25344763704 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

After silencing the alarm, it seemed to be running as normal without any unusual noises, but food was starting to thaw from the top shelf on down and condensation was dripping from the roof. We were able to place most of the food in 2 large ice chests and then the rest in the freezer compartments of 2 fridges we have in the house. I then turned down the temp dial to the coldest setting and let it run for an hour or so; no change.

After researching on the internet, it sounded like our symptoms could be pointing to a defrost timer issue. I pulled the freezer away from the wall, located the timer and used a large screwdriver to slowly advance it. While doing this, at one point I could hear the compressor kick in. I pushed the quick freeze button and let it run for a while. When I checked it in a few hours, the alarm light had gone out and water that I had placed inside was frozen. We took a chance and put the food we placed in the ice chests back in the freezer. Everything was fine several hours later.

I ordered a new defrost timer, it arrived in a couple of days, and replaced the old one with it in a matter of minutes by disconnecting the wire harness from the old timer, removing the 2 screws holding it onto the bracket, screwing the new timer to the bracket, reconnecting the wires harness, and done. It's been a week or so and no problems.

Unplugged unit from power source. Emptied the vegetable crisper and the removed crisper including the permanently fixed mounts on either lower wall of the unit which are retained with screws. Removed temperature control knob. Then removed interior back panel that covers cooling panel and controller. Carefully work panel loose as it is very thin and bendable metal. Note gaskets at each end of the panel and save for re-install. After working panel loose carefully find controller and pinch the mounting bracket of the controller which allows it to release from the panel. Now you may set panel out of the way and continue disassembling the controller. It has a thermal wire that is mounted to the back of the fridge wall with a screw clam. Note position and shape then remove. Remove ground and power connections noting position of each. Take new controller and attach ground and power connection. Bend thermal wire using thumb as a shaper to exacting shape of the old one and position in clamp and secure with screw. Note old controller had a Styrofoam cover and return this cover after attaching new controller to the cover panel. After this, reposition the cover panel and retain with screws but don't tighten screws all the way as you need to be able to shift panel while replacing gaskets at the ends. Place the end gaskets where they originally were and work both in until they seat. Tighten screws on the panel. Replace crisper and plug in. Good luck it fixed mine and the unit works great.

Turned freezer off at themostat and unplugged freezer. Removed 2 screws at front 2 at the back and 2 at the top. Lowered top cover and removed evaporator fan bracket (2 more screws) removed themostat capulary tube( 1 screw and bracket) then unplug fan motor. Removed motor from bracket (2 screws). Put on new fan motor then removed fan blade from old motor and put on the new motor. Remounted fan motor bracket and thermostat capulary tube. Remounted top cover, plugged freezer in the set the thermostat to 4 and freezer is working fine and doing its job. I orderedmotor on a Sunday and it was shipped on Monday and I received said part at 7:pm on Wednesday.

slid freezer away from wall - - bottom left hand corner was the frost timer - - removed two philip head screws - - unpluged timer and installed new timer - - turned timer past first click to a little past second click (freeze cycle) - - slid freezer back FINISHED - - YOU GUYS ARE THE BEST WITH YOUR WEB PAGE AND HELP!!!!! Next day freezer was at 0

Moved the refrig. out, removed the four screws that held the lower access panel in place. Disconnected the power cord. Removed the retainer clip wire and pulled the relays from the compressor socket. Separated the relays and installed the secondary relay on the new starter relay. Reinstalled the starter relay assembly into the compressor socket. Plugged the power cord in and listened for the compressor to cycle on. It cycled on and continued to run. Turned the power off and reinstalled the retainer clip wire. Reinstalled the access panel and plugged the power back in and left the refrig. run overnight. Checked temperature and also started the ice maker. Everything was normal by morning.

Watched the defrost timer to see that it wasnt moving, looked the part number up on your site and it even had a picture of it so I knew I was getting what I needed, ordered it when it came I took out the screws holding it in place unplugged old one and plugged in the new one, freezer works like new... :))

One day my freezer's overtemp light/warning came on. I knew the compressor was working properly (as it was still running) and that there were no leaks.

I was able to research about how this freezer worked and learned of this mechanical timer on the back of the freezer. It turns on/off the defrost mode of the freezer.

I manually turned the knob on the back to see if I could get the freezer to defrost. Turns out the timer was no longer working and when I manually ran the defrost, the freezer started to freeze again.

I just replaced this part and my freezer is working like norma.. Simple as all it takes is a few screws and you are done.

After earlier determing that the starter switch was at fault, I removed the cardboard lower back panel, shut off water to the ice maker, removed water line. The plug to the compressor containing the switch and capacitor was held on by a spring clip, removed clip pulled wires from old switch (Here needle nose pliars are handy as the spade clips on the 2 wires have their own locking clips) replaced switch and all wiring, tested unit and problem solved.

I knew that the problem had to do with the timer so I went online and looked at the schematic diagrams on Partselect and identified the part that should handle the problem. I ordered it and it arrived fairly quickly. It took a Phillips screw driver and about fifteen minutes to remove the old part and replace it with the new one. Very easy repair. It is working as it should now.

Removed evap cover from Commercial Refrigerator. Removed mounting screws from Evap motor mount. Replaced evap fan motor. Repositioned. Reinstalled evap cover. Tested . This motor was hard to find locally. Glad I called.

Looking on-line at your diagnostic for this problem, I saw the most common part to cause this problem was the start capacitor, so I purchased one & installed it with no positive outcome. I then purchased the next recommended part which was a defrost timer & installed it with no run again. Frustrated, I looked at another diagnostic web site that claimed 90% of the time the problem is caused by the cold control thermostat. I tested mine and it tested bad, so I bought a control elsewhere, since your site did not list a PN for that device. I installed the new control and the freezer started up correctly. Looking at the wiring diagram for these parts, I see the start capacitor and defrost control are downstream of the cold control thermostat, and to my mind should have been the first part recommended for testing versus the parts I bought, so I am somewhat disappointed in the diagnostics on your site, where I spent about $80 for parts that were functional.

Replaced defrost thermostat and defrost timer on my commercial Kelvinator freezer. Took out screws inside freezer compartment that hold panel at top inside freezer.Once the screws were removed I pulled out the thermostat dial so the panel was free to drop down and expose coils to the freezer that were located in the top rear of the inside freezer compartment.The defrost thermostat was located on the top of the coil to the top left as you face the inside of the Kelvinator KFS220RHY1 freezer. Very easy unplug old and plug in new defrost thermostat. Also replaced timer located in the back side of the freezer down near the middle of the bottom of the freezer near the compressor. There were two nuts holding the timer in the back of the freezer once I took those out I just unplugged the old timer and plugged the new timer in ....very simple fix. I have only run my freezer for a week since I replaced both parts but so far all is working well.

I removed the shelves, unscrewed the cover panel of the fan motor and regulator dial, disconnected the fan motor from power, unscrewed 2 screws holding the motor to the mounting bracket and put the new motor in it's place. New motor had no thread in the mounting holes, so I put new tread in so I could use the 2 screws. Another option would have been to drill all the way through the mounting holes and use longer screws or bolts. Of course I turned the power off before I started repairs. Freezer runs like new now. Technicians wanted $400 for the job, while it cost me a mere $55 for the Motor.

Unscrewed the lower back cardboard panel and removed it. Unplugged refrigerator. Reached in and took the metal piece off that keeps the starter from coming off. Pulled the starter off the compressor. Unplugged the starter from the power line. Replaced starter. Hooked power line back on. Hooked starter to the compressor. Put the metal piece back on to hold in place. Plugged refrigerator back in. Put back panel back on.

Removed the old defrost timer by removing 4 screws on the holding bracket. Disconnected the wire harness. Reconnected the wire harness to the new part. Installed the new part with 2 screws on the top of the molded bracket. I am a 67 year old woman... easy-peasy. (the defost timer is located in the bottom left rear of the freezer.