110C9 Kenmore - Instructions

All Instructions for the 110C9
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Extended drying time. Some but not enough heat. Burner would light for 15-18 seconds at first then shut off for 1-3 minutes then light for 3-6 seconds and repeat for the length of the cycle.
128 of 148 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Matthew from Lake Worth, FL
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Determining the problem was the hardest part. With multiple parts (coils,thermostats...)possibly causing similar symptoms, I narrowed it down to the two coil valves.
Un plug the dryer. Remove two screws at the base of the front panel. Turn the front panel 180 degrees to avoid disconnecting the door switch. Gas valve with coils on top are on the right in front. Remove two screws in bracket holding coils, disconnect the wires, replace with new coils and reconnect wires. One coil has 2 terminals the other has 3 no chance of crossing the wires. I used an offset/right angle screw driver for one of the bracket screws due to close proximity to the drum. A stubby phillips head will work. You can check the burner operation with the front panel off as long as the door switch is still attached. Swing the front panel around and lift back into place securing with the two screws. Dryer works fine now.
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very loud squeeling sound
110 of 120 people found this instruction helpful.
  • jason from HOLDEN, MA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Socket set
The issue was the idler pulley. First I began opening up the front panel based on a youtube video but soon realized the model was slightly different and required a lot more items to remove. I saw the pulley in the back with nothing in the way so I put the front panel crap back on and removed the rear panel. There it was, very simple to re move and replace. I'm not looking forward to drum rollers though. Hopefully they're aren't as difficult as they appear.
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dryer door would not stay shut
103 of 107 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Pam from Woodbridge, VA
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
This repair was a cinch. Pliers to pull out the metal piece and a screwdriver to pry out the 'catch' part in the door. Both replacement pieces went right in. I cannot believe how easy and CHEAP this fix was, and I'm so glad I found this site!! I figured I would have to call a repairman and pay big bucks, so I put it off, but the door was getting worse--slamming it so hard to keep it shut. Again, thanks for this great site.
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Squeaky Dryer Noise
94 of 106 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Eddie from PELZER, SC
  • A Bit Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I purchased the dryer repair kit with the drum belt, wheels and idler pulley. I watched the instructional videos online and it seemed fairly straight forward. Breaking down the dryer and replacing the pulleys was easy enough. My problem began when I tried to feed the drum belt around the idler pulley. After finishing the job, the dryer wo uld not turn and the sensor light stayed on. I thought something else was broken with the dryer and spent hours trouble shooting other problems that I was having. Finally I figured out that the drum belt was not installed correctly around the idler pulley. However, I could not get it properly installed from the front of the machine so I tried from the rear still with no avail. I finally had to fish the old belt out of the garbage can that I had thrown away earlier. I lined up the old belt with the new one in the kit and discovered that the new belt was much smaller, so I put the old one back on the drum. Here's the lesson I learned...make sure the belts are the same size before attempting to install. The old idler was responsible for the squeaking and that stopped but I am still using the same old drum belt. Hope it lasts.
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Dryer would only heat cycle once
90 of 101 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Robert from Seattle, WA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I removed the two screws holding the front panel to expose the lower works and verified the heating cycle failure. After a check of the vent system, checking the sensors for continuity and coils for resistance, I retired to the 'net for support. Accepting the general consensus that the most frequent, common and likely failure to be the c oils, I rechecked them with the meter and found the two pronged coil to have significantly more resistance than the three prong coil. That was enough evidence to point to the coils. While I waited for the part to arrive, I replace the vent ducting. When the parts arrived I removed the two Phillips screws holding the coils, removed the old ones, installed the new ones, replaced the bracket, put the front cover back on and in less then ten minutes clothes where drying.
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Very Loud Squeaking Noise
79 of 100 people found this instruction helpful.
  • GREGORY from Wilsonville, OR
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
1) Disconnected power cord from wall. 2) Disconnected vent hose from back of dryer. 3)Removed dryer rear panel. 4)Disengaged tension spring on idle wheel arm. 5) Removed worn idle wheel. 6)Installed new Idler wheel assembly. 7) Vacuumed dust from rear of dryer (optional, recommended). 8) Reinstalled rear cover, vent hose and power cord. E asy repair 15-30
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Door won't latch
95 of 158 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jill from bellevue, WA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers
I did NOT have to repair the latch on the actual door, just the small metal piece that it hooks on (on the dryer itself) and it took about 10 seconds to.....do it myself. Just used needle nose pliers so squeeze the piece together and fit it in. thanks
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The dryer heated up for a few minutes and then cooled down.
67 of 76 people found this instruction helpful.
  • James from Limington, ME
  • A Bit Difficult
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
1 Unplug power.
2. Remove the front of the unit by removing the two screws at the bottom of the front panel. Front dryer panel will swing out from the bottom and then the clips will release the top of the panel, careful not to disconnect the dryer door switch. ( can be unplugged to remove the front panel out of the way.)
3. Look ing inside the unit on the right side you will see the gas value. On top of the gas unit you will see two small coils the coil closest to the burner has two leads on it. Remove the two screws to get to the coils, remove the medal plate, remove the connector then lift off the secondary coil. Replace and test. You can test unit with the front panel off. (be careful). If no heat, check that the Flat Style igniter is glowing. (ohm out both coils) before ordering parts. Intermittent heat problems. I replaced the secondary coil, it did ohm out o:k but it had swollen and was very tight on the shaft.
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No heat to dry clothes
66 of 77 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Karen from Pine Mtn. Club,, CA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
First I took the front of the dryer off then located the igniter. It only required removing two screws, removing old igniter, replacing with new igniter, and replacing the two screws.. While I was replacing the igniter I took the drum out and throughly cleaned the inside. Lucky me, I found 85 cents on the floor of the dryer. I am 65yr s old, married and mother of two.
This was easy to do and sure saved money. I reccommend others try to do repairs for themselves and using PartSelect was less expensive too.
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broken belt
66 of 78 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Larry from exeter, RI
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
First I removed back and top of dryer, then the support braces holding the drum, after that I took the drum out and the blower covers and cleaned the whole dryer of lint and other debris. Installed the new belt and then reassembled the dryer.
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Felt gasket on lint filter loose...
61 of 71 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Catherine from Atascadero, CA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Found this site by googling, and it works! I searched lint filters and just ordered based on how it looked...LOL! Husband wasn't home, it looked pretty much like the one I had in my hand, so.... I ordered it. It is the perfect fit and seems to have a tighter gasket glued in all around the screen. Let's hope this one lasts longer than 6 mo nths! Thank you Parts Select for being so fast!! Filter got here in less than 48 hrs.!
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Rear tub seal failure
67 of 90 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jerry from Everett, WA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
I removed the top cover and then the back cover, released the belt tensioner and removed the drive belt. Then slid the tub out of the unit and onto the back dack. Sanded the remnents of the old seal off. Wiped the tub lip with laquer thinner and applied the "fast" drying glue supplied with the kit. Installed the seal and re-assembled the unit...works fine
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door kept coming open dryer shuts off
95 of 176 people found this instruction helpful.
  • RONALD from SALMON, ID
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
use screwdriver topry plastic out plyers to pull out metal latch put new parts in
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The dryer would start to heat then the heat would stop
58 of 70 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Theodore from Riverside, CA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench set
I changed out the cycling thermostat and the high limit thermostat. Mainly because that was what my research indicated was the problem. I then found some more information online that indicated the gas solenoid valves were bad. I ordered them from you and replaced them. The problem was fixed.

In order to replace the valves you need to remove the top panel. Two screws at the top of the front door assembly hold it on. Remove the screws, lift up on the front panel door assembly and move it to the side. The drum will rest in place. In the lower left corner, under the drum, you will see the solenoids. Two screws attach a plate that holds down the solenoids. Take the hold down plate off, disconnect the control wires attached to the solenoids and lift out the solenoid/control valves. To assemble everything, work backwards to the start. Good Luck
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dryer would get hot for a while, then quit heating
56 of 70 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Sharon from Houston, TX
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
After reading about other people with this same problem I took a chance that this would be what was wrong with my dryer.I took off the front cover of the dryer by removing two screws. I located the faulty coils and simply plugged in the 2 new coils Tah-dah Probably coud have been done without even removing the front panel, but since it was off I vacuumed out the lint ( actually my husband did all of the above, but I tell a better tale than he does and I diagnosed the problem and ordered theparts)
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All Instructions for the 110C9
16 - 30 of 1231