110C9 Kenmore - Instructions

All Instructions for the 110C9
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dryer not heating up
12 of 14 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Richard from New Windsor, NY
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Unscrewed 4 screws,pulled off front of machine.Unscrewed 2 screws holding coils on,unplugged coils,installed new coils,plugged in coils,reinstalled 2 screws for hold down brace.Reinstalled front cover,plugged dryer into outlet(remember to unplugged dryer before working on it).started up,instant heat,works great.thanks Partselect for helpi ng me out!!!
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The Dryer would not get hot.
14 of 20 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jerry from Bradenton, FL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
I removed the two screws holding the access panel, and removed the access panel. Then removed the lower air duct. I then checked the burner, The solenoid was not opeing the valve for the gas. I order the coils, in two day I had the coils and installed them. The dryer is working great.
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The dryer was not fully drying
12 of 14 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michael from Chicago, IL
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
After replaceing several parts including the thermostats the last part I replaced the coils were the defective part. I originally metered out the themostats and they appeared to be okay but since this was my first time I thought I might have been mistaken. It turns out the last part I thought it could be was the part that was defective. I will say that it is very simple to replace any of the parts involved. The hardest part was trying to open the dryer itself. But after having to do it 3 times, I'm now a pro. I also replaced the drum belt and since I had it open I also replaced the belf idler with a newer modified idler rolller.

Putting the belt back on is easy, but it helps to view the video or a picture to understand how the belt goes around it.
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Rear dryer drum seal came out
17 of 29 people found this instruction helpful.
  • William from Pontiac, MO
  • Easy
  • More than 2 hours
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
Used my Whirlpool Dryer User Instructions Manual and followed instructions and used the Cabinet Parts page to see the diagrams.
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Scratches in Surface
83 of 228 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michelle from Richardson, TX
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.
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When using the dryer the cycle would stop and display E1 as the reason
13 of 18 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Joyce from Holbrook, NY
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Unscrewed the bottom panelof the dryer and located the thermistor through the schematic for my machine. Removed the old one and put the new one in the same way. No more E1 problems and all cycles now complete themselves.
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Pump but not spin-oil leaking-agitation noise
11 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Alvaro from CLEMENTON, NJ
  • A Bit Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Replaced AGITATOR DIRECTIONAL COGS (4) looking instruction video . Replaced CLUTCH LINING KIT following video of this site "WASHER REPAIR-REPLACING THE CLUTCH ASSEMBLY". Replaced SEAL, GEARCASE COVER and NEUTRAL DRIVE ASSEMBLY as follow: 1)CLUTCH Assembly and motor removed, took the GEARCASE on a bench vise to hold in place and the lo ng shaft up side. You can get help from other person to hold secured in place instead a vise.2)Following a youtube video I tested gearcase with a reversible drill using DIRECT DRIVE MOTOR COUPLING PART next To transmission side instead of electrical motor. Drill turning counter clockwise drive the long shaft oscillating (it agitate via agitator cogs). Drill turning clockwise run the exterior sleeved part around shaft (upper side of metal gear inside gearcase and fixed on top to clutch to get washer spin). My experience was didn't rotate so we had to take apart gearcase cover.3)Unscrewed and removed gearcase cover. Cover was sticked by old seal gasket so a screwdriver helped me to remove it.4)Cleaned joint removing old gasket.5)Repeating drill test I realized big nylon gear did'nt rotated and removed uppercut clip with pin pliers with care for not lose the pin. Removed the next washer, the plastic gear and found a plastic part with a tooth broken. This part is with NEUTRAL DRAIN ASSEMBLY so replaced assembly following part instructions. I recommend take pictures in order to reassemling and use ALLEN WRENCH 5/32'' inches.6)Fill up to half of gearcase with 16 ounces (about 1/2 of case) of gear oil supplied by PARTSELECT or automotive gear oil SAE 85w90 or SAE 90.7)Replaced SEAL, GEARCASE COVER. HARD TO REMOVED AND REPLACE! Take care not break!. I had to use a piece of metal tube and a vise.8)Applied automotrice black seal gasket silicone around the cover joint and case.9) Replaced the cover and reversal instruction video.THANKS to this site I get excellent service and Enjoyed with my toy.
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squeaking sound due to worn out bearing idler pulley wheel.
13 of 18 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Evan from NORTHRIDGE, CA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
BEFORE ANYTHING ELSE UNPLUG THE POWER AND TURN OFF THE GAS SUPPLY 1. unscrew the 3 nut screws at the back to remove the cover lid. 2. pull the control console cable from the electronic board. (only 3 wires on it).3. unscrew the 2 nut scr ews of the control console then remove it by pulling up.4. unscrew the 5 screws to remove the door. (pull little up to unhinged then remove). 6. unscrew the 5 nut screws to remove the lower siding. 7. unscrew the copper 4 nut screws then remove the lint suction fixture 8. unscrew the 4 nut screws to remove door fixture ,then just lay next to the machine.(the wires are long enough so you don't need to unplug and separate it from the machine.9. remove the belt by pulling the idler pulley towards the motor pulley (against the tension spring) 10. remove the drum by lifting a little bit upward. 11. remove the plastic triangular lock using a small screw driver then remove the idler pulley wheel then install the replacement. (clean your machine using a vacuum cleaner and remove all the lints). 12. install back the drum, be sure to set the drum belt to the right position. (groove on drum side). 13. install back the belt to the pulley the same procedure as to remove it. 14. assemble back what you have removed. end.
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Dryer would not generate heat
11 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Douglas from Greensburg, PA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
My dad was ready to spend $2000 on a new washer/dryer (he has to have a matching set!). Anyway, his dryer would not generate heat. A google search turned up partselect.com, which walked me through the procedure to see what we needed.

It turned out to be a simple to replace $25.00 part! The dryer is drying as if it was brand new. Saved $1,975. Hehe.

Thanks, partselect!
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Idler pulley wore out
10 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Peter from HUEYTOWN, AL
  • Very Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
Removed the back panel and saw that the idler pulley was worn out. It only took me 5min. To replace, it was very easy to replace.
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Top of washer wasn't attached to base
10 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Janel from Las Vegas, NV
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
First, let me start off by saying - this part wouldn't normally break. Because it's a stackable, and my dryer motor went out, the repair company had to move the entire unit from the cubicle. When the repairman tried moving it by using the washer lid ... lets just say he broke the clip. And then we could never get them to come fix the part they broke!

So, I finally ordered the part myself after studying schematics online. I am not a repair person. So, if I could figure this out - anyone can.

Take the middle cover between the washer and dryer off. There are 3 screws holding that panel on. Set the panel and screws aside. There are two "S" shaped clamps at the back. Lift (hard) the front of each one. They will snap free - freeing the whole top of the washing machine. The top has the lid connected. Pull the top towards the front and then rotate it counter-clockwise. It will come right off. This will free up the area the clips go on.

Take the lid completely off to get it out of the way. The clips fit in the holes on the front left and front right. The large square side goes up, and the small side snaps into the hole on the base. Make sure the groove is facing forward for the top cover to slide into. To get the clip to snap into the hole, put the front side down, and push (really hard) on the back side - the side towards the back of the washer. It should snap into place with some pressure.

Now, just put the top cover (with the lid attached) back on, rotate it clockwise, re-clamp it down and replace the middle panel and 3 screws.

Easy, right?
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spin cycle was not working / poor
11 of 14 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Craig from Plano, TX
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Socket set
Unplugged the appliance. turned off inlet water and removed hoses. popped the cap off hiding the bolt that keeps the agitator in place and pulled the agitator off. tipped the washer on its front . disconnected the Wire harness. removed the 3 bolts that hold the pump, motor,clutch, (drive assembly in other words). pulled the Drive ass embly out of its resting spot removed the bad clutch and replaced it with the new one. then reassembled in reverse order.
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Broken belt. Broken idle pully and replace 4 rollers
11 of 14 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Mike from INOLA, OK
  • Easy
  • More than 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
By watching the video it made the job much easier than I thought it would be. I was very pleased with the speedy delivery of the Dryer kit I had ordered. I had called a local repair facility and they wanted twice as much for the same parts.
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Dryer squeeching very loud
9 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michael from ENOLA, PA
  • Very Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Socket set
Took off back of dryer Undid belt from belt adjuster pulled and took off adjuster put new one on redid belt and put back on dryer. Done
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gasket came off lent filter
11 of 15 people found this instruction helpful.
  • stephen from langley, KY
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
i could not find this part anywhere locally,so i found this web site which had this part.i ordered this part and am very glad i did.i received it in 2 days.thank you very much.if you need anything check this place first,you will be very satisfied.
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All Instructions for the 110C9
106 - 120 of 1231