110C61102011 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

Took the two screws holding the lint trap to top. Used a putty knife to loose the clips holding the top of the dryer up so it could be hindged up for access. Used a nut driver to remove the four screws hold the front door on. Removed the lower dust panel, just clips holding in on. Pull the dryer drum out along with the broken belt and old belt tensioner. Took shop vac and cleaned lint and removed about $2.00 of loose change from the base. Installed the new drum supper wheels. Held belt around drum to put back in. Looped the belt through tensioner and around motor drive pulley as shown in instructions. Put front door on only to find the felt around the door had slipped making the drum hard to turn. Pulled the door back off and laid the dryer on it's back before putting the door back on , so you can run your hand around the door to make sure the felt go inside the drum. Put the four screws back in the door panel before uprighting the dryer. Sucess the drum turned freely. Put other remaining panel and srews in lint trap . Hook the dryer back up to vent, power and gas, and turned on the dryer. Runs like new!

removed the back housing of the dryer and located the thermal switch. unscrewed the old one, popped in the new one and whala! I was back in business!

put the back cover back on the dryer and pushed it back into place.

first i removed the back cover by removing the six 1/4 inch screws then i removed the wires to the thermal switch there were three of them and using an ohm meter i checked each one for continuity until i found the one that had an open circuit. i removed the two 1/4 inch screws holding it in place and replaced it with the new one.

I followed disassembly directions found on youtube and replaced th two-piece ring bearing that was identified by a parts diagra fron PartSelect. The repair was easy. Fix time was about thirty mionutes.

put the high limit in , plus the temperature , plus the exhaust switches

Replaced roller. Very simple. Dryer is the easiest appliance to repair. Only a few parts keep a dryer working

unplugged power, slide unit away from wall, removed bottom front cover, rear sheetmetal cover, tilted front of unit to remove roller outboard support (sheetmetal screw from bottom of dryer). Removed shaft bolt from rear of dryer which released roller assembly. Remove speed nut from old roller assembly to remove outboard support arm, mounted new roller to new shaft placed triangle clips (one each side of roller), mounted outboard support to front of new shaft and completed re-assembly (reverse order of disaasembly).

Unplugged the unit, removed the back panel of the dryer and then removed the thermostat panel. Disconnected the wires on the thermostat and changed out the thermostat.

I first unplugged the dryer and pulled it away from the wall. I had to remove the vent tubing to gain access to the rear of the unit, then removed the screws on the back panel of the dryer. I took off the panel and noticed that lint that had gathered over the years around the back of the dryer. I vacuumed it clean then proceeded to problem solve. I noticed four easily identifiable areas, the thermal cut-off switch and thermostat located by the heating coil and the thermostat and fuse near the venting area. I first checked the fuse with a ohm meter, it was okay. I removed each component one at a time and created a bypass with a alligator clip wire. Plugged the dryer back in to determine if heat was produced while testing each area one at a time. I determined that heat was produced after bypassing the thermal cut-off switch. I then ordered the thermal cut-off switch kit (arrived within 3 days) and installed it within 20 minutes. The longest time spent was trouble shooting, the removal and installation was very easy. By the way, I did use the ohm meter to check the resistance across the thermostats as indicated in previous postings, but I found the results and technique to be more confusing. A bypass worked the best for me and much more reliable. The heat started immediately. I highly recommend downloading the schematics of your unit for part number and location identification.

Followed the instructions found online. Only thing I would add is that the clips are easier to work with if you warm them up a little before you try to install them.

Read this site and saw many fixed the problem with a new thermostat. Ordered one and it was simple to replace. Just removed the back panel of the dryer and the thermostat is right there. Two screws to remove it, swap the four wiring plugs onto the new one, reinstall it. Unfortunately that didn't fix it so went back online and ordered the coil kit, another common solution. Removed front of dryer by removing the two screws the hold the lint trap onto the top and the two hinge plate screws on back of dryer to tilt the top up ward and backward. Removed two mounting screws on inside of dryer front and slip front panel upward to remove. The coils are right in the front down at the bottom left of dryer.Used an offset screwdriver to remove the two screws holding them in place. They slide right out, one has two prongs, one has three. Replace them with the new coils and put them back in place. Reassembled and everything works now. Grand total of eight screws removed and replaced, pretty simple. I'd recommend buying two or three parts if you see several parts as possibilities for a repair. Easier than doing it the dummy way like I did!

Attributed excessive noise to age of dryer, upon closer inspection, a dish towel had become caught at rear of drum because the drum support rollers were damaged causing the drum to create a space in the rear of the drum. This was large enough for the dish towel to be caught. Originally I thought that the thermal fuse had blown the circuit-which should occur in an overheating situation-however the loose drum had worn through the electrical wire leading to the door switch because it was not properly seated on the rear drum rollers. the wire was repaired with a wire nut, rear drum rollers were installed and it is working again. thank you for the extremely fast shipping

replaced rollers, belt and pulley. Video was very helpful

Watched the video, followed the printed instructions for reminder when necessary. Needed a second person briefly to hold the dryer tub when installing the new belt, and also when removing/replacing the front panel. Beyond that, it was straight forward and relataively easy to do. Solved the noise problems and it dries more evenly now as well. The one thing the instructions don't say is to check the rear canvas seal when the tub is re-inserted into place to assure it doesn't fold back on itself.

I unplugged the machine and removed the back panel with a 1/4" socket. I unplugged each thermostat in turn and pulled them out. The internal bias was a bit tricky to remove without breaking the tabs or wires. I then placed each thermostat back in and replaced all the wires. Not bad at all. Weird thing is the dryer heats just fine now, until I put the back panel on; once I replace the back panel, it will not heat.