25331430104 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

replaced it

Unplugged fridge. Removed freezer shelves and unscrewed and removed plastic shelf brackets. Removed the lower rear panel. Removed the bin for ice. Removed the 2 exposed upper rear panel screws. At this point I was able to flex the panel quite enough to access the fan motor. Carefully plugged the fridge back in and turned it on long enough to verify the existing evap. fan motor was not running. Powered off and unplugged again. Removed the fan and it's support assembly, and replaced with new. Had to cut the wires and splice and crimp with the provided wire nuts since the plugs in this model were different. Powered on fridge to check fan function. Reassemble and go home looking' like a hero! Saved my BFF a couple hundred bucks.

The evaporator coil is behind the freezer. Remove the rack that makes the shelf and remove two 1/4” hex head screws I the back of the freezer to access the coil.
I used a hair dryer to melt the ice off the coil.
The thermostat clips on the refrigeration pipe to the coil. Remove the old thermostat and cut the wires at least a few inches from the thermostat. Clip the new thermostat on the pipe and strip about a 1/4” of the wire ends. The electrical connectors (provided with the new part) must be crimped to connect the wires.

This was so easy it took longer to open the door than it did to install the rack. WOW. Nice to see something fits without messing with it. Thanks.

had it done in 5 seconds!!

Super easy it took no more than 5 minutes to replace the fridge door racks. Starting from opening the box when it arrived to closing the fridge door with the new racks in place. no tools needed, except a knife to open the box.

The switch prevented the door from closing about 5 years ago. So I just taped the switch down, and lived without a fridge light for the last 5 years. Painful! And wasteful (food spoiled because we couldn't see it.) Thought I was out of luck, assuming light switches were all the same, got fed up again, and pulled out old switch,,and searched the net for the part number, and just started calling the manufacturer. I got this website after no luck in calling, and took the step to order...and in no time, got it replaced, and we cam see now! It feels like we got a new fridge!

I removed the door actuated light switch with my index finger and thumb on my right hand. I then removed the two wires from the switch. I noticed that the new switch had different look to it,I think Frigidaire must have had a problem with the original design of the switch. Reassembly was just replacing the two wires and putting the new switch in place, and no more door closing problem.

take 1/4 hex screws out clean out dust ,remove old fan blade replace with new install bolts .

Had my 3 year old remove the 4 screws to holds the carboard in place. Pryde the old fan blade off with a screwdriver. slid the new fan blade on to the shaft then my 3 year old put the screws back in.

I removed the back panel ,cardboard-three screws,pushed the old fan blade off the motor and pushed the new fan on.Extremely easy.

Not long after we bought this fridge, the plastic on the light switch cracked, making the lever stick out too much so that the door wouldn't close. It's been taped down ever since. I simply pulled the old switch out and plugged the new one in. I'm kicking myself that I didn't do this ages ago. It was so easy and now I can see inside my refrigerator again.

Unplugged frig. removed old switch with the aid of screw driver. removed wires and taped; plugged frig. back in and waited for new one. new one came, unplugged frig.removed tape from wire clips plugged in to switch and pushed switch into socket hole and plugged frig. back in; shut door, works like a new one.

When my side by side Kenmore refrigerator quit keeping the top half of my freezer and refrigerator cold I called Sears to see how much it would cost to get it checked out and fixed. Bottom line it was going to cost minimum $65 (which was just for him to come out) to $250 on up depending on what the problem was. So i decided to "do it myself"! I took it apart and within a few minutes figured out that it was my evaporator fan. So I went to sears to order the part based on the part number and with shipping and handling it was going to cost $125. While at sears I got on one of their computers and quickly looked up Kenmore parts and partselect.com came up and I quickly found the part for $62 and I chose overnight delivery and spent a total of like $83. When my part arrived I realized that the wiring/plug ins didn't quite match up. So I got online and went to their website and found a video for "do it yourself'ers" like me on how to splice the wiring to make it match. It took me about 20 min to splice the wire and put my refrigerator back together and IT WORKED! Easy easy easy and I saved moocho bucks! Ill never pay a repairman again. Oh and by the way, I am blond! :-)

The website said 60% of people with same refrigerator problem solved the problem with a new fan kit. I received the fan kit within 3 days of ordering. Was shipped from Fresno, CA to Long Beach, WA. The fan kit was to be installed behind rear panel in the freezer compartment. When I removed the old fan motor, I noticed the shaft turned harder than the new fan motor, suggesting a problem with the old fan motor. I plugged in the obvious fan motor power bundle with no problem. The instructions and diagram with the kit nearly steered me wrong. Instructions, diagram and splices with the kit instructed to cut the "extra" wire bundle and splice "similar" wires (should have said same color wires). Luckily, I ignored those instructions when I remembered the U-Tube video depicted the extra wire bundle was to be inserted into a factory penetration in the back panel, facing the freezer compartment. This power bundle is for adding an ice maker, which my refrigerator did not have. When reassembled and the refrigerator restarted, I could immediately feel forced air in the refrig, where there was no flow before fixing. I observed that all the refrig and freezer dials do is act like a valve to increase or decrease air flow to the compartments. The dials have no mechanical or electrical connections, just designed to divert air flow from across the cold 'evaporator' fins. I recommend other consumers to remember carefully what they see in the video and watch again if stumped during the job. The video was better than the instructions which may have been written in China or India. I am happy. Repair was a lot cheaper than a new refrigerator and I would not have bought another Frigidaire. Thanks to this website. r. andersen