1279 - Instructions

All Instructions for the 1279
61 - 75 of 79

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only the inner/smaller part of the dual burner is working
2 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Albert from South Boston, VA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
I ordered a new burner assuming As is turns out: nothing wrong with the burner.
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Oven handle broke off
3 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Maureen from Locust Valley, NY
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Couple of screws and it was done. Simple and inexpensive since I thought I was going to have to buy a new range.
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Orignal oven door handle had multiple fractures and was fast becoming useless.
3 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Gerald from Omaha, NE
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Removed the old handle with the new one.
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cooktop inner ring did not work
1 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Matthew from Lexington Park, MD
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Dear PartSelect:

I am very impressed by your service and company. My order arrived in less than 24 hours. It was a perfect match and is currently in service. I am very satisfied with the entire experience and will use your company again.

I simply opened up the cooktop with a screwdriver and disconnected the wire s to the affected burner. After the part arrived, I reconnected them. I had to swap over two brackets from the old burner, so don't throw it away until the new one arrives. It went back together very easily and worked immediately.

Matt Brennan
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No water inlet
1 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Billy from Conway, AR
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
Removed the screws around the inner part of the door. Removed the knob from the door latch, then pulled back the inner door panel. The hardest part was tracing the lost voltage wthout a wiring diagram. I got a tip from a friend so I checked the rocker switch (heated dry switch) and it was intermittently open, also one of the 1/4" plugs that plug onto it had been hot. I replaced the switch and the connector and now it works fine.
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the paint started to chip off.
0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful.
  • vanessa from runnemede, NJ
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Wrench set
remove the door, removed about six screws and did a clean up on the glass. the replacement part was screwed back in place. so easy
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Two stage burner was not working on the outer part of burner.
0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Gregory from Pleasant Valley, MO
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Locate breaker box and turn off breaker to stove. Removed the two screw in front that hold the top in place. Raised the top and supported it with the box the new burner came in. Removed two screws that held the burner in place and the 5 wires one at a time an installed them on the new burner. Put new burner in place and installed two mounting screws. Reinstalled the two screws in the front to hold the top in place then turned the breaker back on and tested burner. Worked great. Received part in 2 days.
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Small burner not working, outside was fine
  • Lynda from Burdock, SD
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Followed directions that I found on the internet and it was easy to remove the old burner and replace it with the one I ordered from you. There was no problems at all.
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Bad Burner
  • Roosevelt from Waggaman, LA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
I simply removed the 2 anchor screws in front of the stove and wrote down the wiring order on the instillation diagram, removed the old burner, removed the two studs, made sure they were installed on the right numbers place them in the new burner, wired the new burner, placed the springs respectively. Placed them in the correct holes in the frame to be sure that the burner was aligned properly. Put the washers on the studs and replaced the frame screws, lowered the cook top and returned the screws to lock the cook top in place.
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Trim has tendancy to rust on range oven door
  • Carole from San Diego, CA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Unscrewed bottom screws, replaced trim. No trouble.
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8 inch burner was burnt out
  • Luis from Kissimmee, FL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
replacement was easy. pulled away the stove from wall. unplug the stove. open oven door. remove the two hex head screws holdings stove top. raise the stove top in the front. supported stove top with a 16 inch piece of wood. place New Burner under old burner. remove old burner remove wires remove old burner and place it on top of new burn er connected the wires from burner to new burner. install new burner. remove support lowered top down. plugged in stove tested. .burner. burner w.ork fine. reinstall hex head screws back top. pushback stove back into the wall. testes over again. all the stove work done.
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uneven heating of oven
  • John from Sandstone, MN
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Socket set
This repair was super easy. I removed the two screws holding the oven sensor in place, pulled the sensor from the oven wall to expose the two wires attached to the sensor cut and spliced in the new sensor as per instructions. The supplied wiring kit made this splice very easy. I then reinserted the wires and sensor from the oven wall, put the screws back in place tested the oven. Oven now works like new and I got bonus points from a happy wife!
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Trim part on bottom of door was rusty
  • Richard from Euclid, OH
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
I ordered the part, It came a few days later,,Within 15-20 minutes, I had it installed..Pretty easy...Thanks
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A large burner (haliant Burner 8" ) went out on my Hotpoint Electric Range
  • Ruth from Potosi, MO
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Wrench set
I ordered the part on a Monday and Tuesday afternoon I received it! I went a route I often take first. I read the instructions of others before starting my job and opened the top of the range. There are two screws under the range top in front near the oven door, one on either side, that must be removed. After this I opened the top of the range and positioned a piece of 2X2 about 20 inches long at an angle to hold the top up while I worked on the burner. I then used my phone to take a close up picture of the old burner while in place in my range so I could refer to it when putting the new one in place. I then took a pair of needle nose pliers and pulled off the wiring, then removed lock washers under the burner and removed the old burner, being careful not to lose the washers and springs. I took the new burner and layed it along side the old one to see exactly how it would be placed under the glass cover. I replace the springs and lock washers then referred to my photo and replace all the wires to the burner as they had been. Then lowered the top in place and put the screws back in place. That was it. I'm a 67 year old female, if I can do this, anyone can!
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The range kept giving an F2 alarm
  • Les from Coal Creek, CO
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
When I got the part I removed the tin cover (two screws)on the back of the range. I removed the sensor by removing the two screws inside the oven and pulled out the sensor. taking the instructions advise, I checked the sensor with my ohm meter and although it read 1.1 ohms as compared with the recommended 1.09 ohms at room temperature in the instructions, went ahead and changed the unit. The connector did not fit my particular model so I spliced the wiring and using the two included wire nuts made the connection. I reinstalled the sensor, reattached the gas line, plugged it in and tried the oven before I put it back in place. The oven works great now and it was super easy.
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All Instructions for the 1279
61 - 75 of 79