110C92962200 Kenmore Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

Followed instructions other customers provided for hose installation. Haven't installed agitator dogs yet. Need to watch the video on your web site.

It is odd that this part needed replacement but I am in an area near the Atlantic ocean in a vacation house which is vacant most of the year. The exhaust vent probably brings excessive moisture down to the dryer in the basement. The screen you can see at the inside back of the tumbler (where the heated air enters) rotten out, pieces fell inside and there was danger of something falling in and catching fire. I found no useful source for information (including YouTube) as this part is most easily replaced from the rear of the dryer and the available info was about repairing the heating element, the circuit board, or the exhaust venting pieces which is done from the front.

The bottom line is that the back removes easily. You should:
1. unplug and remove the exhaust shoot
2. remove the top per YouTube or other source
3. take off the back panel over the electrical connections and unscrew the ground; tuck it inside. Don't undo any electrical connections except the ground
4. take off the screws holding the back on (8-9, one is hidden above the exhaust vent) and pull it out of the way; you then have compete access to the "DUCT-AIR" part
4. undo the clip that holds the vent tube (from the heating element) to the part
5. remove the screws that hold the part to the inside back (3?) and push it out of the way
6. remove the clips and remove the old part
7. reassemble in reverse order

I'm over 70 so I took lots of time and breaks but was still done in under two hours. The 2 clips holding the heater element tube to the part were badly rusted and should have been replaced but I made do with the old ones.

Just like the video, just followed the video
Thanks,

Remove screws, dryer sensor on screen. Put sensor back in place. Secure with screws. The way you take it off go in reverse.

remove 3 screws vent comes out put new part in works grate just like new a gain

Removed the front panel, removed the tub and removed the old seal. Tub seal area was scraped, sanded and wiped with acetone to ensure a clean. Bonding surface. Applied adhesive with and acid brush to get a consistent adhesive layer without getting too much in any one place. Seal was a bit smaller than the tub circumference so it had to be stretch to fit. While the adhesive was curing , I took the time to clean the contact surfaces and vacuum the lint from inside the cabinet. Reinstalled the tub, drive belt and front panel.

Ignor installation video. it is for a different model dryer. The part is not accessed from rear. It is accessed from the front panel. Disconnect power. Remove two screws below front panel with cross head screwdriver. Swing panel up until it releases. No need to disconnect wires just put front panel down beside the dryer. Thermostat located right in front on duct easy to identify since it has four leads. Remove wires with needle nose pliers. Remove thermostat with nut driver. Contacts are labeled but hard to read. Hold thermostat so the lead number 3 (the 3 will be upside down) is on the left. Connect blue wire. White wire to top. Purple wires to bottom and right. Reverse removal procedure and you are done.

To replace the light bulb, I removed the screw and the cover, unscrewed the old bulb, replaced with the new bulb and replaced the cover, securing it with the small screw. It worked appropriately with normal use for a few days and then I noticed the light was not coming on when I opened the door.

I removed the cover and pulled out the bulb to find that the filaments inside are dangling and burned through. I need them replaced, please.

I took out the old worn out part and replaced with the one I order.

Removed power and front panel, removed broken latch, pushed in new latch and replaced the front panel and power. Done

After watching the great install video, I followed his lead and within 20 min had my dryer door fixed. This dryer was bought in 1986 and I really thought I was looking at buying a new dryer. How wonderful that I could fix it for less than $11. Easy to find web site, easy to find part, great instructions and fast delivery!

discovered it was a broken latch. Ordered the latch, only took 2 days to arrive and all I had to do was remove the broken latch and snap in the new one. I saved myself a service call. I'm very happy!!!!!!

The first thing I did was google "whirlpool dryer repair drying takes too long" to determine all of the possible parts I needed to order (the result was 3 possible parts, a heating element and two different thermostats). I then went to www.partselect.com (I'm a repeat customer) and searched the parts using the dryer model number listed just inside the door. I then printed the dryer model diagram off of the www.partselect.com website to determine the location of all the parts and how to replace them. Our first purchase was the new heating element from the www.partselect.com website, received it in just a couple of days and replaced it, but that did not fix the problem. We then ordered the two thermostats, again received them in 2-3 days, replaced them, and were drying clothes in <30 min. in no time! All we had to do was unplug the dryer, disconnect the vent hose, take the back off, unscrew each thermostat, disconnect the wires, install the new thermostats, reconnect the wires, screw the thermostats back in place, replace the back cover, reconnect the vent hose and plug the dryer back in. It took <15 min. for the complete repair! Thanks, www.partselect.com! I will continue to be a repeat customer!!!!!

Pulled washer out from wall removed clamp and old drain hose addnew hose replaced clamp put washer back in plact connected drain to outlet simple operation

they sent the wrong part . when i got the right part i removed the two screws holding the element . took the Thermostat out . removed the plugs . put the new thermostat in plug in the plugs. screwed the element back in place . And now i need to replace the fuse located at the top of the element casing.