110970 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

All Instructions for the 110970
31 - 45 of 1745

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Rear tub seal failure
67 of 90 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jerry from Everett, WA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
I removed the top cover and then the back cover, released the belt tensioner and removed the drive belt. Then slid the tub out of the unit and onto the back dack. Sanded the remnents of the old seal off. Wiped the tub lip with laquer thinner and applied the "fast" drying glue supplied with the kit. Installed the seal and re-assembled the unit...works fine
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door kept coming open dryer shuts off
95 of 176 people found this instruction helpful.
  • RONALD from SALMON, ID
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
use screwdriver topry plastic out plyers to pull out metal latch put new parts in
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Replacing worn drum support rollers and shafts.
59 of 68 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Gary from Canton, CT
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Very easy once I figured out how to open it up to see what was the matter.
1 Remove power.
2 Open the lint filter cover and remove the 2 Phillip screws.
3 Pry the front of the top cover up to separate the cover from the plastic clips that secure to the top front panel.
4 Remove the 2 nut screws securing the top of the front panel to each side cover.
5 Pull front panel out slightly to detach wiring from the cover switch.
6 Pull front panel straight up and set aside.
7 Remove drum belt from tensioner and motor pulley under the drum.
8 Remove drum by pulling it toward the front between the 2 sides.
9 Locate the 2 support rollers and their mounting shafts. Change the shafts at this point if they are worn. (Mine were OK)
10 Remove the support bracket from the shaft if present.
11 Remove the plastic triangular retainer from the shaft and slide the old wheel off of the shaft.
12 Clean the shaft from any bearing debris.
13 Replace the rollers and retainers.
14 Insert drum through the front side panels making sure the seal on the rear of the drum is centered around the opening and not folded inside the opening.
15 Place the belt on the drum and thread the belt through the tensioner and around the motor pulley.
16 Position the front cover on the lower clips on each of the sides.
17 Re-attach the 2 wires for the cover switch.
18 Pull the drum up so the opening on the drum and front cover align.
19 Screw together the side panels to the front panel using the 2 hex headed screws.
20 Check for binds by rotating the drum several times by hand.
21 Press the front of the top panel down toward the front panel to engage the plastic clips attaching the top to the front. Watch for the lint filter housing alignment as you push the top panel down.
22 Replace the 2 screws to attach the lint filter to the top cover.
23 Plug in machine and test.

Good luck, It s not as bad as it sounds.
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The dryer would start to heat then the heat would stop
58 of 70 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Theodore from Riverside, CA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench set
I changed out the cycling thermostat and the high limit thermostat. Mainly because that was what my research indicated was the problem. I then found some more information online that indicated the gas solenoid valves were bad. I ordered them from you and replaced them. The problem was fixed.

In order to replace the valves you need to remove the top panel. Two screws at the top of the front door assembly hold it on. Remove the screws, lift up on the front panel door assembly and move it to the side. The drum will rest in place. In the lower left corner, under the drum, you will see the solenoids. Two screws attach a plate that holds down the solenoids. Take the hold down plate off, disconnect the control wires attached to the solenoids and lift out the solenoid/control valves. To assemble everything, work backwards to the start. Good Luck
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dryer would get hot for a while, then quit heating
56 of 70 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Sharon from Houston, TX
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
After reading about other people with this same problem I took a chance that this would be what was wrong with my dryer.I took off the front cover of the dryer by removing two screws. I located the faulty coils and simply plugged in the 2 new coils Tah-dah Probably coud have been done without even removing the front panel, but since it was off I vacuumed out the lint ( actually my husband did all of the above, but I tell a better tale than he does and I diagnosed the problem and ordered theparts)
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Our dryer started squealing and would then stop running.
55 of 69 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Kelly from Aptos, CA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Wrench (Adjustable)
After determining that the dryer motor was the issue I wrote down the part number and logged on to partselect.com.

I input the number into the search box and there was the exact motor I needed.

The price was fair and the delivery quick so I figured I would give yuo guys a shot and see how it goes.

The par t showed up on time and as expected. It was well packed and most importantly - it was the CORRECT part.

I disassembled the dryer which involved removing the lint trap, pulling out the blower fan and removing the motor cover. The motor was held in with 2 metal screws and wiring harness.

I took the belt off of the tensioner and pulled out the old motor. The motor was mounted with 2 clips which snapped off with ease. Reassembly was a breeze since the motor fit perfectly- the entire transplant operation took all of about 35 minutes.

I crossed my fingers, turned on the gas, plugged it in and........SUCCESS!

Since the dryer was down for over a week the backlog of laundry was piled pretty high. This replacement motor would immediately be put to the test.

It has been 5 days of non-stop drying and no squeeks, no squeels and nothing but dry clothes!

Thanks to Part Select for getting everything right the first time. It made a potentially very bad experience turn out as good as I could have ever hoped.
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the dryer only blew cold air
48 of 52 people found this instruction helpful.
  • charles from waukesha, WI
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
actually i found your site before i even looked at the dryer,thats how i knew to check for the thermal fuse.
I ordered the part and it was on my door in 36
hours,pulled the two wires off the old fuse and installed the new,put the back cover on and it has been working ever since,thanks ( your in my bookmarks)
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Dryer motor would not turn on
51 of 69 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Bluffton, SC
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Wrench set
After looking at the schematic to see what was in line with the motor, I found the fuse as the first item. I pulled the fuse out and used a multimeter to ohm out the fuse. Upon using the meter I found that the fuse was bad. I typed into Google my part number that was on the fuse and the PartSelect Website came up as one of the choices to pick from. When the part arrived approx. two days later I installed the fuse by first unplugging the dryer and then removing the bottom panel and removing the fuse from the exhaust by using a small 1/4 inch wrench and pulling out the old fuse. I installed the wires on the new fuse and re-installed and put the 1/4 inch screw back in. I started the dryer after plugging it back in and it worked like it should have. Thank you for the part and I have recommended your website to other people already.
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Dryer wouldn't turn on
49 of 64 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Olive from Williamsburg, OH
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
Removed the back of the dryer taking off the screws. Found the disposable thermal fuse. Unplugged the 2 blue wires connected to it. Removed the screws holding the part in. Replaced the old part. Reattached the blue wires. Put the back on the dryer. And voila! That simple!
I'm a 39 year old woman with absolutely no patience fo r tedious jobs, but this was so easy I felt good about doing it. And felt even better for saving lots of money by doing the repair myself.
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TOb stopped turning after a week or so of high pitched "squeals" coming from inside the dryer.
43 of 48 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Robert from Princeton, WV
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I recommend you order the idler pulley as soon as you start to hear the unusual noise indicating metal against metal. Replace the idler pulley before it fails and possibly causes more damage to the drive system. Simply removed the power cord at the back of the dryer and then the multiple screws holding the back panel in place as well as the clip holding the exhaust vent in place. You may need to remove the top panel to access a few of these screws. A diagram of the belt routing is in the paperwork I found behind the front lower panel of the dryer. This too is easily removed with just a few screws.
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Gas Flame Would Drop Out
49 of 66 people found this instruction helpful.
  • FRED from BRIELLE, NJ
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
First it was a process of alimination to find out why it was dropping out. After the problem was found it was just a matter of replacing the holding coil on the gas valve. Thank you fred kenney sr
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No power
45 of 55 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Nick from Brandon, FL
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver
My 14 year old son did it as I supervised! Pulled the dryer out on a dolly, unpluged the dyer, removed 9 hex head screws to remove the back cover, removed and replaced the thermal fuse, located next to the exhust outlet, set the cover back on, moved the dryer back in with the dolly. I had the thermal fuse over nighted to me for a total price of $35, figured I saved at least $150 on a service call by Whirpool.
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Intermittent or no gas ignition, HSI ignightor working
43 of 50 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Steven from Sauk Village, IL
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Removed front of gas dryer and cleaned all lint out. Checked HSI, and cleaned flame sensor. Split (3 terminal) gas coil terminals were intermittent. Read about 700 ohms across outer two terminals, but center terminal to either outer terminal was open (Infiniti on meter) 2 terminal coil measured about 550 ohms. 3 terminal coil should read about 700 ohms across outer terminals, and about 1.5K ohms center to outer terminals. Unscrewed index cover plate and replaced coil, 2 terminal coil was okay. Reassembled and finished 12 loads of laundry no problems at all.
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Busted Belt & Pulley
43 of 51 people found this instruction helpful.
  • James from West Haven, CT
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I bought a belt from a store in my area- What a mistake...I found this site and read all the stories on how easy it was and how PartSelect.com had the parts in stock and had easy instructions...I put the idler pulley in place, put the belt in place (all from instructions included) and put the dryer back together (which was easy). I actua lly did it alone. I would recommend this company to anyone in need of their parts and help!
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Door would not stay shut
44 of 56 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jennifer from Davenport, IA
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Simply took door off, four screws. Laid on table top and removed several other screws to get to the inside. Removed latch and replaced. Replaced srews and put door back on. I'm sure I saved us a bunch on a service call. Oh did I mention I'm a mom with a 2 and a 4 year old running around while I did this repair. Back in business now.
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All Instructions for the 110970
31 - 45 of 1745