1938 - Instructions

Most importantly make sure you get the wrinkles out of the gasket, a step we did not follow exactly, so we ended up having to work the seal a lot more to make it fit properly which of course made the repair take longer than needed. Other than that no problems here

i followed all the directions and it went in very well,although i still had the leak,i visited the parts forum and got a reply that it was the pump outlet gasket,so i an very happy to have gotten some professional help and am glad i replaced the door gasket as it needed it anyway. thanks so much roy

Replaced refrigerator cooling control. No luck. Replaced freezer cooling control. No luck. Coils were icing up. Unplugged frig and allowed coils to defrost. After more poking around, found that condenser fan was not spinning. Touch it and it'd start. That was definitely in need of replacement. Replacement was easy. Refrigerator is ... Read more now running as it should.

Ice make was still working but no water coming in to make ice . Pulled refrigerator back and found water valve at bottom of refrig close to the floor. I disconnected water line and electric plug - went to whirlpool web site - no help at all to confusing - found partselect and compaired picture of old valve with picture of new valve . ... Read more When I got it in mail it took 30 min to install - working fine now hint - mark top of electric plug so you install correctly

No repair needed. I had only to wash the new ones and use them.

order a new try and install

Removed old valve first, found part # on it.
Entered part # into search box on computer.
It came up with the right replacement part the first time!!!
Ordered part, it came in sooner than I thought it would.
I attached the supply line, pushed in the plastic outlet hose, connected the power line, and attached it to the r ... Read more efrigerator frame. We had a full container of ice the next morning.It couldn't of had been easier.

At first I went to a local part supplier and they didn't have it in stock but could order it for me for $55.00 plus $10.00 to ship it. I told them I would have to think about it. I went home and got on the computer and found your web site and was I shocked when I saw the same part listed for $6.98 and $7.00 to ship it. You guys saved m ... Read more e $50.00. The part arrived in two day and took 5 min. to install. I now have light in my refrigerator. Thank you.

This is the second time I have replaced a rack. You just pop on the new rollers and you're good to go!

1. Turn the generator selector switch to "OFF"
2. Remove the 240 volt fuses in the automatic transfer switch to remove power to the transformer.
3. Remove the outside cover from the front of the generator, on the motor end.
4. Remove the 3 screws from the panel covering the controls.
5. Label or make note of which ... Read more terminals the 4 wires on the transformer go to and disconnect from transformer.
6. Using 9/32 nutdriver, remove the two transformer mounting nuts and lock washers.
7. Remove old transformer from studs and install new one. Reinstall nuts and lock washers.
8. Reconnect the 4 transformer wires.
9. Reinstall the control panel cover and the generator housing end cover.
10. Reinstall the fuses in the automatic transfer switch.
11. Put the generator selector switch back in "Automatic"

I used this part on a little, under-counter U-line ice maker that is the best little ice maker in the world. The single solenoid part from U-line cost more than twice as much as the generic GE one I ordered from you. It arrived in only 2 days and I was able to just remove the inlet and outlet line from the old solenoid and unscrew the bra ... Read more cket to remove it. I used the included bracket and one screw affix the new one to the ice maker, then just pushed on the inlet and outlet lines, tightened them on, plugged it back in and In about 20 minutes from start to finish, it was back in business, cranking out ice really quick as it was before. Could not imagine summertime in Texas without my U-line,,,Thank you!!!

Removed the 2 screws holding the light bulb shield, then the 4 uolding the metal panel. Unplugged the olw door switch and replaced.
reassembled the pieces.

Once the covers under the door are removed, the check valve is visible (unless its too dark, hence the headlight), and pointing right at you. Since I was working under the dishwasher, I gathered all the tools I thought I might need and laid them on the floor next to. Removed 2 covers, placed pan under check valve and hose to catch any wa ... Read more ter, squeezed clamp with (wrong) pliers, it eventually came loose. Carefully twisted hose off check valve. Water came out, some of it got into the pan, most of it on the floor. I guess I should have pumped it out before I started this. Plastic check valve is screwed into the big piece of whatever, carefully grabbed it with (wrong again) pliers and turned it out. Installation is reverse of removal - but use a large pliers with a ROUNDED jaw to grab the round check valve body. Don't squeeze too hard or overtighten it. Put the clamp on the valve before pushing the hose on. Be sure the hose seats all the way onto the little lugs. Compress the clamp, slide it over the end of the hose and release. That's all folks, works good now.

I installed a new solenoid starter. Took me a total of 20 minutes. Started right up.

removed old check valve from bottom of dishwasher and replaced with new one. I used channel locks to do this, disconnect hoses and screw out check valve, and put back in opposite order, make sure the dishwasher is empty of water or have a plastic bowl or such to catch water. Take off two front covers on bottom of dishwasher to access chec ... Read more k valve ,white with hose attached.