119907 Kenmore - Instructions
Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!
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Cord was not tightened enough by delivery crew.
109 of 174 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Timothy from Spring Valley, AL
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
PF alarm appeared on display. Noticed clicking when cord was moved. Had arced for some time and melted original block. New part slightly different. Only has 3 lugs, old one had six. Stack using washers provided. Take note of colors before disassembly. Use caution while working through access opening. The edges are sharp. Only tools neede
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d are phillips screwdriver, deep socket for lug nuts. Nut driver optional. Hope this is helpful.
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Old pans/bowls were corroded
48 of 55 people
found this instruction helpful.
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John from Nisswa, MN
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Very easy---simply unplug the burners, remove the old pans and replace with the new ones
I was extremely pleased with the easy ordering and prompt delivery of parts that actually fit as they should!
I was extremely pleased with the easy ordering and prompt delivery of parts that actually fit as they should!
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Oven light receptacle broken - bulb base broke off
69 of 118 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Paul from Spokane Valley, WA
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers
Turned power off at electrical panel. Pulled oven away from wall. Removed back cover (6 screws), then unplugged wires from old receptacle. I had to pull the squeeze clips backwards & break them to remove the old receptacle - couldn't squeeze them enough to remove them otherwise. The old receptacle came out through the inside of the oven,
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and the new one snapped in easily from inside the oven as well. Replaced wiring, installed new bulb, restored power & tested. Replaced back cover. Good time to vacuum under/behind where the oven usually lives before sliding it back to the wall.
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High heat reluctant to turn down.
45 of 49 people
found this instruction helpful.
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George from New Port Richey, FL
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Most of the job is simple fastener mechanics.
Use a nut driver or Phillips screwdriver. Remove rear panel.
Pull out control knob. If it is stuck, wrap a small rag around the back of it and pull the rag steadily.
Carefully match marked terminals on the replacement switch with those on original. Switch terminals ... Read more may not be in the same location. Replace wires one for one, one at a time.
Carefully select the correct knob filler for the switch post. Several are supplied. Proceed with logic and measure the shaft length and the filler length and type to match.
Use a nut driver or Phillips screwdriver. Remove rear panel.
Pull out control knob. If it is stuck, wrap a small rag around the back of it and pull the rag steadily.
Carefully match marked terminals on the replacement switch with those on original. Switch terminals ... Read more may not be in the same location. Replace wires one for one, one at a time.
Carefully select the correct knob filler for the switch post. Several are supplied. Proceed with logic and measure the shaft length and the filler length and type to match.
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Right front burner would over-heat
23 of 27 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Melvin from Attica, MI
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
First of all I removed the top panel then removed the switch. I then took pictures of the switch & drew a sketch with all the info. Then I went to your web site, matched up the switch & ordered.
When the switch arrived I went thru the above replacing the bad switch.
When the switch arrived I went thru the above replacing the bad switch.
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corroded terminals
22 of 25 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Gary from hollywood, FL
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
was more of a job of splicing wires together than anything else. Loved the heat shrink electrical tubing
to put over the wires for insulation. used a hair
dryer. must buy more of that amazing stuff
to put over the wires for insulation. used a hair
dryer. must buy more of that amazing stuff
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burner quit working
26 of 39 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Kathy from Lebanon, IN
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
pull out old burner, lifted range top change the terminal which took about 5 min. close top put new burner in and was ready to go. works great.
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Old discolored drip pans that would not clean up.
17 of 20 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Elizabeth from Smyrna, TN
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
I simply removed the old drip pans and inserted the new ones which matched and fit perfectly.
I'm glad I found you on line. Your service was fast and the whole transaction was easy!! Thanks.
I'm glad I found you on line. Your service was fast and the whole transaction was easy!! Thanks.
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One burner didn't work all the time the other would go red hot
15 of 16 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Phillip from Pekin, IL
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Screw drivers
I unplugged the stove from the outlet, then removed the two burners I was going to be working on and the drip pans. Then I raised the top part of the stove and removed the screws holding the plug-in blocks to the stove. Then I cut the two wires going to the old plug-in block and stripped the wires back to match the new wire parts. Then I
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placed the sleeves over the new wires, then I placed the new wire beside the wire I stripped on the stove and screw on the wire cap making sure it was tight. I repeated this three more times, once I had all four wires connected I then placed the sleeves over the connections and heated them up until they were formed around the connection. Once I had all the connections done I placed one wire at a time into the plug-in block until it locked into place ( I looked at my old plug-in blocks first to make sure I placed the new wires in the correct way ).I then used the metal mounting bracket that matched my old ones and snapped the correct one onto each plug-in block. Before mounting them onto the stove I compared them to my old ones to make sure they were correct. Then I used the new screws to mount them to the stove. I took a second look at everything I had done before closing the top cover of my stove. After lowering the cover back into place I put both the drip covers in place and then installed the burners.I then plugged the stove back into the outlet and tried the burners. This was very simple and the video on the web site shows this very well which made my job very simple.
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Block terminal burnt out, hot plate not working, needed to replace the terminal block
17 of 22 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Shaun from Whitehall, MD
- Difficult
- More than 2 hours
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Pliers, Screw drivers
This should take approx 15-30 mins. It took me 1.5 hours as I pushed the terminals into the wrong end of the block. It's very difficult to get them out when you do that... However, there are no easy instructions on the block or in the instructions to tell you which end to push the terminals into!!! So, with a 50:50 chance of getting
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it right, I got it wrong. I think most people would need to buy a new part if they do this. It would be very much easier if the block, had an arrow that simply said IN here so that this type of simple mistake is less easy to do... If you get that right, the fix is quite and straight forward. Good luck.
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The left front burner would not turn off, and the switch was sparking
15 of 17 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Dan from Mulvane, KS
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
First I unplugged the stove, and removed the upper-back panel. Then I pulled off the control knob. Then I removed the two screws holding the switch to the stove. Then one-by-one I removed the wires from the old switch and connected them to the corresponding tabs on the new switch. Then, using the knob adapter supplied with the new swi
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tch, I figured out how much of the knob shaft I had to remove from the new switch to position the knob the correct distance from the face of the stove. Then I tested the switch with a voltmeter as instructed, and then I hooked up the last wire.
Partselect.com is an awsome website!!! I was able to review comments form other do-it-yourselfers that had similar problems. Then I looked up the Partselect schematic drawings of my stove and was easily able to find and order the part I needed. The part arrived at my house within a couple of days and I had the stove fixed in no time.
Partselect.com is an awsome website!!! I was able to review comments form other do-it-yourselfers that had similar problems. Then I looked up the Partselect schematic drawings of my stove and was easily able to find and order the part I needed. The part arrived at my house within a couple of days and I had the stove fixed in no time.
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burner wouldnt heat
11 of 13 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Doug from Ashton, IA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
removed element , cut wires, conected wires,replaced element
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broken clip on top panel hold down
15 of 26 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Mark from Huntington Station, NY
- Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
pressed clip into hole on top of front panel. first remove two philip screws that hold filter so you can lift top up.
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Burner wouldn't stay hot.
11 of 14 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Billy from Lovelady, TX
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
I pulled out the old element and the new one just plugged right in.
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Replacement bowels didn’t fit
10 of 11 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Russell from ROEBUCK, SC
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Pulled the heating elements out took the bowels out that didn’t fit, threw them away and replaced them with the perfectly fitting bowels from this site and replaced the heating elements.
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