25329082991 Kenmore Freezer - Instructions

I first noticed my ice cream getting soft. Then 2 days later the alarm went. I emptied the freezer, opened the panels and saw no frost. I saw that 99% of issues were resolved with a defrost timer and thermostat so I ordered those. I have to say the parts came quickly and they went in very easy. My freezer seems to be in the 1% category though. It's still not cooling even though I can measure the temperature at the front of the evaporator coil is cold but by the end of the coil it's almost room temperature. I think a repairman is called for.

Notice ice build up on the panel in front of the evaporator coil. Unplugged freezer and removed evaporator panel. Plugged unit back in and checked fan, coil "snap switch" and heater element, all seemed to check out good. Found defrost timer stuck in the freeze position, causing frost to accumulate over the evaporator. Manually rotated defrost timer to the 30min defrost cycle and system went into defrost. Ordered defrost timer and installed (part arrived in 3 days). Freezer works great again. Too bad I ended up throwing 400 dollars worth of meat away. the fix was very simple. Will definitely use PartSelect again. Thank you.

I watched the videos (they really help) and followed the steps. Everything went smooth with no surprises

there were three possible problems the timer, the thermostat, or the heating element.i replaced the timer first as that is the problem 65% of the time and that did not fix the problem, i replaced the thermostat and that did fix the problem. after watching the video on line from parts select i took the back off of the freezer from the inside, defrosted the coils with a hair blower and then swapped out the thermostat which pops right off and i spliced the old connectors to the new thermostat. the heat shrink tubing that came with the part was a little to big so i put a smaller peice on each side for water proofing. that is what the cigarette lighter is for to supply heat to the heat shrink tubing.now that i have fixed that problem i may tackle the ice maker next

I used a pick to remove the lugs from the old starter. Clicked them right in the new one and it went to woking!!!

Removed three screws each side to remove old slides. Needed spacers under new slide so that drawer would stay on track. Cut old slide to make spacers and installed both slides in 15 mins.

1. Unplug the refrigerator.2. Remove the storage rack and back panel in the freezer. 3. Locate the thermostat. 4. Defrost the freezer coils , i used a hair dryer. 5. Remove the thermostat from the cooling coil and then clip the connecting wires close to the unit. 6. Strip the ends of these wires and connect these wires to the wires of the replacement unit using the supplied wire connectors. 6. Heat seal with a lighter the connections using the water shield sleeves provided and further wrap connections with electrical tape. 7. Reconnect the thermostat to the cooling coil at the location it was removed from. 8. Replace the freezer back panel removed earlierand the storage rack if you have one. 9. Plug the freezer back in. My refrigerator has been working ever since the repair. There are several YouTube videos available that walk you through the diagnoses and repair process. They are very good.

Upluged power pulled freezer out from wall removed the two screws that holds the defrost timer unpluged defrost timer pluged new timer in mounted new timer back with the two screws pluged freezer back in and job was complete. Freezer working fine.

After reading other posts, I decided to change the defrost thermostat, so I watched the videos, and did that. It got better, but the problem persisted, and the ice was still building up in the freezer section. So I decided that the problem was with the defrost heater. I ordered a new one, that was here under 24hs (using the Fedex ground). I replaced it, measured the old one and saw that it was not passing any current at all (so it was really burnt). Now the fridge is good as new, maintaining the proper temperatures both at Freezer and Fridge sections. Thank you Parts Select ! With $ 70 in parts I was able to get back my appliance working !!!

Removed 2 screws holding front bottom vent grille. . Through opening behind grille found broken part of switch hanging on wires. Removed wires from switch and fed them out through hole for mounting switch, connected wire and pushed into place. The greatest difficulty encountered was my 82 year old knees.

I replaced the defrost timer,defrost thermostat,and run cap.as it turned out the compressor went bad. I dont know the model because but the time I got this review I replaced the refer with a knew one . two weeks living out of coolers was so much fun !!!!!!!!

per the video..easy installation....unfortunately the temperature did not improve. We still have a refrigerator temp in the upper freezer.....and a "cooler" in the refrigerator section

Removed bottom cover , just two screws , slid old part through install hole and removed wires from old switch and installed on new switch. Installed new switch in same hole and pushed gently until it locked in place. Reinstalled bottom cover and done.

I should have ordered start kit instead of start capacitor. The start cap astir did not fix problem so I ordered kit. Compasator comes as part of kit. Followed enclosed instructions. Cut existing wires and reconnected new wiring. Simple as that. It's a plug in item. Now worried it may be working to good. Freezer down to 10 deg. Watching to see if compressor is running to long. Seems ok lol. Wife hates me now. She wanted new frige.

Unplug the refrigerator unit from wall. I removed freezer rack, plastic light cover, the ice rack shelf on the right side, then removed the plastic back cover panel, (4) retaining screws, gently tilting the panel toward me, unplug the wiring harness by depressing the clips on the side of the plug, removed panel from unit, set aside. If the unit was froze up, so I defrosted the cooling coils carefully with a common hair dryer until it was thawed. Be careful not to touch or bend the coils , since they are very fragile and SHARP! I located the old thermostat unit attached to a straight length of coolant line. The new unit looked like the old one, so it was easy to locate. I cut the two wires of the old unit close to the round base to make sure I would have enough wire to reconnect. Since my new unit did not indicate a polarity(Neg or Pos), I just wired each wire I cut to one of the new unit. I used the shrink tubing provided and heated the shrink till it was fully melted. I double ck'd to see if the wires were basically waterproof and a good connect. Also, before I replaced the rear panel, I made sure that both wires I had spliced had a drip loop to it so water would not drip down into the newly spliced union. Also made sure the wires will not interfere with the colling fan on the back of the rear panel. Reverse the procedure in reassembling. Plug in unit, and wait and listen for the unit coming back on..I kept a regular thermometer in the upper and lower compartments. Allow 24 hrs. for the unit to return to normal operation. It may defrost several times till the whole operation is back in sync.