25321421100 Kenmore Freezer - Instructions

My issue was water leaking from the door. I thought it was the gasket, so I removed the gasket and the entire panel off of the door. There was water behind it that had soaked the cardboard seal, so I left that front part off for over a week to let it dry. We determined between us and our two toddlers that perhaps the door hadn't been properly closed enough on a number of occasions, so before I bought a $100 gasket, I'd try making sure the door was shut with tape, turning the freezer on and seeing what happened. There was no water after a few days, so on another user's suggestion I purchased the $15 key and twist tied it to the freezer door. Now I am locking the door after use so we won't have leaking water any longer.

Replaced defrost thermostat and defrost timer on my commercial Kelvinator freezer. Took out screws inside freezer compartment that hold panel at top inside freezer.Once the screws were removed I pulled out the thermostat dial so the panel was free to drop down and expose coils to the freezer that were located in the top rear of the inside freezer compartment.The defrost thermostat was located on the top of the coil to the top left as you face the inside of the Kelvinator KFS220RHY1 freezer. Very easy unplug old and plug in new defrost thermostat. Also replaced timer located in the back side of the freezer down near the middle of the bottom of the freezer near the compressor. There were two nuts holding the timer in the back of the freezer once I took those out I just unplugged the old timer and plugged the new timer in ....very simple fix. I have only run my freezer for a week since I replaced both parts but so far all is working well.

Very simple repair. Removed the bail that holds the compressor controller and run capacitor from the compressor, removed the controller & capacitor, inserted a very small screwdriver into the controller to compress the barbs that hold the electrical wires to the controller. Plugged in the wires to the new controller in the same position as the original, plugged in the capacitor and then plugged the entire unit back onto the compressor, replaced the wire bail, plugged in the freezer and repair was complete.

Removed evaporator cover, unplug 2 wires to thermostat, unclipped it from the coil. Installed new themostat back the same way.

I replaced the timer and the defrost thermostat. The defrost thermostat replacement was almost exactly like the training video here. The old part attached slightly differently. The most time consuming part was thawing out the heat exchanger, which was completely covered with ice, inside and out.

Compared to the training video, the timer took more work given its location. It was low to the ground and a bit difficult to get at around the other wires and parts. However, the new part fit perfectly. I just unplugged and unscrewed the old part then reversed those steps with the new one.

Removed the old defrost timer by removing 4 screws on the holding bracket. Disconnected the wire harness. Reconnected the wire harness to the new part. Installed the new part with 2 screws on the top of the molded bracket. I am a 67 year old woman... easy-peasy. (the defost timer is located in the bottom left rear of the freezer.

I first replaced the defrost timer about a week prior and it did not correct the problem. I then ordered the thermostat from partselect and within 15 minutes had the part installed. My refridgerator has been running correctly for a couple weeks.

First I removed the clamp, pulled out the part, and diconnected the two wires on the side and a small screw. Reconnected the new part with the small screw, connected the wires and plugged the part back to the side of the motor. Whaa La, Done.

I order another one thanks

Parts Select included a video, and I watched a couple more that were on YouTube. Watch the video and do the repair . . . it's very easy took me about 35 min once I got the freezer emptied, including cleaning the freezer. I used a Philips head screw driver and I think it was a 5/16 nut driver . . . you can do this. Freezer running fine, no noise. One thing I would be careful on is removing the back plate that covers the fan and motor, the edges can be sharp and you could cut yourself removing the back plate. Also don't try to put the rubber gasket in before you replace the back plate, install the back plate and the rubber gasket goes in easy peasy :)

As per instructions.removed inside shelves.removed back cover over coil let thaw.removed old thermostat &clips as per instructions.replaced with new.

Took longer to take out the shelves and the 10 screws holding the cover on then to replace the fan.
Local parts supply told me it would take two weeks to get the fan mator,ordered it from parts select and had in a couple days.

Needed a Phillips head screwdriver to remove bottom plate (kick panel). UNPLUGGED FREEZER. Removed plate pulled switch out through the mounting hole and unhooked the two electric wires. Placed wires on new switch, pushed wires back through the hole and seated the switch. Plugged in the freezer and opened the door - magic, the light came on. Replaced the front kick panel (hardest part was to line up the plate holes with the holes in the mounting bracket).

Removed existing part, tested it, found it to be defective. OrderEd a new one and replaced the existing one.

Removed shelves ,removed panel on interior back wall with Philips screwdriver ,unplugged wire terminals slid thermostat off coil ,then reversed process to complete installation.