25357103600 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

After three years of cussing this 5-year old fridge for not ejecting the ice, and having to reach in and pull it out by hand, I fixed it with $100 and five minutes. Worse, I probably could have gotten Sears to honor the warranty and replace it when it first started acting up.

Repair could not have been easier. Loosened the two screws/fasteners with 1/4" drive socket set (straight-slot screwdriver wouldn't bite in the shallow slot). Do not remove screws completely; assy lifts up and off the screws for removal. Turn the unit slightly, unclip the electrical connector and remove. Installation is the reverse. Ensure assy sits flush on the screws to assure tray is level.

Although I probably could/should have unplugged the fridge first, I did not. I made sure the ice maker assy was off prior to installation to keep it from cycling on as I attached the ice maker electrical connector, which is before the remounting procedure.

Now it's making so much ice I have to find the plastic shelf cover for the ice bin to keep it from overflowing (which also helps move the ice level bar up to temporarily suspend ice production).

To access the part you have to remove the back panel of the freezer compartment from the inside of the freezer itself. There are four screws to this panel. I emptied the contents of the freezer, took of 2 shelves and brackets to gain access and removed the cover. Located the part , cut the wires with a wire cutter and left a small tail ....MAKE SURE TO UNPLUG REFRIG OF COURSE ... the part is clipped on the coils , added the new part. matched the color wires and added the connectors , crimped the wires and added a little electrical tape and put the panel and shelves back. THE REFRIG IS WORKING LIKE A CHARM

The repair was not my worry, but ordering the correct part. I was so pleased with this web site and the quick delivery of the part that I ordered. I easily found the bin I needed for my refrigerator and had the part at my doorstep with two days. I am extremely happy with this site.

OK, what I really want to talk about is the really poor quality of the fan motor. This is the third time that it has failed (about once per year). Local maintenance shops do not stock the motor, hence the frozen food thaws before they can get a part. I always keep a spare motor so that I can immediately repair the fridge.

The repair is very easy - remove all racks in the freezer and then remove their slides. Then remove the screws in the back plate. Due to the ice maker, the plate will not come out, so just pull it up and tie it off. Remove the screws to remove the motor fan assembly. I did the repair with the power on, BUT BE CAREFUL if you do so. Uplug the power from the motor, and remove the assembly from the freezer. Disamble and replace the motor. Then revese the above and you're freezing again.

Unplugged fridge, removed all screws from inside freezer panel. Removed bracket, fan blade and wires from evaporator motor and swapped motor with new one. Very easy. Professional repairman wanted almost $200 to fix it. Total cost for me was $35 and 25 minutes on a Saturday afternoon. Thanks PartSelect for the quick delivery, low price and tips on the replacement.

After unsuccessfully trying to change the blown light bulb I discovered that the plastic light socket had gotten so hot that it melted and permanently fused with the blown bulb. After my new socket arrived in the mail I just popped the temp control assembly out with a screw driver and removed the old socket and placed the new one in. Whole operation to 5 minutes.

Simply replaced the drawer cover (frame) of that shelf. Removed crisper drawer, removed glass shelf, removed frame, placed new frame in, then glass, then drawer. Very easy.

First I pulled the ice tray out so I could see the solenoid housing/ice tray support(1 unit). Below the ice tray there are 2 screws that hold the solenoid housing/ice tray support. After removing those the assembly lifts up so you can see the wiring harness to disconnect. I pulled it out and removed the 2 screws to open it up. There is 2 screws holding the solenoid in place and one ground wire. This was an easy fix and I know I saved a lot of money.

1.Unplugged appliance. Removed rear access panel, turned off water supply valve, removed two screws holding water valve assembly in place.
2. Removed and drained all water lines.
3. Removed three electric solenoid wiring connections.
4.Cut and marked all water lines to facilitate new connecting procedure (instructions provided with the new valve assembly).
5. Inserted the water lines into the new valve by applying a bit of vaseline on tubing end prior to pushing lines into O-ring fittings.
6. Clean the embarassing dust from under the appliance!!!

Note: All lines, wiring, and valves were color-coded to prevent connecting to wrong lines and electric solenoids.

Note: Be sure to remove water inlet supply trough to rear of ice-maker. This tube may freeze solid and prevent water from filling freeze tray. This is done by turning the inlet pipe on the back of the cabinet 1/4 turn and retracting from cabinet.

1) - removed the water tray.
2) - removed the three (3) screws hidden by water tray.
3) - removed entire dispenser faceplate by carefully sliding it up, and then pulling it out
CAUTION: there is a ribbon wire connector between the faceplate and the dispenser unit; carefully disconnect.
4) - removed screws retaining the dispenser unit in the door.
5) - disconnect water tube (exit) from the dispenser unit and remove dispenser unit.
6) - carefully disconnect water actuator (paddle) two-wire electrical connector.
7) - remove two small metal "hinge-cover" plates that retain the water actuator (paddle) and remove actuator.
8) - install new water actuator (paddle), reinstall the two small "hinge-cover" plates, connect the two-wire electrical connector, make sure the return-spring is connected to the new water actuator (paddle).
9) - HERE IS THE HARDEST PART - as you reinstall the dispender unit into the door, make sure to reinstall the VERY short water tube back through the dispenser opening - long, skinny fingers would be very helpful.
10) - The remaining reinstallation is pretty straight-forward (the reverse of removal).

The parts came within 2 days. The delivery was great. I took the food off the door, then removed the top hinge. Lifted door off bottom hinge and laid the door on a blanket on the floor. I then had access to the closing mechanism top and bottom that is just two plastic cams that lift the door as it opens. The weight of the door then is used on the cams to help close the door with the appliance level. It was very simple and assembly was just reverse order.

This issue was noted in the advice area as being a filter, or valve assembly. But it turned out to be a diode kit that was causing this issue. I don't know why I could not find this issue anywhere on line? When I received the diode kit there was instructions that noted exactly the problem I was having.
The fix was easy just a few wires cut and spliced and viola fixed.

1. Remove outer plastic face cover (4) screws.

2. Revove (1) U type nut keeper & (1) metal washer.

3. Remove (1) plastic nut on end of metal auger.

4. Remove inner plastic cover (4) screws and disconnect control rod. (Note postion of control rod befor disconnecting)

5. Note position and order of metal blades and plastic spacers on auger before siding off the end of auger to reposition them upon re-assembly.

6. Remove metal support panel from end of ice bucket (4) screws.

7. Remove auger & plastic cylinder from ice bucket.

8. Remove - slide drive blade off auger.

9. Drive blade replaced.

10. Re-assembled other items removed in reverse order

I pulled out all the screws and from the freezer side and remove the panel, then I located the thermostat snap the old one out and put the new one in.

Removed 4 screws holding face plate onto ice bucket. Removed the 3 screws holding the ice crusher housing. Noted postion and rotation of teh s;ring loaded ice selecting rod. Removed broken crusher housing. Reveresed process for installion. Took for test drive. Operational...