147213 General Electric Range - Instructions

I thought I was being a total girl and was afraid of fixing my oven myself, but when it took forever to get my landlord to come over and fix my oven I ordered the part, got it in three days, followed the directions online and fixed it myself! Easy, easy! Turned off the electric, switched off the gas, unscrewed 2 bolts, unplugged the old switch, screwed in the new switch, replugged it and turned on the stove. Roasted a chicken and baked bread within minutes!

I found that it was a little easier to pull out the stove to do the electrical connections. First I pulled out the stove being very careful not to bend the gas line. I pulled out the wires and disconnected them. I removed the 2 screws that hold the igniter and compared it to the new one it matched. I hooked it back up with the 2 screws then did the wire connections pushed the stove back carefully and tested the new igniter it worked like new no more microwave dinners thanks parts select .com

First I removed the racks and oven bottom panel. Then I took out the two screws holding the ignighter unplugged the wire connection and removed the old ignighter, compared the old with the new one mounted it back with the two screws plugged it back in. Job finished in 15 minutes and oven back working again.

To get to the element I had to remove the lower cover from inside the oven.

After that I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the wires. The wires are accessible from behind the undertray.

Installation of the new one was simply the reverse.

Before re-installing the burner cover I did a quick test to ensure the new igniter functioned properly and that I hadn't mis-diagnosed the problem. The element quickly started to glow and that was it.

The oven now works as it should.

Removed oven shelves, removed lower cover, removed heating element, removed lower drawer and unplugged element.

Opened oven door removed screw and broken end cap. Replaced with new end cap and put handle back on

Ordered part from customer friendly Part Select and received the replacement part within a few days, and installed it promptly. Wife is happy and stopped grumbling about oven bottom unsightly defect! Small price to pay for a happy wife! Ernie

Two set screws in rear; removed easily with a screwdriver. Old oven floor lifted out easily; new oven floor dropped in just as easily; set screws re-installed. Done. Pleasantly surprised at how easy this went.

The repair was extremely easy. Just removed the old burners and dropped in the new ones. No tools needed.

Had two burners on the stove that would not light. Had tried cleaning them but they still did not ignite. Replaced both burner heads. Once replaced. they ignited right away and have worked ever since.

1. Open oven door
2. insert oven racks (perfect fit)
3. close oven door. Done and finished - man am I tired

PULL RANGE OUT FROM WALL & ALSO REMOVED OVEN DOOR BY SLIDING UP. WORKING FROM INSIDE OVEN & ALSO BEHIND I REPLACED PART . ALWAYS " UNPLUG " RANGE BEFORE YOU START.

Start by shutting off the main gas supply to the range and unplugging the electric cord.
You will first need to take the plastic control knobs of from each individual burner (they should slide straight off).
Next, you will need to remove two phillips head screws on the front face of the panel. They are located on the right side of each rear valve burner stem that is sticking out through the panel.
Next, open the oven door, locate and remove the three screws on the bottom of the front face panel. The front panel should now come off exposing the top burner manifold and all of the valve burners.
The next step would be to take the burner grates and each round burner cover off (no tools required). This will expose the top of each individual burner. You will see screws that hold each individual burner down to the stove top. On my stove the heads were all rusted and I could not remove them. If you can remove all four of your burners and disconnect the wire on each ignitor and set the burners aside.
Next, go back to the front of the stove where you took off the panel and you will see two metal clips on each side of the stove top. Push each one of these in with a screwdriver and gently lift up on the stove top. It should hinge up towards the back of the stove and give you full access to the burner valve you need to change.
Next, use a box end wrench (I think it was 1/2") and remove the gas line attached to the burner valve. After the gas line is removed, take out the bolt and clamp that holds the burner valve to the manifold. The old valve should drop out.
Install the new valve making sure the rubber gasket is seated properly, reattach the clamp and bolt and reinstall the burner tube line.
Before you put the range all back together turn the gas back on at the appliance shutoff. Locate the gas orifice for that particular burner and hold your thumb or finger over the hole. Turn on the burner and leak test the burner tube connection and where the valve is clamped into the manifold.
Shut the burner back off if the leak test passes and reassemble the stove.
If your burners won't come out of the stove because the screw heads are rusted off (like mine was), you can carefully lift the lid a couple of inches to gain access to the valve. Make sure you don't bend or kink any of the burner tubes.

replaced handle, which was an exact fit and very easy.

remove the door,racks,cover over burner,burner,element,replaced element and rest in reversed order.