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110C68012011 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

All Instructions for the 110C68012011
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Lint filter seal worn out
The part wasn’t for my machine. Unfortunaly I was not able to repair it. I was sent stripe of foam with an adhesive strip on the back. I needed a felt strip.
Parts Used:
Dryer Seal Outlet Housing
  • Dennis from PALM BCH GDNS, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
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Old lint filter was broken
Just replaced the old lint filter.
Parts Used:
Lint Filter
  • Earl from Santa Ana, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
8 of 14 people found this instruction helpful.
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Dryer made squeaking noise, then more of a rumbling noise.
Checked this site for most likely needed parts and ordered. Located full repair manual inside unit after removing lid. Followed instructions in manual to take apart and remove the drum; took pictures at each removal step and used pill organizer to keep screws in correct order and quantity. The metal cylinder in the center of the idler pulley had ground away so the idler pulley with bracket was replaced. (There was a lot of metal dust that had to be cleaned.) One of the rollers did not turn smoothly so that was also replaced. After putting drum back in, reversed the steps to reassemble and referred to photos to make sure did in correct order and did not forget anything.
Parts Used:
Drum Support Shaft - Rear Shaft with Left Hand Threads WPW10359272 Dryer Drum Support Roller Idler Pulley with Bracket
  • JAMES from NORTH OLMSTED, OH
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Socket set, Wrench set
5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
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I was adding a 4-way vent to side vent the dryer
Doing my home work, I was told if I was "handy with my hands" I could do the work. Start to finish required 3+ hours. The instructions were not specific to my unit therefore, I had to "guess". My first surprise was encountered on step 2 - removing the top. My top was attached to the "brains" of the drier and therefore could not be removed. I actually had to disconnect the brains to remove the top. My second surprise was that I had to remove just about everything before I could get to the vent, which by the way, was simple. I finally accomplished the task, but....
Parts Used:
Side Venting Kit
  • Dodd from Fort Worth, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
18 of 46 people found this instruction helpful.
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Idler pulley seized
The pulley is accessible from the back of the dryer. Disconnect the gas line. Remove all the screws. Also remove the small plate that secures the line cord. Lift the back up and out. I was able to avoid disconnecting the water line. Take a picture of the pulley so that you will have a record of the belt routing. Release the spring and remove and replace the pulley and bracket. Vacuum out the lint. Plug in the dryer to make sure that it works properly before reassembly.
Parts Used:
Idler Pulley with Bracket
  • John from CREST HILL, IL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
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Dryer drum turned hard because rollers were worn
Remove top, front and drum. Top is removed by sliding a putty knife under the front corners and pushing the tabs back. Front is held with screws. Disconnect two electrical connectors. Rollers are easily accessible and changed.
Parts Used:
Dryer Drum Support Roller
  • Paul from STONE CREEK, OH
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
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Broken Drum Belt
Just like the video, just followed the video
Thanks,
Parts Used:
Dryer Drum Seal with Adhesive
  • Garry from Garland, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
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Roller Berings were worn out - replaced both
Watched Video - very helpful in repair Maytag Dryer working like new now Thanks for your guidance in my repair
Parts Used:
Dryer Drum Support Roller
  • Gregory from COCOA, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
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dryer was not heating up
take off front bottom panel. use ohm tester on the heater coil element, (It had broken in back) remove screw holding it in place and the two red wires leading to the element. Pull out and replace. reinstall in reverse. Done
Parts Used:
Dryer Heating Element High Limit Thermostat and Thermal Cut-Off Kit
  • Michael from Rescue, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Socket set
9 of 20 people found this instruction helpful.
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My idler pully was squealing
I removed the bottom access panel, with 2 hands i reached in behind the blower, i released the belt, i used a screwdriver to pop the retainer from the pully spindle, i removed and replaced the pully, i snapped the retainer back on and replaced the belt. I made sure the belt was on track and all was good. I put the bottom panel back on, it took all of 5 minutes. The hardest part was the retainer clip faces the rear of the dryer so you have to feel it. Also , the space is tight, use a smaller flathead screwdriver to get behind the clip, it will pop right off.
Parts Used:
Idler Pulley with Bracket
  • Anthony from SAINT CLOUD, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
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not drying completely on the automatic settings
Not a handyman but this was an easy and cheap fix. Now the automatic settings are working and drying much faster. Unplug machine, front panel has 2 spring clips toward the edges that you stick a flat tool into and pull on the panel to open. Pull off the electrical connections from the old sensors by the right side of the lint screen. Needlenose pliers help with the one farther up there. Then just pull the old ones sensors out, stick the new ones in, reconnect the electrical and get ready to live the good life with dry clothes that don't smell musty.
Parts Used:
Moisture Sensor
  • Jason from Colorado Springs, CO
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
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Light won’t come on when dryer door is opened & drum won’t stop when door is opened
Kill power to dryer from breaker box.Remove lint filter & 2 screws. Take a flat head screw driver and place in gap between rash from corner of top panel & front panel of dryer and pry up to raise top panel of dryer & rest against wall the wall on angle do it doesn’t fall back toward you. Unplug wiring harness from dryer switch inside top front corner of dryer with outside of drum exposed when top panel of dryer is raised. Open dryer door and remove screws on each side of dryer switch located at upper inside corner of door opening. Take flat head screwdriver had slide in between connector & wiring harness on dryer. Remove old switch. Reconnect new dryer switch to wiring harness & remount switch to inside of dryer door opening. Lower top panel of dryer & press front corners of top panel to front panel of dryer & clips will be locked in place. Replace screws in dryer filter mounting holes yo top panel & replace dryer filter in place. Turn on power ‘ & check if light is working 1st. Then, turn timer knob clockwise, close door and listen if the drum is turning. Open door to see if drum turns. If both work, the job is complete.
Parts Used:
Dryer Door Switch
  • John from LINDALE, GA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
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A hole in filter
Remove old filter
Vacuum out
Install new filter
Parts Used:
Lint Filter
  • Russ from Vernal, UT
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
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Dryer would shut off mid way through cycle and give an E1 error code
After turning off the power to the dryer I removed two screws to the bottom front panel and droped it out of the way. I remved three screws hloding the lint screen in place just for better axcess to the element. I then removed the two wires attached to the element and then the two screws holding the element in place. I put everything back together in reverse. I also took the time to clean any dust and lint out.
Parts Used:
Dryer Thermostat Internal bias
  • Dwayne from Bainbridge, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Socket set
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Dryer squealing loudly during operation
Unplug dryer from 220VAC outlet

Remove bottom cover panel, slip a flat blade screwdriver into each clamp, and bottom piece becomes removable. Pull forward and lift bottom cover piece.

Pull up top section from dryer frame. Disconnect dryer door off/on contact three wire switch by pressing plastic connector together. You may need a small flat blade screwdriver to seperate connector.

Remove two Torx (T15 head) screws in the far left and right corners of the front door panel.

Remove two screws underneath dryer lint screen, be careful to not let front door and front cover fall forward. The rotating dryer drum will now be loose.

Underneath drum, there is a cover panel over the dryer motor. Likely you will find a bunch of lint all about. This dryer had likely not been cleaned in many years.

Remove screws on dryer motor cover.
Remove panel. Likely, you’ll more lint about.
After vacuuming, use a flashlight and hand mirror to locate belt tensioner, back side of motor. If your belt is not broken, press down on the tensioner spring and remove belt from tensioner and motor. Inspect belt, replace if worn. In this instance the belt was well worn.

Slowly pull dryer drum forward, walking belt along as you bring drum forward out of the dryer casing.

At this point you have plenty of room to access the one bolt holding the tensioner, in this instance it was a 13mm socket. Be careful to remove the tensioner springs before removing the bracket. Your PartsSelect is an identical match to the original one.

Install new tensioner, tighten slightly, then put springs back on.

Reverse this entire process to get your dryer back together and back running smooth and quiet as it was when new.

This dryer was quieter than its owners remembered it being back when new 15 years ago.

Well worth saving the $ doing your own work.

Good luck on your repair endeavor!
Parts Used:
Idler Pulley with Bracket
  • Joseph from WEST PALM BCH, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
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All Instructions for the 110C68012011
91 - 105 of 548