1333 - Overview

Models starting with 1333

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Lid Switch – Part Number: W10820036
$33.28
In Stock
Lid Switch
★★★★★
★★★★★
(7)
Part #W10820036
Keep your washer or dryer running safely with this easy-to-install lid or door switch kit. It stops the machine from working when the door is open, helping prevent spills and accidents. Compatible with many models, this small but important part fits neatly inside your appliance and comes with everything you need for installation. Just unplug your machine, swap out the old switch, and you're good to go. It’s about 2.5 inches long and blends in with most interiors.
Delta Frame Surface Unit - 6 Inch – Part Number: WPY04100165
$74.75
In Stock
Delta Frame Surface Unit - 6 Inch
Part #WPY04100165
If one of your range burners has stopped working, this 6-inch coil surface element offers a simple and effective solution. Delivering 1250 watts of heating power, it provides consistent heat for cooking and is easy to install thanks to its plug-in terminal design. The included center medallion adds a polished touch, blending seamlessly with your cooktop. Compatible with a variety of electric ranges, this replacement part helps restore full functionality to your appliance.
High Limit Thermostat – Part Number: WP303896
$92.28
In Stock
High Limit Thermostat
★★★★★
★★★★★
(2)
Part #WP303896
This thermostat is used for Canadian models only.
ELEMENT BAKE - RB147 – Part Number: WG02F05395
$135.45
In Stock
ELEMENT BAKE - RB147
★★★★★
★★★★★
(9)
Part #WG02F05395
This bottom oven bake element is designed for 30-inch electric ranges and ovens, delivering reliable and even heat for baking. Rated at 3000 watts and operating on 240 volts, it helps resolve common issues such as no heat, uneven heating, or a visibly damaged element. Installed at the base of the oven, it restores proper cooking performance when the original element fails. Always disconnect power before installation, and be sure to verify your appliance model to ensure proper fit.
Fluorescent Lamp/Bulb – Part Number: F26T8-CW-4
No Longer Available
Fluorescent Lamp/Bulb
Part #F26T8-CW-4
HINGE REG – Part Number: WG02L02131
No Longer Available
Blower Belt – Part Number: WP691371
$70.12
In Stock
Blower Belt
★★★★★
★★★★★
(3)
Part #WP691371
If your dryer isn’t drying clothes like it used to or making strange noises, this blower belt might be the fix. It connects the motor to the blower wheel, helping move air through the drum so clothes dry faster. Made to fit select Whirlpool models, it’s tough and reliable. Just unplug your dryer before installing and check your model number to make sure it’s the right part!
SWITCH INF.2600W - WB23M99 – Part Number: WG02F05772
No Longer Available
SWITCH INF.2600W - WB23M99
Part #WG02F05772
ELEMENT 8" 2400W - P1T23F – Part Number: WG02F05386
$140.65
In Stock
ELEMENT 8" 2400W - P1T23F
Part #WG02F05386
Leveling Leg – Part Number: WB2X8248
No Longer Available
Leveling Leg
Part #WB2X8248
Gasket – Part Number: WB2X2058
No Longer Available
Gasket
Part #WB2X2058
This genuine OEM oven door gasket is designed to create a tight, heat-resistant seal between the oven door and the cooking cavity. By preventing heat from escaping, it helps maintain consistent cooking temperatures and supports efficient oven operation. Replacing a worn, torn, or damaged gasket can resolve issues such as heat loss, uneven cooking, or longer preheat times, restoring proper performance with a simple, direct-fit installation.
Range Hex Nut – Part Number: WP112432
$10.95
In Stock
Range Hex Nut
Part #WP112432
10-32 hex - Sold Individually - Appliance originally takes 3 of this item.

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Lid closes, switch wouldn't turn on machine.
31 of 47 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Kenneth from Wilmington, IL
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Used toothpick for a year to push switch acctuator far enough to engage switch. Broke my foot and found time to order part thru PartSelect. Went from cast to boot and received part 2 days after ordered. Had difficulty with foot and getting to switch. Went back into PartSelect and figured out how to dis-assemmble panels thru the diagrams. Time on my job doesn't, just that their service and expertise that is available to everyone is there to use. Broken bones or not, I will always get my parts and advice from PartSelect. Thanks to PartSelect.
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Washer would fill up, wash, then stop
22 of 31 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Glen from Plano, TX
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
I deduced the lid switch was the problem.

I removed the two screws holding the control panel on. Pulled the control panel back.
Disconnected the ground wire of the lid switch.
removed the two top clamps that hold the panel to the top of the machine.
Pulled back the casing (outside of the washer) and placed it on it's side on the floor. Here I could reach the switch. Removed old, installed new and reversed the process.

The part that gave me the biggest problem was setting the casing back on to the frame. You have to slide the front part in at the bottome, then lean back the rest of it.
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Washer will agitate, but won't spin
18 of 24 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Mandie from Lewisville, NC
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
I ordered the switch, which is what most people told me the problem was. I didn't have a multimeter, so I couldn't test the current one.

I removed the two screws from above the lid switch, removed the control panel screws on either side, and used a flat screwdriver to pry the top off by popping the clips.

The swit ch was easy to reach, and I compared the old and new switch after removing the paddle assembly. The new switch has three prongs, whereas my old one had two, so I put the gray wire terminal onto the bottom prong. I set everything down, plugged it in, and tested it, but still no spin cycle.

After some further research, I realized the problem was with the spin solenoid under the washer, or the red wire that leaves the lid switch and goes to the spin solenoid, also called a wig-wag solenoid. (This is a belt driven model, not direct drive.) It's not too common that the solenoids fail, but it is rather common that the wires break inside the insulation on this model.

Moral of the story is always ohm through the switches and wires before ordering replacement parts. (Remember, never ohm through a live circuit.)
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