2-A Y Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

Removed shelving,ice maker & other air deverters to get at fan motor. Disconnected power, then removed motor by removing screws holding motor assembly in place. Push fan blade on to motor reconnect wiring.
Chirping stopped and ice cream is now rock hard.

Food door gasket was more time consuming than hard. Loosen old gasket screws with not driver. Gasket is then easily removed. Reinstall gasket, but keep retaining strips loose so you can adjust gasket for a correct fit.

It was so easy!

Thanks for the rush to my home on the part.

I just unscrewed the plate that locks in the light switch (screwdriver) and unplugged the old faulty part and plugged in the new switch, screwed the cover back on and I was done!

Easy!

And I am not Mr. Fix-it!

i had used your web site before and i read several problems that your readers had. i went to the back of the unit, removed the bottom cover and right there the i found the run capacitor and i chaged it. since i had only ordered this part to save money i went back and ordered the Start Device which when i took it off it was completely burned. the replacement part came labeled with 2 different compressor #, so i picked the one that i had and unpluged each wire. the part may differ from the one that it's in the unit but it worked when i pluged everything back on. it also helps to take a picture of everything before removing the wires in case you have to leave it and come back later. i hope to use this refrigerator another 10 years. thank you all for your help.

Used a screw driver to pull old switch. Pulled one wire at a time, only two wires. After wires instlled to new switch push new one back in place where the old one was.

Followed Door Removal instructions by removing the Top Screws from the Cabinet. Lifted Door OFF the Metal Hinge. Unscrewed both Lower and Upper Cams from the Hinge and Door. Replaced with new after coating with Vasoline. Lifted Door back in place with help from Wife. Only problem was guiding the Door back onto the Hinge. Works fine. Two year old Frig. This is a design problem, as the cams should last longer than 22 months.

Went on line ,ordered part on Friday afternoon ,Fedex was at my house Saturday Morning,,THIS SERVICE IS GREAT ,,THANK YOU VERY MUCH FOR BEING SO FAST

I simply removed the old switch using 2 small screwdrivers and the old switch case popped out. I then upluged the wires from the old switch and reversed the process. Didn't take longer than 5 minutes begining to end! Thank you for the great service! Duncan quaid

Removed the top plastic hinge cover, remove (2) bolts from top hinge. Lifted door up and off of lower hinge, removed both halves of door cam, replaced cam halves and re-installed door. Super easy and effective. Door now opens and closes (stays closed) properly.

Removed the old timer from the housing. The replacement came with good instructions. I followed the instructions corresponding to the color wires in my unit. The first time it was installed, the fridge did not come on and the temperature rose after a couple hours. Looked at the part and realized the defrost cycle must have kicked in. Needed to slightly turn the gray slotted part to initiate the timer so it would stop the defrost and start the fridge. That did it! It must have advanced the timer so it could accumulate run time. Whole repair saved us $3000 in a new fridge.

The refrigerator light in our Kenmore fridge has been flaky for a number of years. The slightest bump would knock it out of the hole it fits into leaving the bulb dangling. Usually since we were used to it, we could avoid bumping it so it was no real problem, but a recent visitor bumped it and it once again was hanging. I decided this time, to take a serious look at it and fix the problem for real. I had options, duct tape, hot glue gun, goop...or a new part! A quick search on the internet, and I found www.PartSelect.com I entered my model # , quickly found the correct part number. The part came 1 1/2 days after I ordered it. The repair was very simple, I unplugged the fridge, removed the wires from the spade connectors on the old light socket, and attached them to the new socket. I then pushed the socket into the hole, and with new spring clips, it snapped snuggly into place. The socket came with extra wire connectors which I didn't need, the socket fits multiple brands of appliances. It also came with a bulb protector, but that wasn't needed for my fridge either. I was very pleased with the speed and ease of the repair. No more dangling light bulbs!

First, I removed the two thermostat knobs, then the snap-on plastic cover. Then, I removed the 4 screws holding the housing for the timer, thermostats, etc., and dropped it down enough to remove the timer and the wiring harness going into it. Installing the new one was the same process, in reverse. Quite simple!

lifted door 1/2 inch and put blocks of wood under the door and replaced the lower hindge cam.

First defrosted it to makes sure all Air flow was opened. Tested the Defroster heater with omh meter, it was OK. Found the location of the defrost timer on the online diagrams. Used nut driver to remove cover.
Replaced timer. The hardest part was decieding how to wire it up, tis was a universal kit and depending on how it was wired as to how often the defrost ran. The firt choice was every 8 hours. Since this was going to be opened often, I picked that one.
Plugged it with in 24 hrs freezer wall mesured -5 and the fridge was at 30, so had to warm it up a bit.
Now all complaints gone, Ice making has been doing better also.

Remove all items from the door shelves. Removed the top hinge cover and removed hinge mounting screws. Lifted door off bottom hinge and laid it on its side. I then replaced bottom hinge cam by removing (1) cap screw. Very simple job.

Removed the 2 screws holding the light bulb shield, then the 4 uolding the metal panel. Unplugged the olw door switch and replaced.
reassembled the pieces.