reverse order. Hint.. when loosening two screws, use a mirror

First, unplug the refrigerator since you're working with live wires.

Remove the 4 Philips sheet metal screws holding the plastic housing that holds the temperature control to the top of the refrigerator compartment. Pull the housing down then out since there is a tube on the housing where the water flows out the back of the refrigerator during the defrost cycle.

Remove the 2 Philips screws holding the defrost timer on the plastic housing. Pull the connectors off the old timer and attach them in exactly the same positions on the new defrost timer.

Attach the new defrost timer to the plastic housing with the 2 screws.

Reinstall the plastic housing, making sure the water tube is inserted into the back of the refrigerator wall.

Plug the refrigerator back in and you're done.

Test the light socket first with a bulb that you know is good. If the light still does not come on, unplug the refrigerator, remove the switch by inserting a very small, thin, flathead screwdriver alongside it and pull the switch out slowly with your other hand. There are two wires there. Remove them gently with some needle nose pliers. If you want to test to see if the switch is defective, take a insulated jumper wire, and attach it between the two wires. Plug the refrigerator back in and see if the light comes on. If the light does come on, replace with a new switch by re-attaching the wires and placing it back in the hole firmly.

Unpluged the item. Turned off the water source. Removed the card board cover. Dis-connected the water hoses. Unpluged the connetors. Matched up the colores and put it back together, very easy. Everythings was color coded.

I shut off the water supply and removed the 4 screws from the cardboard back revealing the water valve. I removed the 2 screws which attach the valve to the refrigerator and removed the water valve. Once out it was a snap to unplug the electrical leads and unscrewed the water lines, Insalling the new part was a matter of reversing the above procedure. Everything is color coded which made this replacement extrememly simple.

I will definitely use you guys in the future. The ordering process was great and delivery time was ultra quick!
Thanks for an easy part replacement and simple install.

Used exploded parts view to locate part. Removed old part and replaced with new defrost timer. Piece of cake.

first i removed the four screws that hold the shelve in place disconnected the wire replace both diffuser-air,reconnected the wire and replaced the screws