16959 - Overview

Removed scraper bar and support. Removed flight paddles. Several retaining screws were seized requiring WD-40 and vice grips for removal. Torx sockets stripped out due to threads being seized. Hex head cap screws would be better for both scraper bar and flight papples.once the screws were removed I used a tap to clean the threads and appl ... Read more ied lubricant to minimize future corrosion. Three of the four lock nuts for the scraper bar were either not included or lost in shipping due to poor packing requiring me to purchase replacements.
Overall, the job took longer than it should have due to the additional time required to remove seized screws and acquire replacement lock nuts.

I replaced the auger belt and drive belt by separating the machine. The auger belt alone can be replaced by simply tilting without separating but the drive belt can not. So after separating the machine, I removed the auger belt by loosening the belt guide and removing the tensioner. I then loosened the nut that secures the drive wheel. ... Read more This gave me enough play to remove the drive belt from the drive tensioner and then wiggle it from the drive wheel and out of the machine. Install by wiggling the belt back behind the drive wheel until you can slip it on the wheel. pull tensioner pulley out of the way to get the belt on the top pulley. Tighten the nut to secure the drive wheel. Reconnect the machine at the bottom of the auger housing and replace the auger belt, tensioner, and belt guide. Complete by replacing the upper bolts that hold the two parts together. I have not replaced the friction wheel as of yet. My process took 30 - 45 minutes for both belts.

NOTES: 1) This is not a new model, but a rebranded version - previously under Murray, Simpliticy, Snapper, etc., so parts are available, but not readily identified yet.
2) This repair may be quite simple or it may be a huge problem, depending on whether the manufacturing problem described below is present.
3) The space between t ... Read more he housing and aluminum pulley is so tight that a belt CANNOT be fit through it!
Therefore, the only way to replace the belt is to remove the pulley.
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Step 1. As with every other single stage snow blower, remove the belt cover held by six 10 mm bolts. This may require a metric nutdriver or a deep socket for a couple of bolts.
Step 2. Use a 17 mm wrench to remove the large nut holding the aluminum impeller pulley, along with the flat and split lock washers. Also remove the part that locks the pulley onto the shaft.
Step 3a. If there is not a manufacturing issue, the pulley will come off easily and you may proceed to thread the new belt around the power and idler pulleys.
Step 3b. IF THE PULLEY DOES NOT COME OFF, you may need to get a wheeler puller tool to get it loose and off the shaft. Once the overly tight pulley is off, you may wish to file down the shaft near the end until the pulley slides on and off without much effort. (You may also wish to apply a dry silicone lubricant to the shaft to make the job easier next time.)
Step 4. In order the install the new belt, feed it around the power pulley and the idler pulley controlled by the "engage" handle. With the impeller pulley still off its shaft, feed the belt around it, fitting the belt grooves into the pulley grooves.
Step 5. The large aluminum can be replaced on its shaft, followed by the pulley lock, flat washer and split ring washer. Tighten the pulley lock nut, holding the impeller blades to keep the shaft from turning.
Step 6. Replace the belt cover and the six bolts holding it in place.