25348027894 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

removed the screws/nuts; pulled the back panel off, removed the old thermostat (wires just popped apart) replaced the new thermostat (wires just popped back on) replaced the back panel and the nuts and TaDa!!

I removed the drawer fronts from the old drawers and slid them onto the new drawers. My fridge is like new again and the repair was a lot less expensive than buying a new one. My drawers arrived the day after I ordered them!!

Simply popped the new end caps into place with the old guard and now it is tight and secure. Easy Peasy. Of course all this is after the operator at PartSelect ordered the right part for me; I had ordered the freezer door end cap, not what I wanted. I received the correct part the very next morning. Returning the wrong part was a breeze too.

Removed the vent cover at the bottom. Removed the screws. disconected the harnes and put the new timer in. This was a very easy fix. Thank You!

Had to remove all screws on rear back cover of freezer inside, unplugged refridgerator, uncliped thermostat, unpluged thermostat. Replaced thermostat with new one in the same location, and let defrost fulley. Reassembled, pluged in, and tested. All was good. But I did also replace timer at first part of the repair so I suggest you replace both at the same time.

Put the end caps on the metal bar and put it on the freezer door and it snapped right in.

Very easy to do in less then 4 minutes to do both shelves.

Thank you very much.

We took the door off and replaced the pastic washer. Found out that the repair people never informed us that the door itself has a bit damaged so this repair would have to be done over and over. Nice way for them to make money off us.
We were able to fix it so that it will last a LONG time. Sometimes it realy can pay to do-it-yourself!

Found the part on this site ordered and received part in 3 days. Took approx. 10 min to replace. Thanks for the quick service.

A little research told me the hum plus no cooling was either the compressor or the relay. I ordered the new relay and put it in but it didn't fix the problem. I ended up having to buy a new fridge, but it was worth the $30 gamble to see if I could fix it on the cheap and it saved me the money a service call would've cost. Pretty easy installation, just in a tight space on my model.

They were the wrong parts. I read a question another person asked and it advised to order these parts. Didn't want to waste my time anymore and threw them away.

Assembled brackets and pressed into place on refrigerator door

Remove the cardboard access cover at the bottom back of the fridge. On the left side, locate the run capacitor. Remove it by prying it loose from its socket, after first removing the wire hold down clamp. One wonders why the clamp is there, which makes it difficult to get the run capacitor out. Be careful not to disrupt in any way the copper refrigerant tubes. If you mess them up, you will have wasted your time and effort trying to repair the machine. I was lucky, since a failed run capacitor is the problem only about 12% of the time, based on what I’ve read. Hallelujah! It was the problem with my fridge.

Installed salvaged pan cover edge guards from broken pan cover. I installed new pan cover in grid.

freezer section remove ice trays ,shelves,unplug ice tray.use 1/4 nut driver remove back panel,use hair dryer thaw ice from evap coil ,unplug tstat remove install new one.plug in ice maker,put back panel back on ,ice maker and shelves plug refridgerator back in

Unplugged fridge, opened the door, used flat head screwdriver to pop off old switch, unplugged wires, plugged in new switch, popped it back in, and plugged the fridge back in. 2 minute fix.