110C8 Kenmore - Instructions

Actually this is kinda funny. I ordered the part and it arrived when I was out of town on business. My 20 year old daughter tipped the washer up on its end, and replaced the pump herself in less than 30 minutes. Her only complaint was that no one told her to block the washer up as it almost fell on her.

First, I'm glad I found PartSelect. The previous posts for this repair told me exactly how to replace the pump: I unplugged the washer and moved it out away from the wall (did not need to disconnect water hoses). Then I tilted the washer back and propped it up so I could get underneath. Using pliers, slid hose clamps back and disconne ... Read more cted hoses from pump. Using a screwdriver, popped off two clips, top and bottom, that hold the pump in place. Pump then slides right off the shaft. Installation is the reverse. Make sure you align the shaft with the pump. Delivery of my part was FAST - ordered it and got it the next day!

First I removed hose from drain, next I loosened the clamp at the drain hose connection at the washer. Removed hose. Have rags/towels as there is some residual water that will spill out of the washer. Reinstall in reverse.

I purchased a stack kit from "Part select.com". The item was just what I needed to do the job. The delivery of the part was made the next morning. WOW! Excellent service! The process was completed in less than 24 hours, start to finish. Very impressed!

I replaced the thermistor earlier, but the code was still flashing. I noticed the heater terminals were charred and pretty well covered in carbon. So, I replaced the heater, the thermostat and thermal fuse and replaced the 3/8" spade terminals on the heater wires. (These are hard to find - most electrical spades terminals are .250. A ... Read more lso, I crimped and soldered these for a connection with the lowest resistance possible). After all that, the code still flashed! I let the explatives fly, calmed down, and ran the control board test. (This is done by pressing "more time" "less time" "more time" "less time" in succession.) The control board was passing all the tests, but the thermistor test, and the only thing is in this circuit is the thermistor, the wires, the connector to the control board, and some circuit on the control board that involves a few resistors and the "brain" chip. So, I checked the terminals at the thermistor, the wires up to the control board and the connector at the board. The control board connector was fairly dust encrusted, so I unplugged it, cleaned the control board terminals and sucked away all the lint and dust. Finally, I carefully removed earch crimp terminal from the Molex connector (the white female connector) and cleaned and bent them to yield a better connection to the terminals on the control board. I put it all back together, and thus far it is working fine.

Removed to top panel - two screws in the back
Removed the screws from the metal panel holding the electronic board, remove the wire clips and rotated the metal panel up and out of the way.
Disconnected the three wire connector to the door switch cable - There must be a special tool for this as a basically destroyed the connector ... Read more on the door switch cable.
Use a pliers to pull out the door switch from the front. This was not easy and I wound up having to destroy the door switch to get it out.
Inserted the new door switch cable first from the fron of the dryer and connected the new door switch cable connector to the dryer wiring harness.
Rotated the main electronic panel back in place, re-inserted the cable harness and re-inserted the bracket screws.
Re-installed the top panel and screws.

First unplug dryer, then remove 4 screws along the back of the top and remove top and set aside. Next pull outward on the front until the front clears the drum and lift off the front and set to the side, careful not to stretch the wires to the door switch. Remove old belt and slip belt around the drum and line up with marks from old belt. ... Read more Reach in under the drum under the motor and lift up the tensioner. Insert belt through tensioner and slip over the front of the shaft on the motor and release the tensioner. The belt should now be tight. Reinstall the front and top, plug in and test.

Pulled out the old and slid in the new filter

PartSelect sent me three different door catches with instructions for choosing the correct one. I did choose and simply inserted it into the slot and voile! All finished and it works great now! PartSelect had the part delivered the day after my order was placed. I would suggest doing business with them to anyone asking who they might c ... Read more ontact for a part. I especially appreciated the ease of identifying and ordering from them. I was able to do all of this on-line via their website.

Just turned the washer on its side, popped out the two retainer clips with pliers and screwdriver, pulled the pump out by hand, put the new one in and replaced one rusty clip with the new one from parts select, and used the other old one. I ordered the parts on Monday, and they came tuesday, even with the standard shipping. Also the we ... Read more bsite parts diagram and whole website design is good.

Used socket set to remove the two hex-head screws from the bottom flange of the toe panel. Manually pulled the panel out at the bottom, pulled down, and removed the panel. Looked to right and found heater shield. Removed heather shield using socket set. Removed the two wires from the terminal block (had to use a little WD40 to loosen c ... Read more onnection and wiped up afterwards). Removed the holding screw holding the heating element using the socket set. Pulled HARD on old heating element using pliers and a rag (protection from accidental cut-sharp edges). Once out, the new element slid in relatively easy. Screwed the new element back into place and re-connected the element wires, then put the heater shield back into place. Put the toe panel back into place. Tested and worked great! The only thing that made this "easy" but not "really easy" is that I had to really pull HARD on the old element to get it out...with the sharp edges and tight fit in play, you'll need to pay attention to safety when removing the old element.

Viewed a video provided on this site for disassembly etc. It was not my exact same model, but the instructions were pretty much spot on. The main issues we had were just that it was bulky etc. and somewhat heavy. We could not really work on it in place, so we had to drag it to the kitchen area. I found the existing heater element to be op ... Read more en upon inspection. Changed it out with the one I purchased which was an exact replacement. The drum rollers, motor pulley, and belt did not really look bad, but since I ordered the repair kit, I went ahead and replaced all of them. I was glad I did because it is much quieter now. The only thing I did differently was I cut off the existing plastic triangle keepers for the rollers with my diagonal cutters instead of work them off with a small screwdriver like in the video, which saved some time and frustration. New ones were provided in the kit I purchased anyway. I also would recommend marking the front of the drum somehow so there is no confusion which way it goes when you put it back together. Works as good as new now, good for another 10 years (I hope).

I removed three bolts from the transmission and two clips that hold the motor to the drive gear. I replaced the brake cam that had cracked and the lining. Now it works great ! Ordered part on Friday before two and it came Saturday at four.

we looked at the video first then my husband fit the proble boy! was i excited! all the stores tried to get me to buy a new one. thanks partselets!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Unscrewed the two screws that hold the water lines to the valve. Unscrewed and lifted the control panel, popped the two spring clips that hold the back panel against the housing. Pulled the valve just outside the back panel. Took off the internal water line and moved it over to the new valve. Took off both hot and bold electric plugs a ... Read more nd moved them to the new valve. With the old valve off, I sled the new valve into place and screwed it to the back panel. Put the spring tabs back on the back panel and screwed the back panel back together. Plugged it in, attached the water supply lines and tested it. Worked fine.