25354364402 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

Turned off power at C/B panel. Took cover off dispenser, removed 3 screws, board held in by 4 screws. Removed all 4, replaced board after removing connecter. Put back together. Turned power on. Worked perfectly. 15 minutes max, part was $81, recieved 3 days after ordered.

First removed the drip tray with a firm tug, Then removed the 2 screws to remove the trim, had to remove the board to get get to the connector. (there is a clip that holds the wire tight) connected the new ribbon cable and secured it with the clip, screwed the board back in and pushed in the other end of the cable. and screwed the trim back and the drip tray. surprisingly Very easy to do.

Most of the time was spent removing frozen food and removing the plastic clip holding one of the shelves in place. Removal of bottom panel took less than a minute. Thermostat easy to find, clipped wires a the unit and removed unit. Used included wire jackets, but not white shrink wrap. This did NOT fix the problem. This was the attempt at a 'cheap' fix. My refrigerator required the 'control box' to be replaced.

Removed the cover inside the freezer. Found out that the motor/fan was not working. Ordered through PartSelect. Got the parts in 3 days. Installed it for less than 30 minutes. Very easy. It saved me hundreds of dollars. We considered buying a new fridge but not anymore. , it only cost me $70 including shipment charges. (Make sure you unplug the appliance first before opening the cover. Remember safety first.)

The shelving brackets are install much like a blind rivet. I simply used a punch and gently pushed in the plastic center pin / mandrel. I then used a butter knife as a wedge to pull out the shelving supports enough to grab them with a pair of pliers. Simple to do!

Moved the refrig. out, removed the four screws that held the lower access panel in place. Disconnected the power cord. Removed the retainer clip wire and pulled the relays from the compressor socket. Separated the relays and installed the secondary relay on the new starter relay. Reinstalled the starter relay assembly into the compressor socket. Plugged the power cord in and listened for the compressor to cycle on. It cycled on and continued to run. Turned the power off and reinstalled the retainer clip wire. Reinstalled the access panel and plugged the power back in and left the refrig. run overnight. Checked temperature and also started the ice maker. Everything was normal by morning.

The 4 lines attached to water valve have compression fittings.New valve has pex fittings.I cut each line just behind the ferrel and inserted each line into the proper fitting and reattached the 3 electrical plugs.Turned water back on.I immediately got water from thr door without dripping.For whatever reason it was not making ice for the first 3 days,I pulled the plug on the icemaker solenoid and reattached.It is working now.

First of all Don't panic! you can do it and you can save a lot of $$$ if you do it yourself. A friend advice me to look it up online resources and came accross part select on YouTube .

The process:
Defrost the fridge. Take down the panels on the fridge to have room to unscrew the back panels. Once you've taken the back panel out. You will see the thermostat right away. Replace it and voila you're done.

-unplug power cord.(safety first!
-Removed evaporator cover in freezer. found defrost thermostat defective.
-use hair dryer to manually defrost coil from ice build-up.
-unclip thermostat from coil.
-cut wires close to the defrost thermostat; remove defective thermostat.
-clip on new defrost thermostat.
-connect wires using included butt connectors including shrink tubing (also included)
-replace coil cover.
-plug power cord back in.

Replaced the plastic/nylon piece on the door. First, I remove the door hinge cover by unscrewing the one bolt. Second, unbolted the two bolts that hold the door in place. Third, lifted the door off the bottom hinge. Four, remove the bottom plate that is held in place by 3 screws. Five, using pliers move the old plastic piece from the bottom of the door. Six, press into place the replacement part. Seven, re-install the bottom plate. Eight, rehang the door on the bottom hinge. Nine, restall the top hinge and rebolt the two bolts that hold the hinge in place. Ten, reinstall the top cover. Finished.

Removed the two screws that hold the element in place. Then I pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the wires. Everything matched up perfectly.

Removed the door and installed ne bushing on bottom of hinge

take out screws front control panel ,then screws on left panel holding control unit. had to clean up plastic she got a little toasty. unhooked control unit replaced with new and reassembled. The real story is in your excellent web site easy to find exactly what I need and with prompt shipping, I was back in service quicker than having someone come out and repair.

Great Job
Jeff Baker

Removed supports with pliers and used center punch to push broken plugs out of hole and inserted the new supports.

The ice maker would over floew then not cycle it would freeze with the forks stuck in the ice! so just get your modle # and serl, # call in and order the hole ice maker it cost only about $120.00 with shipping!! it is so simple to put in just lossen the 2 1/4 screws in the back and lift up then unplug it. you do not have to turn the water off as it works off the pump at the bottem !!( note you nedd to take the ice bucket out it just slides right out !! You will save the service call from A repair man it is really very easy so by the time it took to read this you will have it done !really its that easy!!