1985818150 Kenmore Freezer - Instructions

I removed the two hoses connected to the valve, then I removed the front panel by removing two screws on the bottom. I disconnected a drum hose connected to the top, tilted the top back, then separated the inlet valve from its metal housing by removing the screws holding it in place. I then removed the metal housing in order to have mor ... Read more e access to the old valve. At this point, the valve was only held in place by a few wires. I noted which wires connected where and how the valve was oriented (Hot/Cold position), then removed the wire connections with pliers by grasping the connectors (not the wires). I then reversed this process to install the new valve.

New parts matched up perfectly. Undid screws holding old igniter, hardest part of procedure because one screw was frozen and broke off. Pulled stove out and new igniter"s connector was identical. Pushed stove back into place and it lighted on the first try.

I order a water inlet valve from this site It was the best buy around. The email from the site part came with a video how to change it. It was a 15 minute job. One 5/16 nut driver to remove the inlet valve and pliers to remove the hoes from the valve. Easy off easy on.

Removed bottom tray of oven, unscrewed gas pipe, removed old igniter and replaced it. Spent some extra time digging around for leads, etc. before discovering that my new igniter was identical to the old one and all I had to do was plug it in.

Followed video that came with part.

We turned off the water, removed the hot and cold water hoses from the machine, then unscrewed the metal plate on the back of our washer that was covering the water inlet valve. Next we removed the output hose and pulled out the inlet valve. As we unhooked each electrical wire we immediatley hooked it to the same location on the new inlet ... Read more valve. Then we rehooked the out put hose and reversed our steps to finish the job. Before putting the plate cover back over the inlet valve we filled the machine with cold water and ran it through all cycles to make sure we didn't have any leaks. The pictures/insturctions that came with the new part were helpful.

This was the first repair job that our 20 year old Maytag washer has needed, and it was nice to be able to do the job ourselves. Reading other customers's repair stories on your web site helped us diagnose our problem. I found it easy to locate and order the right part and it arrived two days after being ordered.

It looked like an easy fix. the igniter had a plastic clip. A simple R&R. Removed old igniter from its mount, removed plate to get access to wires, removed insulation. Tried to pull the old wires out of its location. It was hung up and I spent 1/2 hr. trying to free it. No go. I thought I'd have to remove oven from its cabinet. I removed ... Read more six screws and it would not come forward. I felt the under side of the oven thru lower door of cabinet and found out that was where gas was connected. No way was I disconnecting the gas. Pushed oven back in, reinstalled screws and decided to cut old wires and splice in the new igniter. WENT BACK AND READ THE INSTRUCTIONS! Supplied were 4 ceramic wire nuts. Then the light bulb went on! OKAY! I got a marker and marked the top wire on the old igniter to identify it after I cut the wires as close to the back of the old igniter as I could with a pair of side cutters. I then cut the wires as close as I could to the plastic clip on the new igniter. Striped off 3/8 in. from all wire ends and spliced the wires together using the wire nuts. I stuffed the wires as far as possible back into the hole they came from, replaced all old and some new insulation into the hole. The supplied cover would not work, screw holes would not line up and would have fit poorly. I reused the old hole cover. Screwed new igniter to its mount. Turned on the oven and thought I screwed up. I waited about 30 seconds before I saw it start to glow. WHEW! I got it right! After a few more seconds, the gas came on and the oven burner ignited. The really hard part was putting the oven door back on its mount. That door was heavy and wouldn't line up on the first try.......
Maybe if I read the instructions thoroughly the first time before I started, I could have cut my time in half and saved a lot of cussin'. CUTTING THE WIRES WAS AN "OPTION"! That's why they supplied the ceramic wire nuts!....... Dinner is in the oven right now. Smells good!

I first removed oven racks.then I removed bottom of oven by sliding locks,then lifting out bottom.Next I removed screw holding e. control cove,then removed cover.Igniter plug was exposed,I then unpluged egniter. I next removed 2 screws holding burner and igniter .I removed igniter and burner as a unit. removed 1 screw from igniter,and rep ... Read more laced igniter on burner.Then assembled every thing in reverse order,and tested Oven worked perfectly.

I watched a repair video, unplugged the electric,turned off the gas valve and disconnected the gas line. removed the shelves and burner tray. removed 2 screws and unplugged the igniter. Replaced the igniter and put tray and racks in.Hooked up gas and plugged in the electrical plug. Job done....

Checked igniter it glowed but never got hot enough to open gas valve. I switched igniter from broiler to oven and oven burner lit. Switched igniter back to broiler as wires were shorter than the oven igniter. Ordered part from number and picture comparison. It took about 20 minutes to get it installed and all stove parts back together.

Super easy. Turn off gas and unplug. Lift door off hinges, just pull up on it. Take racks out. Lift floor of oven out. You may need to release clips in the back of the oven, but mine were not engaged. Remove wing nut from shield plate and lift plate off. Using nutcracker, or Phillips screwdriver, remove screws holding the igniter to the ... Read more brace plate. Carefully pull wires from the back of the oven wall. Carefully unplug the old part. Carefully plug in the new part. Feed wires back into the oven wall and install fiberglass padding. Replace screws, shield plate, wing nut, oven floor, oven racks and door. Door just slides back onto hinges. Watch the video on parts elect. Couldn't have been easier. Saved $500 on replacing my oven. $40 for DIY repair. Awesome!!!

took out two screws that held Igniter to burner, unbluged wires from behind and pulled them out to the front of over, replaced with new one, solved the problem of the burner not coming on,,,,

My wife said the oven would not heat up, I took a look at it and determined it was not igniting. I figured there was an electric spark like my BBQ. When I took the pan out of the bottom of the oven I saw that it did not look like anything I had seen before. I looked it up online and found out it had a glow ignitor that just heats up an ... Read more d then ignites the gas. Mine wasn't doing anything so I removed it, got a part number off of it an plugged that into this site. It came up with the part, i ordered it, put it in and started it up. probably took about 45 minutes total including taking it out and then replacing it. Really easy and the oven is now working fine. Figured it would have been a couple hundred dollars to have someone come to the house and fix it, I did it myself for less than 50. Thanks Partselect.

Replaced the igniter by removing 2 screws, pulling on the wires to pull the connector in from the back thru the oval opening, screwing in the the new element, reconnecting the wires, pushing the connector back and that did it.

Removed grates and bottom plate two screws holding it. Turn oven light on and unwire the wire. Unscrewed the two screws and replace. This took my husband about ten min. And for him he says that this was a walk in the park. He says if he can do it anyone can. This was one of the easy honey dews. Good luck with yours. Nola & keith